Hydraulic pumps getting hot

slomo said:
If you suspect metallic or other contamination, the lines and cooler must be replaced.

Probably full of air causing cavitation heating up the oil.
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These Super Zs do get quite warm/hot. The one across the street uses 10w40 and like heat off an open oven door after use. And its been that way for 5 five years that I have servicing it. This is why its has an air deflector on the tail fin directing air rearwards.
 
"AI Overview


Mobil 1 is not a pure Group IV (PAO) or Group V oil; rather, it is a proprietary blend of base stocks that typically includes Group III (hydrocracked conventional oil), Group IV (PAO), and Group V (esters/alkylated naphthalenes)."

"Is it a "True" Synthetic?
    • The Legal/Industry Definition: Yes. Since the late 1990s legal precedent (following the Mobil vs. Castrol advertising dispute), highly refined and hydrocracked Group III petroleum oils legally qualify as "synthetic" in the United States"

"The Purist Definition: No. Purists who reserve "true synthetic" exclusively for 100% lab-created Group IV (PAO) or Group V (Ester) formulations—such as certain boutique lines from Amsoil or Red Line—do not consider mainstream Mobil 1 formulas to be purely Group IV/V."


Problem is Mobile 1 is not a true synthetic. Notice how cheap it is at say your local walle-mart? Nothing but a group III stock, at best.
 
Are you calling $10+ a quart cheap? Either way it is better than DINO oil.

Now of course if you are buying the 5 qt bottle then it is $6.40 per quart [$32].
 
Skippydiesel said:
"I read that 15W50 is good up to 220 degrees."

The optimum (best) temperature operating range varies from oil to oil - ie depends on how its been formulated by the chemical engineers.
For best advice on this, check with your hydraulic oil manufacturer.

In my limited experience;
  • 93 C (200 F) is a nice, slightly cool, temperature.
  • 104 C (220 F) is getting up there, but still well within normal range.
  • 100 C (212 F) is desirable,at least once in an operating day, to drive off any water vapour/condensation that may have contaminated the oil.
:devilish:
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Thank you for the advice. Good information. Appreciate it very much.
 
No metal that I can see or feel. I shall purge the lines via directions of jacking up the back and moving the handles back and forth. Thank you for your help.
 
slomo said:
"AI Overview


Mobil 1 is not a pure Group IV (PAO) or Group V oil; rather, it is a proprietary blend of base stocks that typically includes Group III (hydrocracked conventional oil), Group IV (PAO), and Group V (esters/alkylated naphthalenes)."

"Is it a "True" Synthetic?
    • The Legal/Industry Definition: Yes. Since the late 1990s legal precedent (following the Mobil vs. Castrol advertising dispute), highly refined and hydrocracked Group III petroleum oils legally qualify as "synthetic" in the United States"

"The Purist Definition: No. Purists who reserve "true synthetic" exclusively for 100% lab-created Group IV (PAO) or Group V (Ester) formulations—such as certain boutique lines from Amsoil or Red Line—do not consider mainstream Mobil 1 formulas to be purely Group IV/V."


Problem is Mobile 1 is not a true synthetic. Notice how cheap it is at say your local walle-mart? Nothing but a group
Click to expand...
 
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