hydro gear 618-0249

[phred101]

What service should I do on this kind of drive, just bought a Huskee 20 hp with a 50" deck, everything runs fine and would like to keep it that way thanks for any reply

 

[totallymopar]

I have the very same model,Huskee Premier, 50" deck,20HP B &S Industrial/Commercial twin cyl. engine.HUGE rear tires(21"dia. 13" rims)very rugged,built heavy,with the Hydro-Gear 618 0249 transaxle.Looking for the same info-I don't think the trans fluid has ever been changed in 30 years.I found a can of 20W-50 Hydrostatic fluid at TSC for Bad Boy mowers,so I took a peek under one of the Bad Boys.Lo and behold-they use HydroGear trannies.So I'm thinking,although it was a zero-turn I was looking at,that the fluid for the Z-turn HydroGear would be the proper one for my 30-year-old 618,is it not? So I probably need to refill and purge it. Also,didn't the 618 have a reserve tank mounted somewhere? There is a fitting coming out of the top of the case, behind the pulley,with a long hose attached to it,that someone just plugged with a bolt.Shouldn't this be connected to a vented tank mounted somewhere,either on the unit,or the mower chassis? Do you have a small tank somewhere on yours,near the axle? Usually mounted on the rear panel,under the seat somewhere?

 

[StarTech]

These are considered sealed unit and normally the fluid never needs changing but here is the oil change info if you wish to remove the transaxle to do it as you need to disassemble to change the filter.

 

[totallymopar]

Thank you-this really helps!

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

Thank you-this really helps!

A lot of work to remove, drain oil, grease oil, and reinstall. Option B is extract oil with pump and get most of it and replace with fresh oil. If it is operating correctly consider leaving it as is.

 

[totallymopar]

A lot of work to remove, drain oil, grease oil, and reinstall. Option B is extract oil with pump and get most of it and replace with fresh oil. If it is operating correctly consider leaving it as is.

It is operating correctly.Only thing is,this oil has been in there,probably since it was made-over 30 years ago! I have seen video of oil drained out of the same transaxle(HydroGear) of approximately the same vintage,or a bit newer,that was very dark colored and dirty,due to fine bits of metal worn away in use and exposure to lawn dirt,as one would expect.Wouldn't that mean more accelerated wear on the inner components,not only because of the abrasive effect of the dirty oil,but because the protective and lubricating ingredients of the oil have been broken down,after decades of use? After all,would you not change your car engine's oil,or any other oil,after 30 years? I know that the differential in my Dodge went out for the same reason,and I had to install another one.And taking a drivetrain out of a lawn tractor is a heckofalot easier,than it is my car! Also-isn't there a filter in there,that should be replaced? The cost of a new filter,fresh oil,and removing the transaxle(4 bolts) is far less expensive,than running it untill it shells-and end up spending $400-$500 for a new trans--and having to remove it anyway!

 

[Tiger Small Engine]

It is operating correctly.Only thing is,this oil has been in there,probably since it was made-over 30 years ago! I have seen video of oil drained out of the same transaxle(HydroGear) of approximately the same vintage,or a bit newer,that was very dark colored and dirty,due to fine bits of metal worn away in use and exposure to lawn dirt,as one would expect.Wouldn't that mean more accelerated wear on the inner components,not only because of the abrasive effect of the dirty oil,but because the protective and lubricating ingredients of the oil have been broken down,after decades of use? After all,would you not change your car engine's oil,or any other oil,after 30 years? I know that the differential in my Dodge went out for the same reason,and I had to install another one.And taking a drivetrain out of a lawn tractor is a heckofalot easier,than it is my car! Also-isn't there a filter in there,that should be replaced? The cost of a new filter,fresh oil,and removing the transaxle(4 bolts) is far less expensive,than running it untill it shells-and end up spending $400-$500 for a new trans--and having to remove it anyway!

If you think it will actually be as easy as removing 4 bolts, tipping it over and draining oil and putting more in, go for it. I think you will find that is why it is rarely done.
Of course I think transaxle should be serviceable and oil drained (just like in many zero turn mowers). They didn’t ask us what we wanted.
If you think a new transaxle is only $400-$500, think again. Double that plus your time, money and frustration.

 

[StarTech]

The HG 618-0249 is listed as NLA so it only available as surplus or NOS. Not sure if the HG 618-0249A will replace it either but it is also listed as NLA.

 

[totallymopar]

If you think it will actually be as easy as removing 4 bolts, tipping it over and draining oil and putting more in, go for it. I think you will find that is why it is rarely done.
Of course I think transaxle should be serviceable and oil drained (just like in many zero turn mowers). They didn’t ask us what we wanted.
If you think a new transaxle is only $400-$500, think again. Double that plus your time, money and frustration.

Well,I think it WOULD be worth it.Since I've already removed the deck,got the seat and the back fender off,and already have the speed control disconnected(it needed repair),and the wheels off-then all I have to do is 4 more bolts,and the unit just drops out.And,considering what the cost of another unit would be-like you said yourself,IF I could get one-just 4 more bolts,after I ALREADY have it mostly disassembled anyway,is certainly worth the time and trouble.Besides,it's just me in my workshop,working on my mower,for my own use,when I'm not using it during this time of year,like in summer.And maybe while I have it out,I can add in a drain plug,once I CAREFULLY determine WHERE to put it.(and clean out any chips from drilling!) I have the tools and knowhow and can tap threads to put in a plug,to save effort next time I need to change the oil.I still think the extra work,and minimal expense of oil,and filter is worth saving a good trans,that is not only scarce,but expensive,IF and WHERE you can find one.I have found a few,for about $500.Oil is $32 a can,a filter a few more.A LOT less expensive than at least $500.This mower,built 30 years ago,is MUCH better made than the ones nowadays-you would have to pay a LOT for a new mower built this way.It's much cheaper to keep what I've got.

 

[StarTech]

If I am not mistaken there should be an Anti-torque bracket to remove too.