Engine Interesting work around for Starting failure

DAMatson said:
Good afternoon All,

I'll need to track down some thicker gauge wire to create that ground strap for that 4th pole on the Solenoid, I'll try to get that handled this weekend.

Based on what I've been able to read-up on PTO (Power Take Off), it's normally a gear or rotor that transfers power from the engine to an attachment, and while I can picture that on any other tractor, I can't think of where such a thing is on my tractor, other than the mower deck, and that is pulley/belt driven, and activated/deactivated by a physical lever, so now I'm even more confused about the PTO being an actual switch.

Forgive my ignorance here, but what is a PTO SWITCH, and where would it come into play in my equation?

-David
Click to expand...

Dave you only need a piece of 12 or 14 guage wire, for the extra solenoid "ground wire" .. I attached mine to my throttle bracket assy.

DSCN2494 (Medium).jpg
 
Electric PTO normally drives a belt to whatever needs power. Electric PTO is attached to the crankshaft of the engine. PTO looks like this.
PYO.jpg
 
Good evening all,

20180331_191154.jpg

I don't think that there is an Electrical PTO Switch in my case, because I took the earlier advice and followed the orange wire going from the Ignition Switch Starter (S) Pin through the wiring harness (without taking the harness apart btw) and it went directly to the small Solenoid pole (labeled "to Ignition Switch (S) terminal" in my picture). To prove this, I checked for continuity between the Solenoid Pole and the wiring quick-connect clip that plugs all leads into the Ignition Switch, and confirmed good continuity between those two points, so it appears to me that I do not have a connection going from Starter Pin through a Parking Brake and PTO Switch to the Solenoid. Looks like a "straight shot" to me...

If that is the case, I suspect that I didn't have good results on my earlier test because I think my test lead probes didn't have a good connection when I was attempting to measure voltage earlier.

I shall get the 12 or 14 Gauge wire and craft a strap tomorrow after the family Easter Egg hunt. I've already got a good spot on the frame that I've removed the paint to reveal bare metal where I screw in a new bolt. If after installing that strap, the Solenoid still fails to show Voltage on the Starter side Terminal on the existing Solenoid when key moved to "Start" position, then it sounds to me like the Solenoid will have now been confirmed as defective.

I'll then order a replacement automotive starter solenoid, like a Ford replacement as discussed previously.

Thank you all for taking the time to educate me on these finer topics, it is greatly appreciated!

-David
 
So, after crafting and attaching a new ground strap on the old Solenoid 4th pole, still saw no change, it was still stuck in the "off" position. Got a replacement solenoid and now it appears that all of the starter problems have gone away.

Thank you all for your time and assistance! It has all truly been a great help in troubleshooting these electrical problems!

-David
 
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