Jb weld extreme heat paste

750F is not high for an exhaust under load, but melting steel as you described is. Personally, I do not know of any epoxy that will maintain strength at the temperature you need it to. Add to that, it has to maintain bonding on a deteriorated surface that vibrates, and expands and contracts too. Last time I checked, a tube of High Temp JB weld lists 550F as the top sustained temperature - and is around $9. A couple tubes would buy a new muffler. The metal paste is listed to 1000F but it is not an epoxy. There are some companieslike JB Weld that use sodium silicate as a bonding agent at high temp. It doesn't tolerate vibration well. or moisture. Pepboys used to sell it 50 years ago to patch mufflers. Sometimes it would come with a fiberglass patch. Never worked for me because the surface it had to adhere to was already compromised. That said, I was not wanting to get into that debate but rather just shed light on why a standard non-catalytic exhaust system might overheat, in hopes of preventing it from happening again, or if a year from now someone is reading this thread looking for a solution to why their exhaust is glowing bright cherry red. I am of the opinion that the cost of the sodium silicate would be better put on a new muffler. I hope your fix lasts a long time. Keep it dry.
 
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sgkent said:
750F is not high for an exhaust under load, but melting steel as you described is. Personally, I do not know of any epoxy that will maintain strength at the temperature you need it to. Add to that, it has to maintain bonding on a deteriorated surface that vibrates, and expands and contracts too. Last time I checked, a tube of High Temp JB weld lists 550F as the top sustained temperature - and is around $9. A couple tubes would buy a new muffler. The metal paste is listed to 1000F but it is not an epoxy. There are some companieslike JB Weld that use sodium silicate as a bonding agent at high temp. It doesn't tolerate vibration well. or moisture. Pepboys used to sell it 50 years ago to patch mufflers. Sometimes it would come with a fiberglass patch. Never worked for me because the surface it had to adhere to was already compromised. That said, I was not wanting to get into that debate but rather just shed light on why a standard non-catalytic exhaust system might overheat, in hopes of preventing it from happening again, or if a year from now someone is reading this thread looking for a solution to why their exhaust is glowing bright cherry red. I am of the opinion that the cost of the sodium silicate would be better put on a new muffler. I hope your fix lasts a long time. Keep it dry.
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Okay thanks I see what you're saying I mean so I use the metal paste it's on no it's on that flange area for the muffler I'm just going to run it see what happens the worst thing is it gets a little louder and then I say okay I'm just going to get off regular replacement exhaust pipe and muffler but I do get what you're saying right now it's it's better than the way it was and see how long it lasts.

Jim
 
MParr said:
Straight pipes sound cool.
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This is actually very funny so I asked one of these AI agents that if I changed Husqvarna muffler with some alternatives and it said if you use that kind of muffler you probably light your hood on fire, so thanks for the idea but I already thought of it.
 
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JimP2014 said:
So for my machine which is an lt2000 Craftsman it calls for a Husqvarna muffler system so what I did was I bought the JB weld extreme heat paste supposedly it goes up to 1000° f I have no idea what's going to happen I just applied it this morning I'm probably going to wait at least 24 hours but it does apply very easily + hopefully this reduces muffler noise maybe others have had this and it works or it doesn't work I don't know but I'm hoping it will work.

Jim
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Weld ‘er up for permanent repair.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
Weld ‘er up for permanent repair.
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If you were doing this what equipment would I need? Also what would type of welding is this called, to look up training videos? For both questions can you please be specific. You don't have to name an exact product, but if I was looking at Harbor Freight ( 15 mins from where I live ) what type of welding equipment? I only know how to use a soldering iron for lead around copper pipes and that is it. I have used Mapp gas similar to a propane cylinder years ago but maybe this is not what I need?

Thanks,
Jim
 
A simple wire type welder and the skills that are needed. I do weld up mufflers but when I first started they were terrible to do and ugly as heck. I still prefer ACE/Ox welding for thin metals; although, the welding rods for it is NLA now but getting better with the wire welder every time I use it over the last 20 yrs.

And got to remember to watch out for burn throughs cause by rust outs.
 
StarTech said:
A simple wire type welder and the skills that are needed. I do weld up mufflers but when I first started they were terrible to do and ugly as heck. I still prefer ACE/Ox welding for thin metals; although, the welding rods for it is NLA now but getting better with the wire welder every time I use it over the last 20 yrs.

And got to remember to watch out for burn throughs cause by rust outs.
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Thanks StarTech I don't understand what you are saying but will this, "TITANIUM Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder" allow me to weld the exhaust pipe/muffler back together? This seems all AC so no gas cylinders needed?

This might help more:
 
JimP2014 said:
Thanks StarTech I don't understand what you are saying but will this, "TITANIUM Easy-Flux 125 Amp Welder" allow me to weld the exhaust pipe/muffler back together? This seems all AC so no gas cylinders needed?

This might help more:
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This is not about spending 200$+ to get this muffler to work, it is about learning and making use of this equipment for other things too!
 
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