fuses getting hot

[rabbit]

Mr. Mad, just downloaded and printed the owners operator manual. My machine falls into the 4320026 category.

The parts section only refers to the clutch as a clutch with out a manufacturer name.

The clutch does indicate with a sticker " Warner Electric Mag Stop".

the Voltage Out put checked at the battery at full throttle - 13.8

I still need to check the other things mentioned.


Battery Ground connect- need to inspect

Also the amp meter does not indicate it is doing or showing anything. Could that mean something?

thanks, randy

 

[Mad Mackie]

Check the clutch for internal resistance per the attachment in a previous thread, do this first!
Look at the wiring diagram, near the top to the left of the figure that is engine is a red/yel wire, this is connected to the battery positive (red cable) terminal on the started motor. Trace this line and you will see that it goes to the fuse with the red wire, to the ammeter positive terminal, out the ammeter negative terminal, to the key switch. The red wires on the key switch are power out when the switch is in the on position. One red wire goes to the module, the other goes to the PTO switch and when the PTO switch is in the on position, then out the blue wire to the clutch. note that the black wire in the clutch plug goes to ground. The electronic control module is the safety circuit control center for all machine operations.
The parts manual calls for a Scag P/N 461716 which is an Ogura GT 3.5 series clutch. This is an upgrade from the Warner clutch currently on your machine. It is a kit which contains all necessary parts to make the change to the Ogura clutch.
As for ammeters, if yours is not indicating anything I suggest that you replace it. Key switches are known to go bad and it is the second item in the power supply to your machine. The yel wire in the diagram next to the key switch is the charging system output. It actually connects to another terminal on the key switch and when the switch is in the on position the circuit is completed to send the charging system output back into the system to charge the battery and power all electrical components while the machine is operating. When the key switch is in the off position, the charging system is isolated from the electrical system to prevent back feed which will discharge the battery when the engine is not running.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[Mad Mackie]

My Tiger Cub has an Ogura GT 3.5 clutch. With the engine running at full RPM, battery voltage is 14.2 VDC, when pull the PTO switch on, the voltage drops to and remains at 13.8 VDC. This is with a fully charged battery in good condition and a correctly operating charging system.

 

[rabbit]

thank you Sir. I will be back in touch. Currently have some distractions keeping from trouble shooting my gremlin!

randy

Check the clutch for internal resistance per the attachment in a previous thread, do this first!
Look at the wiring diagram, near the top to the left of the figure that is engine is a red/yel wire, this is connected to the battery positive (red cable) terminal on the started motor. Trace this line and you will see that it goes to the fuse with the red wire, to the ammeter positive terminal, out the ammeter negative terminal, to the key switch. The red wires on the key switch are power out when the switch is in the on position. One red wire goes to the module, the other goes to the PTO switch and when the PTO switch is in the on position, then out the blue wire to the clutch. note that the black wire in the clutch plug goes to ground. The electronic control module is the safety circuit control center for all machine operations.
The parts manual calls for a Scag P/N 461716 which is an Ogura GT 3.5 series clutch. This is an upgrade from the Warner clutch currently on your machine. It is a kit which contains all necessary parts to make the change to the Ogura clutch.
As for ammeters, if yours is not indicating anything I suggest that you replace it. Key switches are known to go bad and it is the second item in the power supply to your machine. The yel wire in the diagram next to the key switch is the charging system output. It actually connects to another terminal on the key switch and when the switch is in the on position the circuit is completed to send the charging system output back into the system to charge the battery and power all electrical components while the machine is operating. When the key switch is in the off position, the charging system is isolated from the electrical system to prevent back feed which will discharge the battery when the engine is not running.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[rabbit]

Mr. Mad, Not that I have for gotten your recommendations but I went ahead and change the fuse holders and put the appropriate 20 amp fuses in.

The holders were warped and bad anyway.

Now things seem to be ok!

Fuse holders not getting hot.

The amp meter is still not working so I will change that.

Could my gremlin problem be solved? Probably not. I am still going to trouble shoot as you suggest.

thanks randy

 

[rabbit]

I did all the troubleshooting suggested. I can not find the cause of the fuse holders getting hot. I did change them and now all seems to be ok.

Fuse holders are not getting hot now.

Maybe that was the problem, they were wore out [if that is possible].

Thanks for all your help. If problem reoccurs and I find the solution I will let you know.

 

[Mad Mackie]

I have had fuse holders fatigue and loose their normal grip on the blades of the fuse.
I recommend that you check the system voltage at the battery with the engine at full throttle as a malfunctioning voltage regulator can cause excessively high voltage in the system which also can cause overheat in the fuses.
System voltage should be 14.1-14.3 VDC when stabilized at full throttle.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[rabbit]

I have had fuse holders fatigue and loose their normal grip on the blades of the fuse.
I recommend that you check the system voltage at the battery with the engine at full throttle as a malfunctioning voltage regulator can cause excessively high voltage in the system which also can cause overheat in the fuses.
System voltage should be 14.1-14.3 VDC when stabilized at full throttle.
Mad Mackie in CT

full throttle 12.99vdc, blades engaged- 13.23 vdc

 

[Mad Mackie]

full throttle 12.99vdc, blades engaged- 13.23 vdc

I hope that you meant 13.99 VDC, blades engaged 13.23 VDC!!
My Tiger Cub does 14.12 VDC at full throttle and 13.8 VDC when the blades are engaged and my clutch is out of spec.
I just stopped at my local Scag dealer and they are out of stock in my P/N clutch. They will get more in on Wednesday. My clutch should have between 2.8-3.2 Ohms in the coil when cold, but it is now down to 2.3 Ohms which increases the amperage demand of the charging system and approaching it's maximum capacity output.
Mad Mackie in CT

 

[rabbit]

I hope that you meant 13.99 VDC, blades engaged 13.23 VDC!!
My Tiger Cub does 14.12 VDC at full throttle and 13.8 VDC when the blades are engaged and my clutch is out of spec.
I just stopped at my local Scag dealer and they are out of stock in my P/N clutch. They will get more in on Wednesday. My clutch should have between 2.8-3.2 Ohms in the coil when cold, but it is now down to 2.3 Ohms which increases the amperage demand of the charging system and approaching it's maximum capacity output.
Mad Mackie in CT

I just checked it again, 13.06 vdc at at full throttle, 13.23 blades engaged.