Intec 12.5 Vertical

[Knots]

I have a Briggs 12.5 hp vertical engine model number 219802, type 0117E1.
It is dripping oil out of breather on fuel pump when running. Also, if you loosen the dipstick cap while running it dances around wildly.
Engine has low hour’s and runs ok. No fuel in oil.
I suspect a blown head gasket but would like advice from an expert.
If it is likely a head gasket issue, is the Briggs
796189 the set I need?

Thank you,
Knots

 

[Rivets]

Sounds to me like a blown head gasket. Yes, you have the correct number for the head kit.

 

[Knots]

When replacing head gasket on Briggs single cylinder engines, should the gasket go on dry or with some kind of sealant like Copperkote ?

 

[artemjemmy]

When replacing head gasket on Briggs single cylinder engines, should the gasket go on dry or with some kind of sealant like Copperkote ?

Nope. I have never used that before and I don't think briggs recommends any sealants. Before we do call it on the head gasket though, did you make sure it isn't just overfilled with oil or something simple? Typically blown head gaskets will cause engine smoking and there will be fumes coming out of the dipstick if you take it out after the engine has been running for a while.

 

[Rivets]

Always install head gaskets dry. After torquing head bolts to specs, run engine for 5 minutes and then recheck the torque. In the OP’s first post he said the oil had no fuel in it.

 

[artemjemmy]

Always install head gaskets dry. After torquing head bolts to specs, run engine for 5 minutes and then recheck the torque. In the OP’s first post he said the oil had no fuel in it.

does briggs recommend retorquing? I have never done that before, although I do typically overtorque their specs because I feel they are too small, I will usually do something like 25 ft lbs when they call for 220 in lbs

 

[bertsmobile1]

It is a hang over from the solid copper gasket days that settle a bit particularly if they were not full soft before use .
And if it is not the gasket it can only really be the breather being blocked or stuck closed
However compared to leaking head gaskets , failed breathers are quite rare .

 

[artemjemmy]

It is a hang over from the solid copper gasket days that settle a bit particularly if they were not full soft before use .
And if it is not the gasket it can only really be the breather being blocked or stuck closed
However compared to leaking head gaskets , failed breathers are quite rare .

What about a bad or a broken ring? Or scored cylinder walls? I've seen a few weird cases where the engine has compression to run but has terrible blow-by

 

[StarTech]

Typically blown head gaskets will cause engine smoking and there will be fumes coming out of the dipstick if you take it out after the engine has been running for a while.

Here this particular gasket design doesn't present itself as smoker most times here in my shop. I had one engine that burned one quart per 1/2 gallon of fuel and the only thing that was apparent while mowing was a smell of oil burning. Many modern oils don't smoke near as much as older oils did either. Most times the only indication of a blown head gasket is loss of oil volume and oil present in the air cleaner side of the carburetor. Now the fuel pump vent does sometimes have oil leaking out of it too.

Any engine using this particular gasket design that comes into my shop for the first time get a leak down test done to check the head gasket condition.

This particular head gasket design to prone to blowing between the cylinder and the push rod galley. While replacing head gasket make sure the head is not warped.

Also torque the head screws [bolts] to 20.8 fl/lbs [250 in/lbs] using three step torque method [1/3, 2/3, and Full] and in the proper torquing pattern [see below image]. This is the current torque specs for these gaskets and not what the chart says that is being passed around that specs 18.3 ft/lbs [220 in/lbs]. By going to 25 ft/lbs you risk aluminum thread pull out when the engine reaches full operating temperature. Also going to full torque all at once risks warping the head. Heads are not cheap. This head was $212 the last time I checked.



Valve clearance is .004-.006" for both intake and exhaust rockers. Rocker Jam Nut or set screw torqued 45 lb-in. Rocker cover screws [bolts] are torque to 65 in/lbs. Note some of these covers are mounted with RTV instead of a paper gasket. Both ways are acceptable. It just that RTV is less likely to leak when applied properly.

Personally I use the RTV method but I have the surface prep / accelerator chemical and know not to allow oil contact for at least 12 hrs. Also when the RTV is applied, screws are only tighten finger tight for at least 12 hrs, then the rocker cover is torque to final torque. I know it time consuming but it is what works here for leak proof application. The 30 minutes cure time on the product tube just don't work in a near airless application. Even at 12 hrs some uncured liquid squeeze out happens.

 

[Knots]

Here this particular gasket design doesn't present itself as smoker most times here in my shop. I had one engine that burned one quart per 1/2 gallon of fuel and the only thing that was apparent while mowing was a smell of oil burning. Many modern oils don't smoke near as much as older oils did either. Most times the only indication of a blown head gasket is loss of oil volume and oil present in the air cleaner side of the carburetor. Now the fuel pump vent does sometimes have oil leaking out of it too.

Any engine using this particular gasket design that comes into my shop for the first time get a leak down test done to check the head gasket condition.

This particular head gasket design to prone to blowing between the cylinder and the push rod galley. While replacing head gasket make sure the head is not warped.

Also torque the head screws [bolts] to 20.8 fl/lbs [250 in/lbs] using three step torque method [1/3, 2/3, and Full] and in the proper torquing pattern [see below image]. This is the current torque specs for these gaskets and not what the chart says that is being passed around that specs 18.3 ft/lbs [220 in/lbs]. By going to 25 ft/lbs you risk aluminum thread pull out when the engine reaches full operating temperature. Also going to full torque all at once risks warping the head. Heads are not cheap. This head was $212 the last time I checked.

View attachment 59190

Valve clearance is .004-.006" for both intake and exhaust rockers. Rocker Jam Nut or set screw torqued 45 lb-in. Rocker cover screws [bolts] are torque to 65 in/lbs. Note some of these covers are mounted with RTV instead of a paper gasket. Both ways are acceptable. It just that RTV is less likely to leak when applied properly.

Personally I use the RTV method but I have the surface prep / accelerator chemical and know not to allow oil contact for at least 12 hrs. Also when the RTV is applied, screws are only tighten finger tight for at least 12 hrs, then the rocker cover is torque to final torque. I know it time consuming but it is what works here for leak proof application. The 30 minutes cure time on the product tube just don't work in a near airless application. Even at 12 hrs some uncured liquid squeeze out happens.