HELP! Kohler S265 Wood Splitter (help us not freeze to death)

Well, from what YOU'VE been told, it was just left in the rain. Getting wet will not kill the motor as mentioned, especially with you flushing the system.

**We don't IF that's all that was done to the engine.

I suspect your going to have to do some digging. Perhaps the flywheel key way SHEARED, throwing off timing. You can get a general idea after pulling the main cover over, feeling for TDC (and using a screw driver to see TDC with the piston. Magnets should be super close to the magneto then..

Check all wiring to the coil/ kill switch.

Make sure the combustion chamber is dry (and there IS spark-plug isn't fouled) before cranking over. Then after pulling several times, (making sure the choke works), the spark plug is damp.
 
As Bert noted (as I was typing at the same time), pull the valve cover and check to see if the push rods are in place, not bent, etc. It'll also help you find TDC...
 
This is awesome guys, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

I'm going to start tackling what you all have suggested tomorrow as soon as I get off work.

I suspect I'll need more help so I may post some pictures and ask more detailed questions.

TDC question: so with the magnet on the flywheel lined up with the airgap/ignition coil + piston at the top of the stroke would equal TDC for this engine?

I'll probably post a picture of the keyslot so you guys can help me evaluate

Thanks again
 
328ifun said:
This is awesome guys, thanks for the help. I really appreciate it.

I'm going to start tackling what you all have suggested tomorrow as soon as I get off work.

I suspect I'll need more help so I may post some pictures and ask more detailed questions.

TDC question: so with the magnet on the flywheel lined up with the airgap/ignition coil + piston at the top of the stroke (PISTON at TDC is TDC. A FLYWHEEL WITH A SHEARED KEY COULD BE ANYWHERE) would equal TDC for this engine?
Click to expand...

Actually yes, but your not at TDC compression stroke. It's a four stroke, one compression cycle for every 4 strokes(two revolutions).

If you watch your intake valve open and then close (turning the crank), the piston will come to TDC-COMPRESSION/(SPARK) stroke.

If you don't have the valve cover off, you can feel (spark plug out), cranking slowly, compression building up with your finger over the spark plug hole. I put a screwdriver carefully down then hole WHEN CLOSE, then rotate the crank back and forth until the pistons at it's highest point, now you have TDC/compression stroke..

The magnets on the flywheel should be real close at that point. If it's not, time to remove the flywheel nut and inspect.


*BTW, generally, on most engines, this is where you would check / adjust your valves... The cam lobes are farthest away from the valves...
 
Hey everyone sorry for such a late reply...

I pulled the fly wheel cover off and the magnets seems to be pretty close

However the flywheel itself pretty darn rusty

 
Alright I think I found a problem...



I pulled the valve cover and one of the valves is inoperable

The spring is not extended and there's no pressure on the push rod/ pin

I was able to pull the pin/rod completely out

Not sure what this means? Maybe the spring has seized ?

Going upload a video in a minute
 
Last edited:
So I went out and bought some PB-Blast,

Soaked the stuck valve real good, gave it a few taps, and it came loose.

Pretty sure, it was the cause of the no-start condition

Freezing temperatures, rain, and being left outside probably caused the valve to stick in the position it was left in

Inside of the fuel tank is still completely rusted so I had to order a new one... $80 bucks, crazy.

Next steps:
1. Change oil
2. Replace Fuel Tank
3. Clean rust off flywheel

And I'm thinking she should be good again, will report back soon

Thanks again
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top