FL1500LE Weed Eater blower

[PTmowerMech]

New plus, fuel filter, lines. But can't get it to start at all. Adjusted the H & L, started both at 1 turn each. Gradually opened them up to two full turns each.

Good spark. 90lbs compression. A couple of times I'd get it to fire and actually idle for about 2 seconds. But by that time, my arms was about to fall off. After a few minutes of rest, I wouldn't start without maybe 20 pulls. But with the same results. Only a second or two.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Have you done a primary pressure / vacuum test ?
leaking crankshaft seals will make the engine near impossible to start.
Strait compression tests are not particularly useful on hand held two strokes.
They are also notoriously inaccurate due to the tiny volumes of these engines.

I suppose it is because they do not have a clutch but blowers are the only hand helds that have come in with a sheared timing key in the flywheel.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Something else I didn't mention. This this is hard to pull. In fact, the longer I pull it, it seems like it just keeps getting harder. Take the plug out of course it's a lot easier.

 

[Fish]

Sounds like it is trying to flood.
You should go through the carb. Likely has crud in it..
Or also a loose welch plug.

 

[PTmowerMech]

Sounds like it is trying to flood.
You should go through the carb. Likely has crud in it..
Or also a loose welch plug.

Did that. It was virtually spotless. Had a little on the screen. But that was about it. The rubber tip on the needle was warn a little, so I put a new on in it. The needle arm was spot on. Diaphragm was not stiff or dirty.

Piston isn't scored.

Was gonna check to see if there was a flywheel key, but I'm not seeing one in the part diagram.

 

[PTmowerMech]

I gotta get me one of these.

 

[Fish]

Mostly, the "key" is part of the flywheel on these units.

 

[bertsmobile1]

I gotta get me one of these.

Get yourself a Mityvac.
The plastic ones are OK provided you never let fuel get in them.
I started off with a brake bleeder for vacuum & a bulb pump for pressure.
And wile they did work, using the one tool is so much easier & quicker
On the first test Donny did ( he is one of the better presenters ) you would test both for pressure tightness ( I go to 10 psi ) then switch over to vacuum
The inlet line should hold 10psi ( 7 is also fine ) and also hold a vacuum
You then leave the tester in place and pull a vacuum with the primer / purge bulb before disconnecting & going to the return line,
Where you do as shown plus check that it will not hold a vacuum.
You can do all of that with the cab in place.
If it passes all of those tests then the only other thing that could be wrong is a blocked jet or stuck check valve.

With the carb still in place you hook up to the return line and pressurise the tank.
It should hold 10 psi, minimum and not hold a vacuum.
If it does not hold pressure then you check the grommets & cap for leaks.
I like to uncap the supply line and give the tank a single stroke of pressure to see if the fuel flows continually till the tank pressure drops off to 0 ( shows the filter is good ).

Obviously you have not found the Joe pace videos I mentioned previously. Do it now.
Then if you are still unsure there is a painfully boring Pom who presents his 2 stroke classes as if he was teaching intellectually challenged people.
painful to watch ( and there about 20 of them ) but worth doing if you are going to be doing this for business.

 

[PTmowerMech]

So just for funzies, I took the whole thing apart. The piston ring was frozen to the piston. The piston and cylinder wasn't scored. So I'm thinking about buying a ring and gasket set to see if I that fixes is.

I know, I know. I need a pressure tester. lol.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Take the ring out and clean the ring grove
Do it chemically with some dip type carb cleaner ( soaker ) and a Q tip
Do not use any sort of scraper because they can make the gap wider.
Do the same with the ring
Again no mechanical scraping as some rings are teflon coated and you can remove the coating.