Help finding the right replacement belt?

Makes sense if one belt needed to be replaced, the other does too. Good thought. Where is the flat idler from your arrow?
 
The plug can be anywhere on the outer case but there will only be 1 of them
If it is at the back and goes through the floor in the right place then it does not need to be undone every time you change the belts
If the blades spin with it unplugged then it is faulty
No real need to get it done at a workshop but you will need a rattle gun to undo the bolt as there is no real means of preventing the shaft from turning other than putting a strap on the flywheel or removing a spark plug and fitting a piston stop
I for one gave up tensioning then to exact specs ages ago
I just set the gun to it's lowest setting and tighten till the head stops turning with repeated applications
Apply some copper anti sieze to the PTO shaft so it comes off easier in the future as they get very hot in use and corrode tight on the PTO shaft
And do not stick your head directly underneath it because it won't budge, then it will come off in a rush & leave a sizeable divot in your forhead ( if you are lucky ) or even break your nose .
If it won't budge put a bearing seperator behind the top of the unit then a 2 jaw puller on the bearing separator
Do not try to lever it off as there in not enough room and you will end up bending the drive pulley ( more $$$$ ).

I am yet to recover full strength so when I refit electric PTO's I put an all thread in the bolt hole then slide the clutch over it and use the original washer plus a wing nut to wind it up so I can alighn the key way in the PTO shaft and the key in the PTO itself .
Take some photos so the new one goes back the same way very important if the drive pulley also comes off, which again I always do so it can get some never sieze as well ,
 
bertsmobile1 said:
No real need to get it done at a workshop but you will need a rattle gun to undo the bolt as there is no real means of preventing the shaft from turning other than putting a strap on the flywheel or removing a spark plug and fitting a piston stop
I for one gave up tensioning then to exact specs ages ago
I just set the gun to it's lowest setting and tighten till the head stops turning with repeated applications
Apply some copper anti sieze (seize) to the PTO shaft so it comes off easier in the future as they get very hot in use and corrode tight on the PTO shaft
And do not stick your head directly underneath it because it won't budge, then it will come off in a rush & leave a sizeable divot in your forehead ( if you are lucky ) or even break your nose .
If it won't budge put a bearing seperator (separator) behind the top of the unit then a 2 jaw puller on the bearing separator
Do not try to lever it off as there in not enough room and you will end up bending the drive pulley ( more $$$$ ).
Click to expand...
Bert,

This particular setup has a Double D setup. A simple large open ended wrench will fit it to hold keeping the crankshaft from turning. This is usually a SAE size but I ran into one that was metric.
I think this one is either a 1-3/8" or 1-1/2" Double D size. And the screw hex head should be a 5/8" (16mm).
1662891692830.png

Now I had made my own Double D holding tool make for this. Currently I have two double ended versions (fits four sizes of Double Ds) but I have ran into a couple sizes lately on larger ZTRs that I need have another one made. Currently I don't have an image of my tool; only the design drawings that I provided my machinist which I need to get patent. Beside I need make a slight design change for the washer I been running into lately. The tool still works but I would like to be holding the Double D fully and currently the washers are preventing this. On top some idiot OEMs are using washers larger than the Double D flats so my tool will not work on them.

You always leave the screw loose when first attempting to pull the clutch to hold the clutch so it just don't come off completely. Sometimes you will need a longer screw for this but it is safer than having it come off completely before you are ready for it to do so. As for the puller it will take one with long fingers but I yet to find one in my area that will work for the field part of the clutch assy duee to the rounded corners.

With the wrench or the Double D tool you can easily torque it back to 55 ft/lbs. Shouldn't need anti seize on the screw threads but the crankshaft to bearings does need it. Matter of fact some the mowers I work on actually have blue Loctite on the threads. Plus if drive belt pulley will come off a little anti-seize on the shaft is needed too (as noted by Bert). Boy I hate Cub Cadet ZTRs as they didn't use any anti-seize at the factory and I end destroying the drive belt pulleys just to get the engines off.

And those without the Double D you hold the flywheel at one of the ignition coil's posts with a large flat screwdriver in the ring gear teeth. Now of course you may need a helper for this.
 
Okay, so new clutch, purchase a torque wrench to tighten the clutch after replacement, and I need to find an impact driver to remove the bad clutch?

How do I make sure that I invest in the right torque wrench for the job?
 
Hustler27 said:
Okay, so new clutch, purchase a torque wrench to tighten the clutch after replacement, and I need to find an impact driver to remove the bad clutch?

How do I make sure that I invest in the right torque wrench for the job?
Click to expand...
A 3/8” torque wrench will work. You are looking at anywhere between 45 lb.ft. to 55 lb.ft. depending on the bolt size. You don’t necessarily need an impact driver to remove the bolt. All you have to do is prevent the crankshaft from turning. The Double D setup as mentioned above will make it easy. A strap wrench around the pulley will work. You will need to remove the belt for that. Heck, you have to remove the belt anyway.
 
Dealership where I bought the mower said it was very unlikely there was anything wrong with the clutch due to the belt breaking. They figure there is still part of the belt stuck somewhere. I haven't found any yet, and all of the pulleys seem to spin without issue, but in cleaning around one, I found this. This feels like it could be the issue. Any thoughts?





Went to slide my fingers around the pulley to check for any remnants of the belt. Fit fine under one side, but could only get them about half way around before they didn't fit.
 
It’s damn sure cocked sideways. You will need to pull it off and see how much damage there is and what needs to be replaced. I think that you may find the deck top to be warped a bit. The carriage bolt goes up through the deck and that area is not reinforced. The constant pressure from the belt on the pulley and carriage bolt causes the deck metal to warp.
 
Last edited:
One other comment since your in there already?
The upper cogged belt in your picture is the drive belt for the Hydro's. These are problematic and I have gone thru 2 in 350 hours of operation.

I have a Raptor SD 54" but I think your belt will be the same? Easy to check too.
Mine stock belt was Hustler #603907 this has been superseded by Hustler to belt #607400. Which is NOT a cogged belt. I read Hustler found the cogged belts had a much higher failure rate compared to the non-cogged versions.

Glad your found the **** eyed pulley as I was going to suggest that your pullies were most likely the reason why your machine threw the belt. I would for sure replace at least that one pulley. Be aware you might have additional pulley problems to.

Good idea on that plastic idler pulley replacement too! Do you have a part number?
.
.
.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top