Gets Hot, Shuts Down

Hello M.,

Yep, they also gum up from sitting unused during the winter. People do not comprehend that modern fuels breakdown rapidly.

A majority of problems I deal with are neglect and old fuel.
 
I would look at the ignition switch next. Also if it has a low oil switch and sensor that could cause it. Three things are needed for a gasoline engine to run. Spark, air/fuel, compression. One is missing. Help yourself solve the cause by first figuring which of the three are missing when it dies. Guessing is Ok sometimes but don't fire the parts canon. Doing service like changing the oil, filters, spark plug etc., are Ok but in a situation like this unlikely to solve it - unless you have a bad spark plug which can and does happen. Especially these days with all the online counterfeits of things.
 
You might consider leaving the kill wire off going to the magneto,
To do this, look for the black kill wire coming out from under the engine cowling, cut it or disconnect and bare about 1 inch insulation off the engine side of the wire and rig it so as it don't get grounded, start the engine and purposely ground the wire to see if you have kill control. Do not touch the bare part of the wire with the engine running or it will shock.
Let the engine run with the kill wire disconnected. If it does not quit you have a kill wire getting grounded back towards the ignition switch through the wiring. If it still quits you have a engine side issue, spark plug, fuel delivery, bad clone magneto, etc.
Let us know what you determine.

If it's a kill wire issue we need the Model number of your machine so we can find a wiring diagram.
 
Lbbdoc said:
Starts and runs great, then shuts down immediately. I replaced the coil and then bypassed the seat cut off switch, still no luck.. Thinking maybe I got a bad coil. it's a B&S 33R877 in a Craftsman tractor mower, 8 years old.
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I had a cub cadet a few years ago that did the same thing and it ended up being the muffler..the seam in the muffler opened up a litter and ended up super heating a part of the frame. The fuel line ran down that part of the frame about a foot from the muffler. The fuel was actually boiling/bubbling in the line casing fuel starvation. When the tractor cooled down the fuel would flow until the frame got hot again. Replacing the muffler fixed the problem.
 
Lbbdoc said:
Tried that, no luck. thanks though.





Doesn't stumble or cough, stops instantly. That's why I thought electrical and replaced the coil. Engine cover and fan are plastic. Clean underneath and the fan is new. I thought there might be a short or ground in the seat kill switch so I bypassed it. Once it's cooled down maybe 10 to 15 minutes it starts right up again.
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Since Cooling Off seems to be the key, you might try a known Good used coil or another new one.
Does it have the fuel shut off solenoid below the carb? Check that wiring. Does not sound like fuel problem to me.
Disconnect the multi-wire connectors at the dash/key and spray with contact cleaner. Good Luck.
 
Lbbdoc said:
Starts and runs great, then shuts down immediately. I replaced the coil and then bypassed the seat cut off switch, still no luck.. Thinking maybe I got a bad coil. it's a B&S 33R877 in a Craftsman tractor mower, 8 years old.
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If you use blended gas and don't use a fuel stabilizer there might be some gell in the tank or carbuator.
 
I just love it when people start throwing parts at it and don't diagnose the problem. Had a guy here threw probably $300.00 in parts and did not fix the problem. After I told him the problem that would not have cost him anything he never answered back. When it dies spray some Gum Out carb cleaner in the throat of the carb. If it starts fuel related problem if not ignition related problem.
 
sgkent said:
I would look at the ignition switch next. Also if it has a low oil switch and sensor that could cause it. Three things are needed for a gasoline engine to run. Spark, air/fuel, compression. One is missing. Help yourself solve the cause by first figuring which of the three are missing when it dies. Guessing is Ok sometimes but don't fire the parts canon. Doing service like changing the oil, filters, spark plug etc., are Ok but in a situation like this unlikely to solve it - unless you have a bad spark plug which can and does happen. Especially these days with all the online counterfeits of things.
Click to expand...
I always use the letters F A C T S you need when referring to a gasoline engine . F is for fuel, A is for air, C is for compression T is for timing S is for spark.......
 
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