HRX217VKA cold start problem

[oldenough2knowbetter]

New mower (last fall) but 2nd Honda self-propelled (it's a replacement for a GVC190 that was @10 yrs old).
I went to the dealership and spoke directly with a fellow from service. The GVC190 easily started every time. I hadn't mowed
the lawn for a few weeks (month max) before I got the new mower, so it's not a problem with my body.

Last year dealership said something may be clogging it. It's not. Yesterday I asked if the length of the pull cord
to start changed (he said no). I was told to push the mower forward, and pull the cord out. My body doesn't do that. I didn't know
that once the mower starts, I can start it easily. (If I remove the air filter and spray into the carburetor, it starts without
a problem and I said that, too.) I can shut it off within seconds of starting it and start it easily.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
I have the same Mower and problem.

Was told by Bert, that the Plug gets fowled and also the Carb can leak gas into the oil sump!

Neither one good!

The fix is to shut off the gas to the carb and burn all gas out of the carb bowl.

This will keep the spark plug clean for the next start up and will keep gas from diluting the oil!!!

This of course is before you put the Mower up for the day.

After doing this, I've had no problems.

Should not be necessary, to my mind, but here we are!

 

[sgkent]

New mower (last fall) but 2nd Honda self-propelled (it's a replacement for a GVC190 that was @10 yrs old).
I went to the dealership and spoke directly with a fellow from service. The GVC190 easily started every time. I hadn't mowed
the lawn for a few weeks (month max) before I got the new mower, so it's not a problem with my body.

Last year dealership said something may be clogging it. It's not. Yesterday I asked if the length of the pull cord
to start changed (he said no). I was told to push the mower forward, and pull the cord out. My body doesn't do that. I didn't know
that once the mower starts, I can start it easily. (If I remove the air filter and spray into the carburetor, it starts without
a problem and I said that, too.) I can shut it off within seconds of starting it and start it easily.

I used to fight with my Toro to start it. What I found is that if I pull the cord out medium-slowly it will come to a point where it has resistance. This is before it gets to the end. If there is enough cord left and I pull hard it will start the first pull each time. If there isn't much cord left, I let the cord in and pull, and it starts the first pull. Before doing it this way I used to pull seven or eight times sometimes.

 

[bertsmobile1]

On a 4 stroke it should fire on the first full cycle so you don't need as long a starter cord as the equivalent 2 stroke engine.
Your problem sounds typical of what happens when the choke butterfly does not close fully.
Easy fix on manual choke , you just loosen the throttle cable clap near the carb, set the throttle to choke , slide the cable back till the butterfly is completely closed then tighten the clamp.
Fully closed means you can not push it any harder into the carburettor throat.
Naturally you need to remove the air filter so you can see the choke butterfly
Also have a good look at the choke butterfly
If it is bolted in it should be fine , if it is held in with tabs, some times it can shift a little which prevents it closing properly

 

[oldenough2knowbetter]

I used to fight with my Toro to start it. What I found is that if I pull the cord out medium-slowly it will come to a point where it has resistance. This is before it gets to the end. If there is enough cord left and I pull hard it will start the first pull each time. If there isn't much cord left, I let the cord in and pull, and it starts the first pull. Before doing it this way I used to pull seven or eight times sometimes.

Thanks for your response. The service guy also showed me that technique along with the method I won't use because it's still a new lawnmower by doing the pull it out to the resistance point (as you say), then pushing the mower forward as I start it. I tried it a couple times when I got home.

 

[oldenough2knowbetter]

Hi,
I have the same Mower and problem.

Was told by Bert, that the Plug gets fowled and also the Carb can leak gas into the oil sump!

Neither one good!

The fix is to shut off the gas to the carb and burn all gas out of the carb bowl.

This will keep the spark plug clean for the next start up and will keep gas from diluting the oil!!!

This of course is before you put the Mower up for the day.

After doing this, I've had no problems.

Should not be necessary, to my mind, but here we are!

You made my evening. I'll let you know what happens. This is the simplest solution hope it works but I have to add something I just saw - please see my response to Bert (due to his response).

 

[oldenough2knowbetter]

On a 4 stroke it should fire on the first full cycle so you don't need as long a starter cord as the equivalent 2 stroke engine.
Your problem sounds typical of what happens when the choke butterfly does not close fully.
Easy fix on manual choke , you just loosen the throttle cable clap near the carb, set the throttle to choke , slide the cable back till the butterfly is completely closed then tighten the clamp.
Fully closed means you can not push it any harder into the carburettor throat.
Naturally you need to remove the air filter so you can see the choke butterfly
Also have a good look at the choke butterfly
If it is bolted in it should be fine , if it is held in with tabs, some times it can shift a little which prevents it closing properly

I used to have to open the butterfly valve on various junkers I owned (so, your response sounded like a great backup SeaGiant).

I removed the air filter this morn to just look how accessible the butterfly/choke are. They're in a hole in a protective open area, so I don't know how to get in there to prop it open but spraying engine starter is easy in the small space.

A new (as in a couple weeks when recently tried starting the Honda many times) problem appeared when looking at the air filter to look at the carb. There's a light but definite smell and yellow "spray" (albeit light) on the filter. I looked it up elsewhere and that forum said don't try starting the mower again until I know where the gas is coming from in the carb. There were videos how how to painstakingly figure this out that I had to ignore.

Would you and whomever yay or nay running out the fuel or do I need to get it into the repair shop? Debugging a carburetor isn't something I can do. I'm stalling on calling the dealership service again until you guy(s) respond. The good thing is I saw the gas.

I really appreciate the info everyone's providing here. Many thanks.

 

[seagiant]

Hi,
The Honda Carb is one of the easiest carbs to clean and get back on line.

This guy is great and has a good small engine channel!

 

[oldenough2knowbetter]

I've used videos for two different cars to pull out the cabin air filter (and it worked), so immediately started viewing this. The problem is I have to remove the carb from the Honda and that seems a bit hairy. Any easy suggestions to do this and if I do and mess something up (I know it's easy), my mess will invalidate the warranty. Thanks!

 

[oldenough2knowbetter]

You made my evening. I'll let you know what happens. This is the simplest solution hope it works but I have to add something I just saw - please see my response to Bert (due to his response).

Due to the obvious gas spray, dealership said don't start it and bring it in. I want my old GVC190 reincarnated. Had no problems and an 80 year old could've started it with an easy pull. So, this is case closed. Thanks all.