How to mow grass correctly??

poncho62

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If you dont want to deal with the clippings, cut more often....Its hardly rocket science.
 

steved

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Some of us don't have the luxury of mowing two or three times a week...so you do what works.
 

popsnyder

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Blade Height. Set the blade height on your push or pull lawn mower to the middle setting. Cutting the grass too low results in scorched soil in the sun. Cutting it too long encourages difficult cutting the next time.
Cut in Rows. The safest pattern for you to cut your lawn as a rookie is straight lines along one of the sides. This will keep your rows even and ensure that you cut all of the blades without missing spots.
Circle the Beds. When you reach a bed in the middle of your lawn, cut a row or two around the circumference of the bed. This will make sure that you get all of the blades around a difficult section of the grass.
Check the Bag Often. One thing that can ruin your lawn is to let the catching bag get too full. Then clumps of grass begin falling into freshly cut rows which can cause the grass that the clumps fall on to die.
Cut Often. Cutting your lawn often is the best way to encourage it to grow lush and full. Cutting too often is simply a waste of effort and materials. Once every week or so should be plenty for most climates.
 

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Oddball

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Hey guys/gals, new here, thought I'd chip in my 2 cents.

Rac1201, you say you cut at 3 or 4 inches. Which is it? 4 inches is tall for lawn grass unless its in a shady area (higher grass has more exposed leaf to catch the available sun) or unless you're in the middle of a drought or the dead of Summer with temps in the 90's (higher grass will shade the ground better and help it hold moisture). In normal conditions with 6 or more hours of sun and with normal rainfall or watering, cutting at 2 1/2 to 3 inches may be better. It has been my experience that the matting down of the grass in the wheel tracks is partly because of the height and partly because the grass is too moist. Also, grass that is too moist is more susceptible to some diseases, so cutting it a little lower may help it dry out some and should help eliminate the wheel tracks. As someone else suggested, overlapping your rows by a couple inches will help eliminate the wheel tracks also. That's my 2 cents. I'm no expert, just a guy that's been from one end of the spectrum to the other (from not caring about the yard at all and letting it get way too tall and out of control to being obssessed with having a great looking yard and all points in between).
 

Sprinkler Buddy

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I've been mowing my grass at my mower's highest setting (maybe 3" or 4"). I've been reading up on some articles that say that this helps conserve water. However, it seems like everytime I mow the grass, the wheels on my lawn mower presses the grass blades flat since they are so long and so they never get cut.
I can definitely notice the grass is a lot more wet when I mow now. A lot of times, my mulching lawnmower also leaves clumps on the side which presses the grass even more. And if I don't remove those clumps, the grass will die leaving lines of yellow dead grass where the wheels pressed it down.

So my question is....How do I cut my grass evenly without pressing the grass blades flat?

I would recommend mowing more often in the growing season. Cross up your mowing pattern. Mow later in the evening on a day your sprinklers did not come on that mourning. Cutting your lawn when it is dry will reduce the clumps big time! I have a few yards like this. Cutting the grass when it is dry is key.
 
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