intek 20HP 31p977 0575 E1

Thread the bolt in a ways, but not to snug the pulley back to the shaft. Your goal is just to get it to start moving.
Once you get it moving, unthread the bolt. You must thread it in a fair bit, otherwise you will booger up your threads.
 
2ball said:
This thing is a bear.

Lets take a step back. I just want to make sure we are talking about the same thing.

I have a Milwaukee electric impact driver. The mid level one.

I'm supposed to put the bolt, with out the lock washer, back in the driveshaft (the bolt holds on the drive pulley).

I'm going to impact that tight while prying down on the pulley with a pry bar?

Does that sound right?

Is it the hammering of the impact and the prying that gets it loose?
Click to expand...
No i am not talking about an impact wrench. I am talking about an air hammer also called an air chisel. Usually there is a washer on the bolt that holds the pulley on and if you leave it off the pulley will come off over the bolt head. The air hammer is applied to the head of the bolt.
 
I use an air hammer or chisel if you like
An Allan headed cap bolt goes into the end of the crank to protect the crank
Then some leverage is applied to the crankshaft.
If the engine is out then the engine gets turned upside down and supported by the pulley while I hammer on the end of the crank
If the engine is in the frame then the pulley is wedged to put a pulling load on it and again I lay into it with the air hammer.
The wedging can be tyre irons, machine jacks wrecking bars or tree felling wedges .
When using the air hammer you press as hard as you can on the hammer then hit the trigger.
The 20,000 + tiny whacks from the pistons jerk the pulley off by pushing the crank back.
Now the crank only has about .030" end float which is why you use the wedges and as the pulley moves you continually put more weight on the pulley .
In the early days stack pulleys were cast iron so you could pull on them quite hard.
Now days they are thin steel so if you put any force on the pulley wheels you will bend them beyond use .
Thus you have to use some thing that bears against the pulley shaft which is why I first suggested using a wrecking bar.
Ball joint splitters will also work, but their angle is a bit on the steep side unless you bu a really good ( expensive ) one.
And take heed of your agony right now so when replacing the pulley polish the crankshaft then apply liberal amounts of anti sieze ( not grease )
 
Thanks for the tips so far.

This thing may beat me! I still cant get it off.
I do not have an air hammer. I'm trying to stir one up.
If I was positive I would be replacing the engine, I would just cut the crank shaft off.

I cant remove the engine without removing the drive pulley. I can't get good leverage where its at now.

I'm taking a break, drinking a beer and will look at it tomorrow.
 
Nope...
The method i use to remove rusted pulleys/parts is to heat them up cherry red, then quinch it with cold water...

Air hammer would definently do the trick.
 
Ok, so I found a buddy who has air tools I'm going to just swing it over there and take the stuck drive pulley off.
When I am loading it up, I see a hole in the side of the engine.

So that engine is beyond repair.

My choices are new engine $600
or
I found a used engine for $250

What are everyone's thoughts on used engines?
 
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