Fuel shut off solenoid

[Binderman]

JD LX 277, Kawasaki 17 hp engine
Recently, the engine just died for no apparent reason. It was running fine and just quit. Since it's early in the season, my first thought was bad left over gas, debris, clogged filter. The regular "check first stuff". I went through the fuel system and cleaned everything. Still nothing. I have fuel to the carb, spark and definitely compression
.
This all lead me to the fuel shut off solenoid. I could not hear the solenoid actuate when the key was turned on. Checked for voltage and had good power at the solenoid but no action. So, I found the problem!

I've searched for a replacement, which is available for $130.00 +!!!! I just can't justify that on a 21 year old mower that I don't mow with any longer.

My "fix" was cutting off the end of the solenoid needle. I put everything back together and it fired right up!

I spoke with the JD dealer about my repair. He indicated I should put a shut off valve in the fuel line, before the pump, to prevent fuel from flooding the carb and ending up in the engine oil. Physically, i just don't understand how that can happen?

Shouldn't the float needle valve stop the flow of fuel and prevent the described flooding?

THANKS in advance for your help!!

 

[bertsmobile1]

You are right & the dealer is talking horse feathers.
OTOH putting a shut off valve in the fuel line before the first element is a good idea.
Shutting the fuel off and starving the mower is also a good idea.
The solenoid simply shoves a bung up the main jets rectum.

What the dealer was alluding to was a float valve failure which will allow the float bowl to overfill.
When this happens fuel passes through the bowl vent and then dribbles down the carb throat & into the cylinder .
From there it flows past the rings & fills the sump .
Now days the EPA mandates that no fuel can drip outside the engine.
So overflow & / or air vents all have to be internal.

A bit late for you now but usually you can clean the solenoid out.
They rarely fail electrically but crud accumulates around the plunger and jambs it.
Honda ones have removable plungers so you can pull it out & clean the hole with a Q-tip
Briggs & Kohler ones you dip them in your favourite cleaning fluid and worj the plunger in & out with your fingers till the plunger is free.
I use carb cleaner for field cleans &Innox for workshop cleans.
Some one on this list recommended popping them in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I have never done that before but will give it a try next time.

Withoug that plug you should throttle down then turn off the engine to avoid an afterfire in the muffler.

 

[StarTech]

Yes Bert Ultrasonics works but you still the work them up and down some to rinse out as you clean them. As with all methods there are times that nothing will save one. What worst is when you get a new solenoid and it is bad right out the package. I got three last years, two from Briggs distributor which the dealers refused to make up and one from China.

 

[Binderman]

You are right & the dealer is talking horse feathers.
OTOH putting a shut off valve in the fuel line before the first element is a good idea.
Shutting the fuel off and starving the mower is also a good idea.
The solenoid simply shoves a bung up the main jets rectum.

What the dealer was alluding to was a float valve failure which will allow the float bowl to overfill.
When this happens fuel passes through the bowl vent and then dribbles down the carb throat & into the cylinder .
From there it flows past the rings & fills the sump .
Now days the EPA mandates that no fuel can drip outside the engine.
So overflow & / or air vents all have to be internal.

A bit late for you now but usually you can clean the solenoid out.
They rarely fail electrically but crud accumulates around the plunger and jambs it.
Honda ones have removable plungers so you can pull it out & clean the hole with a Q-tip
Briggs & Kohler ones you dip them in your favourite cleaning fluid and worj the plunger in & out with your fingers till the plunger is free.
I use carb cleaner for field cleans &Innox for workshop cleans.
Some one on this list recommended popping them in an ultrasonic cleaner.
I have never done that before but will give it a try next time.

Withoug that plug you should throttle down then turn off the engine to avoid an afterfire in the muffler.

THANKS!!! We're on the same page! Everything you've explained is exactly what i was thinking.

Initially, I did clean the needle with carb cleaner. It was sticky, but not stuck. I replaced the solenoid and still not starting. I removed it again and straight shot electrical tested it and NOTHING! So, pretty sure it failed electrically.

 

[Spatky69162]

So would this cause my f932 to kill the engine when I depress the forward pedal all the way? If I just barely push it down it moves slow but it will move. I am wondering if is a safety switch somewhere