natenkiki2004
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 22, 2011
- Threads
- 13
- Messages
- 177
An update; I put all the old (stock) metal pieces back in my carb, instead of using the new ones in the carb kit I got. It's running pretty good now at near-default carb values. I think I'm at 1 1/4 turns out for the main and 1 turn out for the idle. Idles pretty good and no hesitation to full speed. Behaves just like other snowblowers I've seen on YouTube. There were 2 things that screwed me over and they were both in the aftermarket carb kit I bought. The first was the main needle, it was longer and had a more pointed tip to it. The second was that brass piece that the main needle goes into, it was EXACTLY the same except for one tiny hole towards the tip, so tiny it would be tough to get the tip of a sewing needle in it. The old stock one didn't have that. Also, the springs for the needles were slightly different, more thicker and it might have made it so I couldn't bottom out the screws fully. Everything else in the carb kit was great, I have no leaks or any issues with the gaskets but the metal pieces weren't exact.
TL;DR: Be careful with aftermarket carb kits, especially the needles and other metal pieces. Make sure they're the same exact, no extra holes, no extra threads, no difference in needle tip.
I still have some minor fine tuning but she starts great and runs properly now. I'll do another hot oil change and start focusing on other things like belts, shear pins and other wearable items.
TL;DR: Be careful with aftermarket carb kits, especially the needles and other metal pieces. Make sure they're the same exact, no extra holes, no extra threads, no difference in needle tip.
I still have some minor fine tuning but she starts great and runs properly now. I'll do another hot oil change and start focusing on other things like belts, shear pins and other wearable items.