how to fix dollar spots?
- Thread starter asong
- Start date
turfgrasspro
Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2012
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 14
There are many fungicides that will help to eliminate dollar spot. Daconil is a fungicide commonly used in turf industry for dollar spot. It may need repeat applications if the dollar spot is progressed. In order to control dollar spot you need to stay on a good management program throughout the year including regular intervals of fungicides. Remember to always follow label recommendations.
turfgrasspro
Member
- Joined
- Oct 26, 2012
- Threads
- 3
- Messages
- 14
Fairy Ring and Dollar Spot are two totally different fungus's, although they are generally treated and cured the same way. Dollar spot starts out as a brown straw looking patches starting at about the size of a dollar to a grapefruit, eventually joining together to form large patches several feet wide.. They stem from low nitrogen levels and temps being warm and humid. Hope this helps out.
Perry
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2012
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 128
Not dollar spots
Right: on that basis, I'm not dealing with dollar spot. What I have is a brown ring of dead
or semi-senescent grass, with the inner area of grass looking a darker green than outside
the brown ring, and slightly coarser, as well. Perhaps as the result of some symbiotic
mycorrhizal fungi association having an impact on nutrient availability/uptake? Another
possible cause of that inner area appearance is reduced sward thickness.
So far, (I have three) the ring diameter varies from a 15 to six inches. Some days ago,
I watered in some kocide (a micronised copper compound) so I'm waiting to see what
changes (if any) occur in the days ahead.
Right: on that basis, I'm not dealing with dollar spot. What I have is a brown ring of dead
or semi-senescent grass, with the inner area of grass looking a darker green than outside
the brown ring, and slightly coarser, as well. Perhaps as the result of some symbiotic
mycorrhizal fungi association having an impact on nutrient availability/uptake? Another
possible cause of that inner area appearance is reduced sward thickness.
So far, (I have three) the ring diameter varies from a 15 to six inches. Some days ago,
I watered in some kocide (a micronised copper compound) so I'm waiting to see what
changes (if any) occur in the days ahead.
lawn mower fanatic
Lawn Pro
- Joined
- Jun 8, 2012
- Threads
- 321
- Messages
- 6,749
Here are some pics of the difference between "DOLLAR SPOTS" and "FAIRY RINGS".
Dollar Spots:
(http://www.eternallygreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DollarSpotDisease.jpg)
Fairy Rings:
(http://www.eternallygreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/fairyRing5.jpg)
Dollar Spots:
(http://www.eternallygreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/DollarSpotDisease.jpg)Fairy Rings:
(http://www.eternallygreen.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/fairyRing5.jpg)
Perry
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2012
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 128
Fairies & Rings of Fire
I think I like your fairies better than I like the locals, here.
Here's a selection of pix I took. Quite different symptoms
to those in your linked pix.
They're (sort-of) like a ring of fire. ??? The grass close to the center of the ring seems
to do OK. But it's hard to tell. The seeding rate was high and so the sward is denser
than average. That may have lead to an unusual softness to the turf as it might be
described as turf-bound. The clumps of surviving grass at the epicenter look coarser
than the general sward, but that may be because the plants-per-square area are so
much less in there. That - in turn - may be because only the rye grass has survived
whatever it is that's causing this problem and possibly killing the fescue.
I bought another bag of (the same) seed, some time back, to sow an additional area.
It looks (and grows) quite different. More than might be accounted for by the age
variation. It made me speculate that perhaps the bag I used for the main area had
a lot more fescue in it than the bag label indicated. The area was seeded Oct 2011.
I retired from this, quite a few years ago, so these problems are on my own place.
Despite the newly-grassed area being part of a free-range hen run for many years,
the whole property is inherently infertile, being a riverbed of long ago. But I've
applied a good amount of fertiliser and water is no problem. The grass is mowed
frequently and the clippings returned to the ground. Great for increasing the humus
colloid, but also provides a great medium for fungus development.
I think I like your fairies better than I like the locals, here.
Here's a selection of pix I took. Quite different symptoms
to those in your linked pix.
They're (sort-of) like a ring of fire. ??? The grass close to the center of the ring seems
to do OK. But it's hard to tell. The seeding rate was high and so the sward is denser
than average. That may have lead to an unusual softness to the turf as it might be
described as turf-bound. The clumps of surviving grass at the epicenter look coarser
than the general sward, but that may be because the plants-per-square area are so
much less in there. That - in turn - may be because only the rye grass has survived
whatever it is that's causing this problem and possibly killing the fescue.
I bought another bag of (the same) seed, some time back, to sow an additional area.
It looks (and grows) quite different. More than might be accounted for by the age
variation. It made me speculate that perhaps the bag I used for the main area had
a lot more fescue in it than the bag label indicated. The area was seeded Oct 2011.
I retired from this, quite a few years ago, so these problems are on my own place.
Despite the newly-grassed area being part of a free-range hen run for many years,
the whole property is inherently infertile, being a riverbed of long ago. But I've
applied a good amount of fertiliser and water is no problem. The grass is mowed
frequently and the clippings returned to the ground. Great for increasing the humus
colloid, but also provides a great medium for fungus development.
Last edited:
Perry
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Aug 23, 2012
- Threads
- 6
- Messages
- 128
Brown Patch
I called in to a local golf course to speak to one of the green keepers.
He showed me a wall chart they had for various grass pathogens.
From that, I've decided that the nefarious beast is brown patch or
Rhizoctonia solani. He suggested saprol fungicide.
Seems that's been dis-continued hereabouts, so I settled on some
chlorothalonil (one trade name being Bravo) and applied it, this
morning.
Since posting the earlier pix, I had another infection of a larger
size: a couple of yards across, rather than a foot or so. Ouch!
One of the earlier infections has disappeared and others are in
varying stages. The fescue is obviously more susceptible, as can
be seen from this pic, showing the rye grass surviving in the center.
At least one other patch shows that the rye grass has largely
colonised the whole area originally infected, so it seems to be
more tolerant of Rhizoctonia solani.
The rye grass, despite being a dwarfing cultivar, is still a coarser bladed
species than the much softer and narrower-leafed fescue. I might over-
sow the patches with a little fescue seed, this autumn. (Fall)
I'll let y'all know how the infections respond to the treatment.
I called in to a local golf course to speak to one of the green keepers.
He showed me a wall chart they had for various grass pathogens.
From that, I've decided that the nefarious beast is brown patch or
Rhizoctonia solani. He suggested saprol fungicide.
Seems that's been dis-continued hereabouts, so I settled on some
chlorothalonil (one trade name being Bravo) and applied it, this
morning.
Since posting the earlier pix, I had another infection of a larger
size: a couple of yards across, rather than a foot or so. Ouch!
One of the earlier infections has disappeared and others are in
varying stages. The fescue is obviously more susceptible, as can
be seen from this pic, showing the rye grass surviving in the center.
At least one other patch shows that the rye grass has largely
colonised the whole area originally infected, so it seems to be
more tolerant of Rhizoctonia solani.
The rye grass, despite being a dwarfing cultivar, is still a coarser bladed
species than the much softer and narrower-leafed fescue. I might over-
sow the patches with a little fescue seed, this autumn. (Fall)
I'll let y'all know how the infections respond to the treatment.