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I have a mid-90's Woods 6200 zero turn that has run fine since I bought it three years ago.
After sitting all winter, it refused to start this spring. I have pretty much run out of ideas as to what to check/replace next.
Symptoms haven't changed from when I started troubleshooting and replacing parts two months ago,.
That is, it will only stay running if I continually spray gas into the carb.
I installed a new carburetor, fuel pump, fuel filter and new fuel lines, including the hose from crankcase to fuel pump.
I primed the pump/filter/lines full of gas all the way to the carb but engine stalls out as it's not drawing fuel from tank.
I removed the fuel pickup from gas tank and tried drawing gas from a bottle while spraying gas into carb to keep motor running and the fuel pump won't suck any gas from bottle either.
I have tightened oil filter and oil fill cap to make sure vacuum/pressure from crankcase (if there) is preserved,
as it appears that maybe none is being created to suck fuel from tank and send it to the carb.
It seems the last thing to check would be to compression test the line from crankcase to fuel pump
but could that even be the issue if the motor runs fine when i feed it gas manually?

Engine is a Kohler Command V-twin with a Keihin 24 053 32 carburetor.

Any suggestions as to my next step would be much appreciated.

Thanks

If you disconnect the fuel line between the carb and fuel pump and crank the engine does the fuel pump, pump fuel into a jar or other container. And does the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on and off.

ILENGINE said:

If you disconnect the fuel line between the carb and fuel pump and crank the engine does the fuel pump, pump fuel into a jar or other container. And does the fuel solenoid on the carb click when the key is turned on and off.

Click to expand...

No, not getting any fuel from pump when cranking.
I don't hear any clicking and I'm not sure where the fuel solenoid is on the carb. Is that controlled by the electrical wire that I disconnected/reconnected when replacing the carb?
Should I be checking a fuse somewhere since I'm not hearing any click?

Thanks

firhill said:

No, not getting any fuel from pump when cranking.
I don't hear any clicking and I'm not sure where the fuel solenoid is on the carb. Is that controlled by the electrical wire that I disconnected/reconnected when replacing the carb?
Should I be checking a fuse somewhere since I'm not hearing any click?

Thanks

Click to expand...

First issue is finding out why there is no fuel coming from the tank. Possibly debris stuck in the pickup tube. And the solenoid is connected to that wire that connected to the bullet connector. There should be battery voltage present with the key both in the start and run key positions, but make sure the other wire with the ring is connected to the top of the carb because it acts as the ground from the fuel solenoid. And checking fuses may not be a bad idea.

ILENGINE said:

First issue is finding out why there is no fuel coming from the tank. Possibly debris stuck in the pickup tube. And the solenoid is connected to that wire that connected to the bullet connector. There should be battery voltage present with the key both in the start and run key positions, but make sure the other wire with the ring is connected to the top of the carb because it acts as the ground from the fuel solenoid. And checking fuses may not be a bad idea.

Click to expand...

The pick-up tube is clear. I blew threw it before trying to draw fuel elsewhere.
I will start by checking the electrical/fuses/connections tomorrow and report back.
I don't recall any wire w/ring to connect on top of carb when I originally disconnected.
Just the single wire w/bullet connector you mentioned.
Thanks

That wire I am thinking about may just be on the vertical engines. If you have the metal intake manifold it may not have the grounding wire. If it is plastic there will be a secondary wire that connects to the carb to ground it.

Either way, I should still hear some sort of click from the carb area when I turn key to start/run position..correct?
I will check that first

firhill said:

Either way, I should still hear some sort of click from the carb area when I turn key to start/run position..correct?
I will check that first

Click to expand...

Hear the click from the carb, And can also put your hand on the solenoid and feel it click.

Hi firhill,

You need a 12V test light to check for power to the fuel after-fire solenoid wire, not all of the bowl solenoids click very loudly.

Next verify the lines were connected correctly to the fuel pump. It is easy to get them mixed up.

The line coming from the block to the pump only provides crankcase pulsation from the piston movement when the engine is cranked.

This diagram may help:

Thanks for the electrical wiring diagram link. I will go over it later tonight.

I replaced the fuel pump (Aluminum Block type) with one that looks almost identical.
The differences being the in and out connections in relation to the crankcase, carb and fuel in.

As for the actual ports, they are still located in the same 1/3 section of the block itself.
Fuel in on top, fuel out on bottom and line from crankcase to pulse diaphragm is in the middle.
Same as the old pump in that respect.

I will have to go hunt down a test light to check solenoid tomorrow.

