GH 618 not charging

steve 66

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I replaced the vr : getting 40 ac from the two white wires. Only getting 6 volts from the middle blue wire. At the battery I read 13 volts. I ran mower for an hour and half and cut it off and it woudn't start. It squeals turning on Pto, so I assume blelts are worn. Can the tensioner be all the way out? Next problem, this was the first time, levers forward and it barely moved. I went forward and backward and it finally moved, but it took a ways to get up to speed, It takes off slower than it used to. Usually you can spin the wheels if you hammer the levers forward, but not so much now. Has HF. Suggestions
Thx
 

bertsmobile1

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The + wire on the regulator plug should show battery voltage when the ignition is turned on.
It should show charging voltage ~14V when the engine is running full speed
The testing must be done with the plug on the rectifier as most are regulators as well and need battery voltage to work.

If the + terminal only shows 6 V with the engine off & the ignition on you have a very bad connection some where.
Time to get out the scoth brite & the can of contact cleaner.
 

steve 66

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Well, still not charging. Two white wires on vr getting 40 volts wot. + wire on vr 12 volts key on or off, engine running 12 volts on + wire. Everywhere with engine running I am getting 12+ volts. Any suggestions on further things to look at ?
Thx
 

steve 66

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thx for all the help. I finally got it to charge, bad contact and ground.

Thx
 

ssmewing

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thx for all the help. I finally got it to charge, bad contact and ground.

Thx
The ground that was bad, was it the ground for the voltage regulator ground?

When I overhauled my Kohler Command I was shocked (I made a funny) to see that the shroud is plastic and the regulator is mounted in it with a backwoods looking ground wire connected to it.

I am having the same problem as you were and have been getting by with a battery charger until I am caught up on projects.
 

bertsmobile1

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Very common for the ground strap on the Kohlers to fracture at one of the bends so it looks sound and will measure properly with a multimeter.
That is why I like to use a test lamp that puts a reasonable load on the connections.
When you have a minute make up 2 ground wires and fit one from each mounting screw to a Blower housing bolt on either side of the regulator.
Coat over them with liquid electrical tape to stop corrosion.
 

ssmewing

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The part that bothers me is that the plastic is what you have that the screw goes into. I don't feel you can torque the screw, that is part of your ground connection, tight enough into the plastic shroud.
 

bertsmobile1

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There is no load on the mounting screws and in normal circumctances the rectifier is never removed, it comes off with the blower housing for the annual clean out.
That is why they use the flat strap from one of the mounting screws to one of the blower housing mounting screws.
A good idea in the design studio, but just does not work in practice.
Putting the rectifier in the side of the blower housing is good, it gets lots of cooling air, is isolated from excessive engine vibrations, well out of the way.
 
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