uigradz8900
Forum Newbie
Yes, the manufacturers starting instructions are visible.
Husqvarna 125B gas blower
- Thread starter uigradz8900
- Start date
uigradz8900
Forum Newbie
Just tried what you suggested and still would not start. I think there is a pressure/vacuum issue. Going to test that next. Other than that, I don't see why it won't engage. Thanks for the suggestion.
Rats. I do remove them on my 2-stroke devices. On a 2 - stroke small engine, there should be a port from the engine (piston) running through the manifold gasket to the carb to "pulse" the diaphragm. So anywhere along that route. Check for any vacuum leaks at the manifold and gasket, where the 2 halves of the engine join each other. Also, a punctured / cracked fuel line.
Tiger Small Engine
Lawn Addict
You do not want to use carburetor spray to start a 2-stroke engine. Use a little premix fuel squirted into the carburetor or spark plug hole. You can wash down the piston, rings, and cylinder and score them potentially. Remember, there is not oil in the engine, the oil is mixed with the fuel.
StarTech
Lawn Royalty
Quick study doesn't offset experience. IE book learning and actual hands are two different things. These things can throw you a lot curve balls. They may look simple but everything got to near perfect in order to work unlike a four stroke. It took me well over two years to get good at these repairs [self taught].I am definitely a novice when it comes to this sort of task, but I am a very quick study and YouTube certified on many things. I do not give up easily when I commit to something. I tried newer fuel. It sputtered a bit like it wanted to start, but still have not got there yet. Did another complete breakdown just to see if there was anything I may have done wrong and didn't see anything. Definitely have a spark when I tested it. Did another compression check this morning and still reads low (60psi). I understand that I am using an automotive style compression tester and it could be giving a false reading because of lower displacement volume from the blower and I also know that the new piston ring needs a short break-in period to completely seal against the cylinder wall. The timing cannot be manually adjusted since it utilizes a fixed ignition module keyed directly to the crankshaft. I know that with new crankcase gasket and shaft seals, it's not a guarantee of a perfect seal being aftermarket parts, but I'm hoping they are working as intended. Next, I will be playing with carburetor adjustments to see if I get a positive reaction. Wish me luck.
With a correctly setup compression gauge you should be getting nearly 140 psi with new components. Unless the aftermarket parts are defective or mis-matched.
I should had took of images of what that new Poulan NCC cylinder looked like. You would have swore it was trashed. Also in that case the cylinder and piston had to be a matched set. IE the NCC piston can't be use in a NCC cylinder [too tight] and the None NCC Piston can't be used in a none NCC cylinder [too loose].
Two key things on compression gauges. One is the placement of the check valve which needs to be at the end of the hose at the cylinder for it to open properly as you have to compress the entire hose otherwise before the valve will open. Second the valve needs to be a weaker version. Some older gauges this check valve spring is simply too strong. Now depending the hose length even on a properly setup gauge it will take multiple pulls until the needle no long climbs.
NCC = Nickel Ceramic Coated
Wound up in a thrift store. Tells me the carb diaphragm is hard as a carp needing replaced.
uigradz8900
Forum Newbie
All parts for the tune-up were aftermarket (Amazon). I usually have decent luck with these parts, but still, you never know.