Thanks again.

You can also disconnect the line on the carburetor and place the end of the line in a jar, plastic soda bottle or plastic cup (do not use a Styrofoam cup), then crank the engine to verify it is actually pumping fuel.

Watching the filter while cranking is not reliable, because they do not typically fill up with fuel. Once running at higher RPM, they filter may fill up eventually.

Can you attach a picture of your replacement pump as it is mounted?

Thanks for the electrical wiring diagram link. I will go over it later tonight.

I replaced the fuel pump (Aluminum Block type) with one that looks almost identical.
The differences being the in and out connections in relation to the crankcase, carb and fuel in.

As for the actual ports, they are still located in the same 1/3 section of the block itself.
Fuel in on top, fuel out on bottom and line from crankcase to pulse diaphragm is in the middle.
Same as the old pump in that respect.

I will have to go hunt down a test l

Sorry, I typed the wrong info above re: the fuel pump.

Both the fuel in and fuel out are in the middle portion of the block and the input to diaphragm from crankcase is on top 1/3 section.

Auto Doc's said:

You can also disconnect the line on the carburetor and place the end of the line in a jar, plastic soda bottle or plastic cup (do not use a Styrofoam cup), then crank the engine to verify it is actually pumping fuel.

Watching the filter while cranking is not reliable, because they do not typically fill up with fuel. Once running at higher RPM, they filter may fill up eventually.

Can you attach a picture of your replacement pump as it is mounted?

Click to expand...

I will take and post some pictures of what everything looks like later today.

I checked the bullet connector to the fuel solenoid and it clicks and registers 12v when I turn the key to ON position.
There is another connection on the opposite side of carb where the single wire attaches with a spade connector from above. The wire is green and inside a black sheath and it also changes from zero volts to 12V when key is turned to ON position.
You can see it to the left of carb in attached photos.

In going over the wiring diagram I wondered if the relay in the start circuit would cause a no fuel issue so I took apart the control panel and tried to take a picture or two of what’s in there.

There are four fuses on the side of that panel that are labeled LIGHT -PTO-START-REG and one of three 7.5A fuses is giving me an intermittent reading on the ohmmeter. I can’t tell what spot I pulled from as I took them all out at once. Anyway, I’m not sure if that would even be an issue but I will pick some fuses up later and replace that one.

I’ll attach all the photos I took in the hope there might be something there that will help solve.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone.

ETA……I’m trying to find a way to post the photos I took as I’m being told each of the uploaded IMG files is too large. I’ll keep working at it.

firhill said:

I checked the bullet connector to the fuel solenoid and it clicks and registers 12v when I turn the key to ON position.
There is another connection on the opposite side of carb where the single wire attaches with a spade connector from above. The wire is green and inside a black sheath and it also changes from zero volts to 12V when key is turned to ON position.
You can see it to the left of carb in attached photos.

In going over the wiring diagram I wondered if the relay in the start circuit would cause a no fuel issue so I took apart the control panel and tried to take a picture or two of what’s in there.

There are four fuses on the side of that panel that are labeled LIGHT -PTO-START-REG and one of three 7.5A fuses is giving me an intermittent reading on the ohmmeter. I can’t tell what spot I pulled from as I took them all out at once. Anyway, I’m not sure if that would even be an issue but I will pick some fuses up later and replace that one.

I’ll attach all the photos I took in the hope there might be something there that will help solve.

Thanks again for all the help from everyone.

ETA……I’m trying to find a way to post the photos I took as I’m being told each of the uploaded IMG files is too large. I’ll keep working at it.

Click to expand...

I think JPEG should work.

I tried cropping the pictures to see if that works.
Hopefully the relevant items are still in photos.

firhill said:

I checked the bullet connector to the fuel solenoid and it clicks and registers 12v when I turn the key to ON position.
There is another connection on the opposite side of carb where the single wire attaches with a spade connector from above. The wire is green and inside a black sheath and it also changes from zero volts to 12V when key is turned to ON position.
You can see it to the left of carb in attached photos.

Click to expand...

The green wire is connector to the oil pressure switch. Could have 12 volts with the key on due to it being on the ground side of the oil pressure light. Basically the oil pressure switch provides the ground to turn on the oil pressure light.

ILENGINE said:

The green wire is connector to the oil pressure switch. Could have 12 volts with the key on due to it being on the ground side of the oil pressure light. Basically the oil pressure switch provides the ground to turn on the oil pressure light.

Click to expand...

Doh. I should have known that. Thanks