Pressure moving past the rings will always push compression into the pan, thus it is trying to escape thru the venting tube. One thing you can do to make an engine make both more torque and more horse power, not to mention easier revolutions per minute is to run your vent tube to the exhaust with an anti-blowback valve from a late 70s to early 90s Ford exhaust.
I began doing that in the mid eighties on my race engines and the dyno would show from 1 to 4 percent horsepower increase across the rpm ranges. Torque would increase on the bottom end (where a lawnmower engine operates) about 4 percent from 1750 to 5500 rpm. High end of the revs would make it up to low tens with the 3 inch stroke engines and upper nines with the 3 1/2 inch stroke engines.
That is huge numbers by only adding two valves and never used a new valve. Cost, free, adding a pair of 3/4 inch long 90 degree metal tubes, used materials, cost, free, 8 feet of 3/4 inch water hose, $2.40. Labor, what's that? We're going racing.
At any length, you can vent your valve cover to your exhaust which causes a low pressure (negative pressure) in the oil pan. It would take you a short time and a bit of fabrication and that would pay for itself in a short while.
If you have smoke after adding the venting system, you be got ring problems for sure. Follow all advice previously given by Bert for the freshen up and the venting system will be in place and paying you in gasoline savings.
How's that for learning some techie stuff on a Tuesday?
