Keeps running but won't start when pulling the cord.

BlufftonJim said:
It will start if I spray carb cleaner in the carb and pull the cord. And, it will continue to run fine until I turn it off.
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I
JC, If u take out the air filter do u see a brass "flap"(the choke) closed or is it open? I ask because pictures of the model that come up(http://newhavenpower.com/Toro20333.html) have the briggs engine which might have the auto choke that is instead stuck open making it not choke to start normally thus your problem.
 
Rivets said:
Sometimes it looks like the bolt gasket is leaking, but it is really the bowl gasket. Put a light coat of grease on the gasket before installing to make sure it slides on smoothly.
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Hello Rivet! I will give that a try.
upupandaway said:
I
JC, If u take out the air filter do u see a brass "flap"(the choke) closed or is it open? I ask because pictures of the model that come up(http://newhavenpower.com/Toro20333.html) have the briggs engine which might have the auto choke that is instead stuck open making it not choke to start normally thus your problem.
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I will check that. I also need to opinions on the air vane spring. I never found one. Is it missing, or does this engine have one?
 
I removed the carb, added a little grease to the bowl, added the bowl bolt, reinstalled the carb, and...it still leaked. But, I cranked the bolt a little more tight, and it stopped! The air vane spring did not come. Delivery was delayed until tomorrow.
 
The air vane spring arrived today. I put in on and that did not fix the issue. When this began, I could start the mower with carb cleaner sprayed in the carb, and it would keep running, but would not start pulling the rope, even after the engine was warm.

Now, the carb is completely rebuilt, new spark plug, and will still only start with help from carb cleaner, but now will NOT keep running.

Time to dump this thing?
 
Is this what you installed? On the far right is the silver tstat lever inside the U of the air vane. The front of the lever should be inside the front set of 2 lines and side set of 2 lines. (This one is off - too far back.) On the left is the air vane spring.

IMG_20200404_153027966.jpg
 
Gas leaks are kinda tricky sometimes because of the way it flows, in my experience, gas leaking from anything from the fuel line to the needle and seat to the upper or lower o-ring/seal all look similar. If the bowl nut washer is leaking and you got a new one from the kit, try putting the old one back lol.
 
TylerFrankel1 said:
Gas leaks are kinda tricky sometimes because of the way it flows, in my experience, gas leaking from anything from the fuel line to the needle and seat to the upper or lower o-ring/seal all look similar. If the bowl nut washer is leaking and you got a new one from the kit, try putting the old one back lol.
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Oh, I stopped the gas leak. Then I received the air vane spring, put it on, and same problem, except it won't even keep running now.
 
You need to pull the blower housing and inspect the silver Tstat wand. The location inside the air vane U is important. Youtube video -
 
Follow along with this video you might find it quite helpful. Taryl uses made up words sometimes but this video is very thorough and the mower he is repairing had a similar issue to yours.
 
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