L130 - Sudden no crank, no headlights

[sgkent]

the OP is MIA on reporting since 4/21/2023.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I had a similar issue, it was a high resistance to battery ground, from negative battery cable to body of mower, looking at this ground appeared okay, but removed it and wirier brushed it, reattached and problem was fixed.

Yes. very common on older mowers.
Water wicks into the batery cables and eatsthe copper.
Ohm meters will read good , volt meters will read good but no current will pass down the cable .

 

[SamB]

Yes. very common on older mowers.
Water wicks into the batery cables and eatsthe copper.
Ohm meters will read good , volt meters will read good but no current will pass down the cable .

This has been my experience in the past also. The sudden demand on the corroded cables opens the connection and everything is dead. Clean or replace the cables before you do anything else.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I diagnose this by using jumper cables to bypass the battery cables

 

[boatmoter]

Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…

check fusible link at starter ,pull on it to see if it stretches,if it does,it's blown, the fusible link works all accessories and will not start the engine but the main battery cables will still get voltage at the starter but nothing else will work

 

[tempforce]

check the ign switch for voltage into the switch. turn switch on, check for voltage out of the switch. turn on lights, if voltage and no lights, may have broken wire or bad switch. if lights, check for power to coil. if power, hold tester to switch to starter relay or at relay turn switch to start, check + ign term while holding switch in start position. if no voltage, replace switch.

 

[boatmoter]

Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…

check fusible link at starter ,pull on it to see if it stretches,if it does,it's blown

Mower started and ran fine last week. 2 days ago I tried starting it again and absolutely nothing. No crank.. not even a click.. and no headlights. Checked battery voltage and it was 12.4V. Fuse checked good. Replaced ignition switch but no dice. Used a screwdriver on the two posts on the solenoid with the ignition in the run position and it sparked like crazy so it’s definitely getting juice.

I can’t figure out how the solenoid is getting juice but won’t crank… and how no headlights ties into all of it.

Ideas? Trying not to throw a bunch of money at parts that aren’t bad…

use a test light or volt meter and probe the B on the back of your ignition switch,it should have power there, but ground your test light to the engine block or starter mounting bolt to check engine ground at same time,if you do not have voltage,use test light to check both sides of the fuse F1 attached to the red wire

 

[bertsmobile1]

Do yourself a big favour and buy the JD technical manual for your mower.
I know this is against all US based religions but after you have finished mowing your yard with your repaired mower , go mow the Churches lawn for absolution from your sins

 

[Spectre332]

FYI: figured out the issue. The positive battery cable’s ear at the terminal was half broken, causing poor connection and ultimately (so it appears) arching (and melting) at one of the plastic connectors for the mower. While trying to figure out the issue, I touched the connector and it cranked off the key. Fiddled with it more and the problem went away when that connector was in a certain position.
Needless to say, new cable on order so once replaced, we should be good to go.

 

[SamB]

FYI: figured out the issue. The positive battery cable’s ear at the terminal was half broken, causing poor connection and ultimately (so it appears) arching (and melting) at one of the plastic connectors for the mower. While trying to figure out the issue, I touched the connector and it cranked off the key. Fiddled with it more and the problem went away when that connector was in a certain position.
Needless to say, new cable on order so once replaced, we should be good to go.

Always check the cables first before throwing parts at an "everything is dead" issue. OEM battery cables are not the best quality. Checking connections and cables will almost always be the culprit. Not always, but the place to start. I solder the eyelet terminals on my mower cables, I then apply a sleeve of adhesive lined heat shrink tubing to seal the eyelet to insulation joint Simply crimping the end on simply doesn't hold up in the real world of lawnmowers.