JD L111 Won't Start

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Many thanks to all that have provided help. I finally located the carburettor. But, it is an undertaking beyond my ability to work on.

Therefore, in the name of advancing tratorship and brotherhood, may I ask any reference or volunteer to come by to teach me. I am located in 91748. I am ready to offer a charcoaled ribeye steak, plus a dutchoven-charcoaled cornbread and .... A Saturday is good.

This is my hearty invitation, as always,

Wow what a great offer for some help............ I love steak and Cornbread also... In the south that's a staple down here ~!~!..

I'm gonna hook you up with some good video links...

Here's 1 link.. It does not show how to get the carb off, but it's a rebuild vid.... When you get on his channel you will see part 2 or the reassemble of it.......

https://youtu.be/I_k1ystbSWs....


Ok here is another link but it shows the carb on the engine. Not how to take it off...

https://youtu.be/H9GObEkn3l4


Ok here is a link to getting the carb off... Go to 2:43 and that's how to get the carb off....

DO NOT take all the control cables off like he does earlier in the video...

I don't know if you have the single jet carb or the dual jet carb, but this will get you a good start .....

Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!


https://youtu.be/nNGU-7YRVuI
 
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stonemind

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...
Wow what a great offer for some help............
Let us know Mon Ami ~!~!
...

I was deeply touched by your care and support. I studied twice all the youtube clips you recommend. The last one pools almost identical to my carb with 2 plugs. I attempted to work on my unit. I failed. They were too many nuts and bolts to be removed. It is indeed a formidable task for me. If no one claims my steak and cornbread by Saturday, I may have to schlep my tractor to a JD service shop, because the grass has grown out of control for weeks now.

I am still hopeful that the miracle might happen.

Cheers and many thanks,
 

stonemind

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Hi, allow me to bother you with one more question. What numbers of feeler should I use for the intake and exhaust valves? The clip says 4000. Right?

Thanks,
 

stonemind

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...
I go with 4 thousands or 5 I prefer 4
....

Hi, I bought the feeler gauge from Home Depot and the thinnest is 0.005. So I plan to use 0.005 for the exhaust at the top, and 0.007 for the intake at the bottom.

However, upon opening, I discovered neither has any gap, contrary to the ones seen on youtube, i.e, too much space.
I haven't opened the other one-which I believe should be the same.

Are the gapless situation for the valves consistent with my problem? --Unable to start, although cranking.

Can I go ahead rectifying the situation by giving the valves the gaps of 0.005 and 0.007, as may be the case?

Please advise. Many thanks,
 

bertsmobile1

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it is a 4 stroke turn the engine through 2 full revolutions and check the gaps when the piston is at the top,
On the exhause stroke the exhaust valve will be closing and the inlet will be opening so there will be no gap on either valve.
 

stonemind

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it is a 4 stroke turn the engine through 2 full revolutions...

Hi, following your instructions, I re-adjusted the two valves that were off. In the end, however, the engine is still cranking, but won't start. Again, after putting back the plugs, the crank became weaken a lot, as before. In other words, the same problems persist without any improvement.

My son and I are exhausted now. Since no one appears to claim the ribeye steaks or the cornbread, we have decided to claim them ourselves, notwithstanding the feeling of enormous guilt.

After the guilty lunch, we plan to schlep the tractor to a local service center....

Is there any further advice or suggestion to help redeem myself?
 

bertsmobile1

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Way back in post 4 you were asked to do a series of tests.
Tests are important because from the results of them we can diagnose your problem, or at least eliminate some potential problems.
When you go to the doctor they listens to what you tell them , then from what has been said perform a fairly well set of tests.

These are what you were asked to do back in post 4.
Things got a little mixed up and you either ignored the post or just lost it in all the talk about cornbread.
Bou tells me the spark y=tester I mentioned is a Oregon one and availabe on Amazon for $ 15 with free postage.
The can of carb cleaner comes from any auto parts store or most hardwear stores.

For some problem there id only one real solution so when the poster says A , B & C s happening then we can tell him with great authority to do X,Y & Z and his mower will properly

No start situations are a pain in the butt because there are way too many variables so we have to use a system to isolate the problem as it could be in the valves , the carb , the timing the cylinder integrity, the fuel delivery.
Thus a set of tests allows a mower doctor to eliminate some of them and after that a different set of test eliminates even more till only the guilty party is left.

"My mower wont start" is the most common phrase I hear in the shop followed closely by "too dear I can get a new one at ( insert the name of your favourite junk merchant ) for only a little more " , the latter showing me that in 60,000 year people have learned nothing.
Because a no-start is the most common problem for me & just about every other mower shop, we all have a set of tests we do to reduce the time & thus the cost to avoid hearing the 2nd most common phrase.

The proceedures I use , and others have their own set originated from playing with 100 year old motorcycles but they work equally well with any engine that is not fuel injected which is why I asked you to do them.

From my involvement with charity work I have learned that the "teach a man to fish" approach is much better than the "give a man a fish" one so in Post # 4 I was attempting to teach you to fish foe mower problems.
To fish, you need a line, hook & bait, to fish for mower problems you need a spark tester and can of carb cleaner.
 
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