hydro pump seal

ILENGINE said:
The truth is most repair shops are not qualified to be called a repair shop. Dealers will replace crankshaft seals in engines and tear down engines to replace camshafts, governor gears, and leaking sumps on engines, but won't even replace the input shaft seal on a hydro. To them if it is leaking then , it has to be replaced.

And most of the time a hydro rebuild isn't more labor intensive then replacing the drive belt on some riders. I have done 3 charge pump replacements due to the leaking/warping aluminum charge pump covers on hydro-gear, and did a replacement input shaft and seal on a hydro-gear pump due to a failing bearing just this year.

I have rebuilt several z turn and rider style hydros in both hydro-gear and the k46 through k71 tuff-torq. Including rebuilding hydro-gear units under warranty. I'm sorry but if a shop isn't willing or able to do a hydrostat repair then they need to close their doors, because they are not qualified to call themselves a repair shop. I bet those same shops wouldn't be able to spend 5 hours removing and replacing an engine due to a faulty ignition module, or 4 hours to remove and replace an engine for a simple carb rebuild.
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I have rebuilt transaxles and hydro pumps in the past also. Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. Try doing this repair when you are a one person shop, you are 3 weeks out, the phone is ringing and customers are coming in throughout the day, and you do every single task from sweeping the floor to fixing it.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
I have rebuilt transaxles and hydro pumps in the past also. Just because you can, doesn’t mean you should. Try doing this repair when you are a one person shop, you are 3 weeks out, the phone is ringing and customers are coming in throughout the day, and you do every single task from sweeping the floor to fixing it.
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Been doing it for 28 years now. One person shop running the entire show. If a shop doesn't want to do a hydro rebuild that is fine, but it has gotten to the point were they won't even fix an simple oil leak that doesn't even require removing the hydro.
 
ILENGINE said:
Been doing it for 28 years now. One person shop running the entire show. If a shop doesn't want to do a hydro rebuild that is fine, but it has gotten to the point were they won't even fix an simple oil leak that doesn't even require removing the hydro.
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But they prefer just renting beer then flush it.....

I just had a customer so cheap he would even pay for a fuse. If he is that cheap he don't need my services so he just got his butt barred.
 
jake1369 said:
Hello I have a 2004 727k2 and my fan shaft seal on the hydro pump is leaking bad. Any one know how to change it? No one around here will work on it. It seems to be coming apart looks like a plastic trash bag wrapped around the shaft. I didn't realize It was part of the seal until I started pulling it off the shaft then it really started leaking.
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Read and learn.....


You should have a PR series....should be some ID on the pump.....
 
Okay the seal I bought was the correct seal,

Fan Shaft Seal, for Specific FrontMount Models OEM 125165​

I was able to change it with the pump still on the machine. Just had to remove the fan.
Thanks for all the help, Now if I could only figure out why it almost dies every time I go up hill, I have to turn across or down to keep it running
 
jake1369 said:
Okay the seal I bought was the correct seal,

Fan Shaft Seal, for Specific FrontMount Models OEM 125165​

I was able to change it with the pump still on the machine. Just had to remove the fan.
Thanks for all the help, Now if I could only figure out why it almost dies every time I go up hill, I have to turn across or down to keep it running
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Looking at your tank placement the fuel supply comes out of the top of the tank which means the pump has to pull the fuel all the way from the bottom....and it appears to be a significant distance. Two solutions....new vacuum pulse fuel pump and see if that helps or a 12v solid state fuel pump with a regulator that reduces fuel pressure to 1 to 2 psi. Doesn't take much. There is a third option...plumb the fuel supply into the bottom of the tank and let the fuel head pressure do most of the work.
 
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