First time opening an engine, a couple questions

john in ohio

Active Member
Husqvarna TS348XD (48") 24HP Kawasaki FR730V (3600rpms)
CODE: FR730V-GS04-R
E/NO: FR730VE37822
S/N: L2009140331

Kawasaki Engines FR730V-GS04-R
I was sucking large amounts of gas and suddenly getting smoke (white) when starting. I cleaned the carb, no change, still smoking. I replaced the carb, again, no change! Gas was getting into the oil. I looked inside with a bore scope and noted light vertical lines forming ing the cylinders! I checked the valves .006 good. Pressure tested the carbs new and original no loss in pressure. I replaced the fuel pump just to see if it might be over doing it. Changed the oil and still to much gas.

I had never opened and engine before, so I wanted to learn. I watched many YouTube videos ( James Condon and others) they make it look easy. So I took the heads off and cleaned the pistons. I could not feel the vertical lines in the cylinder walls, thank God. So I decided to re hone the bores to clean them up and check the rings for damage.
Cylinder - 1 checked 3.072 diameter. Ring gap top ring .014 (2nd ring) .022 no defects smooth as new. 300 hours on the machine with very clean oil, I change it regularly.
Cylinder-2 checked 3.0715 to 3.072 diameter. Ring gap top ring .014 (2nd ring) .020 no defects smooth as new.

Questions.
I'm fearful of changing the governor seals and crank seals. I saw the oil passages for the crank shaft and thought how easy it would be to go deep on the seals and block them! And the governor, why mess with it when I don't know what I'm doing? Should I change them? Should I replace the rings, they are almost perfect. Gaps are good and no defects.

I did a light hone on the cylinders only removed a half a thousand and lines are 99% gone. One spot remains one or two lines a quarter inch long and I can't feel it.

What are the small seals that are located at the locating pins in the sump? They fell out, I can't find any info on them on line.
 
How many hours are on this machine ?
did you take a compression test before tearing into it ?
Blue smoke would indicate worn rings as well as compression loss
Not sure about white smoke , never have noticed this on a small gas engine ,
Just curious , don't have any solutions myself but someone here will chime in
 
I think his gas was getting into the crankcase , the only way I know of would be from the carb bowl / needle valve not seating and somehow getting into the oil sump
 
Hello J.,

Sounds like fuel crept past the fuel needle when the engine was sitting (for a long time) and flooded the crankcase oil. That is where all the white smoke came from. The oil and filter need to be changed a couple of time to clear out all of the oil/fuel mix.

You tore into this engine and did not need to. (Quite an adventure)

At the very least, you will need a new sump gasket and crank seals, don't mess with any of the other stuff.

Any time I hone the cylinders, I replace the rings. (Personal preference)

Be very mindful of the reassembly and everything is cleaned really well. Make sure to put a light coat of oil or break in lube on any of the moving parts.

Once you get it back up and running, put a fuel shutoff valve in the fuel line and make sure you shut it off after running it every time.
 
How many hours are on this machine ?
did you take a compression test before tearing into it ?
Blue smoke would indicate worn rings as well as compression loss
Not sure about white smoke , never have noticed this on a small gas engine ,
Just curious , don't have any solutions myself but someone here will chime in
300 hours, compression 110 to 120 cylinder 1 and 2.
Only white smoke
Just want to make sure I understand prior to reassembling.
 
Hello, Just wondering what might cause "consuming large amounts of gas" as stated by Original Post.
Thanks!
As the owner, that is what I'm trying to figure out.
I wanted to clean up the cylinder walls prior to moving on.
I've replaced the carb, same problem continues
 
Husqvarna TS348XD (48") 24HP Kawasaki FR730V (3600rpms)
CODE: FR730V-GS04-R
E/NO: FR730VE37822
S/N: L2009140331

Questions.
I'm fearful of changing the governor seals and crank seals. I saw the oil passages for the crank shaft and thought how easy it would be to go deep on the seals and block them! And the governor, why mess with it when I don't know what I'm doing? Should I change them? Should I replace the rings, they are almost perfect. Gaps are good and no defects.

I did a light hone on the cylinders only removed a half a thousand and lines are 99% gone. One spot remains one or two lines a quarter inch long and I can't feel it.

What are the small seals that are located at the locating pins in the sump? They fell out, I can't find any info on them on line.
Crankshaft seal are install flush with the mount or no deeper than 1mm below the surface.

The small o-ring are the pressurize oil to the top side of oil and oil return. They are PN 670ZB2011. Don't have the specs for them. They are replaced anytime the sump is removed.

And you should have the service manual at your finger tips as there is a lot of torque specs in there.
 
I was sucking large amounts of gas and suddenly getting smoke (white) when starting.
White smoke is either fuel or coolant. Most mower engines are air cooled. Is this water cooled?
I cleaned the carb, no change, still smoking.
Did you pull the emulsion tube?

Pressure test the carb needle/seat at 7psi for 30+ minutes?
Pressure tested the carbs new and original no loss in pressure. I replaced the fuel pump just to see if it might be over doing it. Changed the oil and still to much gas.
Tells me you missed something in the testing. If the needle was holding, should be no excess gas in the oil. OR the carb float height is excessive. Most everyone doesn't even check float height. Very important step here.
I'm fearful of changing the governor seals and crank seals. I saw the oil passages for the crank shaft and thought how easy it would be to go deep on the seals and block them! And the governor, why mess with it when I don't know what I'm doing? Should I change them?
How much are they leaking? Oil is cheap....... Keep her on the FULL mark. Not over nor under AT EVERY MOW.
 
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