flywheel keys keep shearing.

Is this a overhead valve engine with a compression release on the cam shaft exhaust valve? If it is you probably need to set the valve on it. If the exhaust valve is to loose it will kick back just like it is out of time.
 
Set of points and condenser should fix it. If they stuck and were pushed apart with the crank lobe they might of bent and because point gap changes dwell that could be the timing kick you fell. On a car engine you set the dwell (point gap) first then the timing to correct it, the flywheel key is fixed so when gap is wrong it fires a little quick or late. I never had any luck filing them, start today but not tomorrow. When you had the flywheel off did you check the magnets to see if they come loose and moved?
 
i checked the flywheel and the mags were fine.
never looked at the points though. i will check tommorow. thanks.
 
checked the points, and they are right on .020 and not burnt.
i think iam just going to junk it. iam tired of tearing it apart. thanks for all your subjestions.
sorry about the spelling.
 
Tecumseh recommended using the dial indicator tool they had available to set the points gap on those engines. We fixed a lot of VM-80's on Snappers that had been "tuned up" at other shops Especially on recoil only engines. The customers always had the same complaint "ever since they fixed it, it's hard to start" and/or "it snaps the rope out of my hand when I go to start it". You might try going with .021" or .019" point gap and see if it makes any difference. We never had any complaints like that when we used the timing tool. Check and see if you have a pulley loose on the crankshaft or there is a crack in the flywheel keyway. Those also could cause the key to shear.
 
gave up on the 10 hp, found a tecumseh 8hp. runs good and is solid state. Question is do you think its big enough to handle a 32'' snow blower.
 
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