Kohler 14hp K321S help

VegetiveSteam

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Turn both mixture adjustment screws in gently until they bottom out. Then back the idle screw out 2-1/2 turns and the high speed out 3-1/2 turns. Then fine tune from there as needed.
 

Chesterspal

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I think I have it, now.

More to do with points and plug gap than initial carb settings.

For this engine…

Points: .022

Plug: .023

Got me running strong. Fine tune as needed.

Then, I’ll install a virgin Autolite 216 plug.
 
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rgrottk

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Normally this problem is fuel related but run from anyone who tells you then can tell the difference by listening to the engine you HAVE to determine first if it is fuel or ignition try to eliminate spark first perhaps purchase a in line good spark tester and see if the spark changes when you have the issue, also I assume you have a fuel pump in the fuel circuit, these pumps are super pushers POOR pullers make sure you have good flow and no air leakage all the way to the pump from the tank (make sure pump connection and any in tank filter is clear) and change all the lines between. Hope this helps on mine once I had this solved I put in the line two check valves so that the lines stay primed and after the winter I blow in the tank to initially prime the line and then NO issues all summer. There are check valves in the pump but with age they leak back. Hope this helps.
 

Tiger Small Engine

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Normally this problem is fuel related but run from anyone who tells you then can tell the difference by listening to the engine you HAVE to determine first if it is fuel or ignition try to eliminate spark first perhaps purchase a in line good spark tester and see if the spark changes when you have the issue, also I assume you have a fuel pump in the fuel circuit, these pumps are super pushers POOR pullers make sure you have good flow and no air leakage all the way to the pump from the tank (make sure pump connection and any in tank filter is clear) and change all the lines between. Hope this helps on mine once I had this solved I put in the line two check valves so that the lines stay primed and after the winter I blow in the tank to initially prime the line and then NO issues all summer. There are check valves in the pump but with age they leak back. Hope this helps.
Bottom line is this:
Make sure you have strong consistent spark at all speeds with inline spark tester.
Make sure you have good, strong fuel flow to carburetor.
Make sure you have fresh fuel with not debris or water in it.
 

moparjoe

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At my wits end with this engine. Three weeks and still the same issues. Cannot keep it running w/o misfires, backfires, loss of power, stalling out.

I’m usually pretty good (with my machines) but this one has me stumped.

What I’ve replaced:

Carb
Points
Spark plug
Ignition wire (w/solid copper core)
Have new coil and will do that next

Played with the points. Book says .020”. Set anywhere from .022 to .015 with little difference. Seems a tad better with the smaller gaps.

I have a timing light but hard to see through the hole. Might remove cowling if you feel it will help me get this right.

Timing light is erratic when running. Coincides with the mis/back fires as you’d expect.

I think this is more to do with ignition, not fuel.

Suggestions?

Can post videos if this site will let me (?)

Thanks
Check the flywheel key.
 

g-man57

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Just a thought - check your valve settings. There's probably a YouTube video.
 

Tornadoman

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At my wits end with this engine. Three weeks and still the same issues. Cannot keep it running w/o misfires, backfires, loss of power, stalling out.

I’m usually pretty good (with my machines) but this one has me stumped.

What I’ve replaced:

Carb
Points
Spark plug
Ignition wire (w/solid copper core)
Have new coil and will do that next

Played with the points. Book says .020”. Set anywhere from .022 to .015 with little difference. Seems a tad better with the smaller gaps.

I have a timing light but hard to see through the hole. Might remove cowling if you feel it will help me get this right.

Timing light is erratic when running. Coincides with the mis/back fires as you’d expect.

I think this is more to do with ignition, not fuel.

Suggestions?

Can post videos if this site will let me (?)

Thanks
Years ago I had a similar problem with a Briggs and after much head scratching and consternation I discovered the flywheel key had sheared, causing the timing to be thrown way off.
 

VRR.DYNDNS>BIZ

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An inline detection of the coil / plug will most likely show a missfire. Now to find the cause. is it the plug - try another new one. inline at output of coil to high tension lead - replace wire if not seen coming out of coil. If seen missing coming out of coil _ dada - replace coil.
 
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