I can try... I mean.. at this point I'll try nearly anything. Though I don't thank that's going to be what the problem is... specifically because when I turn the key, I don't even get a click like you normally get when the solenoid engages the starter, so the starter isn't even attempting to turn the motor.
I hear what you are saying. Wondering if the needle and seat got you hydro-locked?
Actually now that I think about it... I know the starter is good because when I used a screwdriver between the two solenoid terminals, it did crank the engine. It almost has to be electrical... which is my least favorite thing to troubleshoot.
also just for giggles I would measure battery voltage with the lights on but it sounds like it will be Ok. Maybe a tad bit low but enough to turn the lights on.
In my experience over the years , ( cars, trucks ,etc ) you might have the recommended voltage at the battery, ( 12+ volts ) doesnt meant the battery is good, a load tester would tell you if the battery is bad, you might have the voltage there but not the amps to crank over the engine. I always put a battery maintainer on the battery over the winter months, but once spring arrives it kicks right over, however if you used it already, I'd say the battery is shot and cant be brought back to life but you can try to charge it up, A load tester will tell you right away if it's bad or good.
Probably, or obviously, a short of some kind. I had a similar problem with my Yard Man Tractor. After replacing every component, solenoid, starter, ignition switch, Neutral safety switch (you may want to check this) it turned out to be a corroded fuse holder. Sometimes it made contact, sometimes not. Go over everything carefully. Maybe try hot wiring the starter directly to the battery to see if it cranks over. If it does, it's somewhere in the wiring between the two. Good luck.
The poster claims he has no lights. the solenoid and safety switch has nothing to do with the lights.