FS730V

Mark H_NO said:
Have you confirmed that you have good spark to both cylinders?
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Other than it will run normal and even when the blades are engaged it clears up after 15 seconds. I did often think it could be a bad coil but than would not account for the low compression.
 
Minimum compression for this engine is 65 psi. The 90 psi you mentioned is more normal. The 165 would be high. Kawasaki does not have a spec for what compression is “suppose be”. If you are above 65 psi, the engine should start and run.
 
txmowman said:
Minimum compression for this engine is 65 psi. The 90 psi you mentioned is more normal. The 165 would be high. Kawasaki does not have a spec for what compression is “suppose be”. If you are above 65 psi, the engine should start and run.
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So do you think I am chasing the wrong thing? It starts and runs great until you engage the blades and then pops, misfires for about 15 seconds and clears up most of the time. All pulleys, clutch and belt is new. Thanks for your help.
 
You likely have a fuel transition issue going from idle to load. (Full throttle with no load is high idle.) The carburetor may need to be cleaned properly with the welch plugs removed to clean the transition ports. Don't purchase a new carburetor. If you can't do a proper cleaning, then find a good mechanic who can. Replacement welch plugs are available, but few mechanics know how to reinstall them correctly unless they have attended Kawasaki training, so beware.
 
txmowman said:
You likely have a fuel transition issue going from idle to load. (Full throttle with no load is high idle.) The carburetor may need to be cleaned properly with the welch plugs removed to clean the transition ports. Don't purchase a new carburetor. If you can't do a proper cleaning, then find a good mechanic who can. Replacement welch plugs are available, but few mechanics know how to reinstall them correctly unless they have attended Kawasaki training, so beware.
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Do NOT remove the Welch plugs. Simply spray with carburetor spray, poke holes with tiny wire, and blow with air compressor blow gun.
 
It is really very simple and inexpensive to remove the plugs and clean the transition ports correctly. If you need help reinstalling the welcg plugs correctly, just ask.
 
Covah2423 said:
Update: pulled valves out of head and lapped them back in. They were fine, cleaned them, not much carbon build up.
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Hopefully final update: Put the head back on, honed the cylinder as much as possible first, adjusted valves on both sides. Cylinder 1 side the adjustments were loose. I did change both coils just to make sure it wasn’t them. It ran a little rough at first and then settled down and smoothed out. I engaged the blades and it was fine. Did it about 6 times with no issues. Not sure if the coils were the problem or adjusting valves did it but it is working so far.
 
Covah2423 said:
I have a Toro zero turn 60” mower with a Kawasaki FS730V engine. My son and I both use it, we both have 1.5 acres to cut. While he was using it he said it stopped engaging the blades, practically killing the engine. It has 317 hours on it. I changed the PTO or clutch, all pulleys and belt. Belt was shot. It got better but was still struggling when the blades were engaged. I then put a new carb, plugs, air & fuel filters on it. Did a compression test and I had 130 & 165lbs. Ran better but when I engaged the blades it would pop, miss for about 15 seconds and then clear up and I was able to cut the grass. Every time I engaged the blades it popped, misfired and then cleared up. So the next day I pulled the valve cover off the side with 130lbs and found the nut for the rocker had fallen off. Figured I found the problem. I put it back on adjusted the valves and ran it. Pushrod was good. When I engaged the blades it was normal. Tried it 3 or 4 times and it was fine. Later that day I changed the oil& filter and put on new blades. Went to cut some grass and it was back to popping and missing but never cleared up. Next day I pulled the same valve cover and nothing was wrong. I adjusted the valves again to check them and then I checked compression on both. My side with 130 was now 145 and the other side was 155. I rechecked the first side and it was now only 90lbs. Did it several times and still only 90. Put it back together and ran it and it was back to popping & missing when engaged the blades but cleared up after 15 seconds. Today my nephew who has a outboard business came over and checked the compression and was still only 90 & the other side 165. So then we pulled the head off expecting a bad valve but there was none. Did a leak test on it and it is fine. Head gasket is good. The only thing he noticed was the cylinder was dry and smooth. Any ideas?
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Parts cannon guy....
 
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