You are using an out of date browser. It may not display this or other websites correctly.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
You should upgrade or use an alternative browser.
Export thread
Ferris Pro Cut S 61"
#1
T
totouchantler
T
totouchantler
Hi all. I'm hoping to get some guidance or direction in how to change the hydraulic oil and filter on my Ferris Pro Cut S. The owners manual for the engine and mower have extensive information for changing the engine oil (directions and oil drain whip, etc.) but not much at all for changing the hydraulic fluid and filter? I'm assuming Ferris would like this to be a dealer service change? Any help very much appreciated. I just tipped 200 hrs. My mower has the commercial Briggs engine and was purchased new last year. Thanks in advance.
Chris
Chris
#2
T
totouchantler
Is there maybe already an old thread about this? I cant imagine this is the first time somebody posted a question about it? Thanks.
Chris
T
totouchantler
Hi all. I'm hoping to get some guidance or direction in how to change the hydraulic oil and filter on my Ferris Pro Cut S. The owners manual for the engine and mower have extensive information for changing the engine oil (directions and oil drain whip, etc.) but not much at all for changing the hydraulic fluid and filter? I'm assuming Ferris would like this to be a dealer service change? Any help very much appreciated. I just tipped 200 hrs. My mower has the commercial Briggs engine and was purchased new last year. Thanks in advance.
Chris
Is there maybe already an old thread about this? I cant imagine this is the first time somebody posted a question about it? Thanks.
Chris
#3
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Posting the machine model, model number and engine info of your machine would help us to be able to identify your specific machine and possibly assist you.
There are about 30 models listed under Ferris Procut S 61 on the Ferris support page on their website, which one do you have?
There are about 30 models listed under Ferris Procut S 61 on the Ferris support page on their website, which one do you have?
#4
T
totouchantler
The model number of the mower is 5901279. the model of the briggs commercial engine is 49T877-0010-G1. I'm not sure about there being 30 models of the Procut S in the 2015 line up? Its a 61 inch cut. Three Wheeler.
Chris
T
totouchantler
Posting the machine model, model number and engine info of your machine would help us to be able to identify your specific machine and possibly assist you.
There are about 30 models listed under Ferris Procut S 61 on the Ferris support page on their website, which one do you have?
The model number of the mower is 5901279. the model of the briggs commercial engine is 49T877-0010-G1. I'm not sure about there being 30 models of the Procut S in the 2015 line up? Its a 61 inch cut. Three Wheeler.
Chris
#5
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
With your model number, I was able to find the manuals for your machine.
For sure there is little info about the hydraulic system in the operators manual.
As I was looking thru the parts manual, I see where there is a single hyd oil reservoir and a filter.
It appears from the parts manual that the hyd oil filter is mounted horizontally, and if so this complicates getting rid of the air in the system that will be trapped in the filter until it fills completely.
The charge pumps on the hyd pumps draw in oil thru the filter and if the filter has trapped air in it, this air will go directly into the hyd pumps when the engine is started. The charge pumps are directly mounted under the cooling fans on the top of the hyd pumps. The same shaft that the fans are mounted onto also drive the charge pumps.
If the filter actually is mounted sideways and has flexible hoses connected to it, then possibly the filter mount may be unbolted to allow installation of a new filter that has been prefilled with oil and reinstall the filter and mount back into the normal position.
Bear in mind that when the filter is removed, all the oil in the hyd reservoir will drain out thru the filter mount.
Let us know what the situation is with the filter position and possibility of temporarily removing the filter mount.:smile:
For sure there is little info about the hydraulic system in the operators manual.
As I was looking thru the parts manual, I see where there is a single hyd oil reservoir and a filter.
It appears from the parts manual that the hyd oil filter is mounted horizontally, and if so this complicates getting rid of the air in the system that will be trapped in the filter until it fills completely.
The charge pumps on the hyd pumps draw in oil thru the filter and if the filter has trapped air in it, this air will go directly into the hyd pumps when the engine is started. The charge pumps are directly mounted under the cooling fans on the top of the hyd pumps. The same shaft that the fans are mounted onto also drive the charge pumps.
If the filter actually is mounted sideways and has flexible hoses connected to it, then possibly the filter mount may be unbolted to allow installation of a new filter that has been prefilled with oil and reinstall the filter and mount back into the normal position.
Bear in mind that when the filter is removed, all the oil in the hyd reservoir will drain out thru the filter mount.
Let us know what the situation is with the filter position and possibility of temporarily removing the filter mount.:smile:
[/[URL=http://s1331.photobucket.com/user/totouchantler21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/75395F37-1A45-4C13-96F3-F963BF423263_zpsnglukvnu.jpg.html]
#7
T
totouchantler
T
totouchantler
I think I'd have to remove hose clamps in entry and exit hoses ... The one has slack but the other is right and short...
#8
T
totouchantler
T
totouchantler
To answer question yes it is mounted and able to be removed.... But it looks as if one of the hoses connected to it is so short that it would be challenging to twist it into a position after dismounting where the filter would be able to be filled with fluid?
#9
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
There ain't much room to play with around the filter!!!
The grey hose goes to the reservoir?
The black hose (801) goes to a "tee' fitting and then to both pumps?
The grey hose goes to the reservoir?
The black hose (801) goes to a "tee' fitting and then to both pumps?
#10
T
totouchantler
T
totouchantler
The black hose (801) goes to the reservoir. The gray hose runs to the metal pump housing. On the opposite end of where the hose enters the housing I see a couple of hydraulic fittings attached to hoses that disappear as a couple down to the right wheel... where I'm sure they split. There is also a smaller gray house that returns to the pump housing...not sure from where...maybe overflow?
#11
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Just looking at the parts manual again, I see one pump that "tees' to two wheel motors.
#12
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Here is what I would do.
Buy a new OEM filter, no substitutes. Buy a one gallon or 5 Qt container of Mobil 1 15W-50, I think that is what is called for.
Be prepared to catch up to 5 qts of oil, as when the filter is removed, the reservoir will drain all of its oil out thru the filter mount when the filter is removed.
Place the new filter vertical, fill it with new oil, let the air bubbles escape. Just before you go to install it, pour most of the oil out of it, this oil is usable, so save it in a clean container, put some shop towels under the filter mount and install the filter.
Fill the reservoir to its normal level and let the machine sit for a while with the reservoir cover off, this will allow some oil to displace the air in the filter.
Generally the machine needs to have the drive wheels off the floor while doing the air bleeding procedure.
Start the engine and look at the return line in the reservoir. Usually this can be seen thru the filler neck of the reservoir.
Oil will return back to the reservoir and as it returns there will be air bubbles in it. Let the engine run until the air bubbles start to diminish.
Operate the foot pedal to cause the wheel motors to turn, forward and reverse a few times.
Recheck the oil level in the reservoir, take the machine off the jacks or whatever is raising it up. Check for leaks around the filter, operate the machine normally.
I think that the system will self bleed OK.
On some machines, opening the bypass valve helps to bleed the system, then closing the bypass valve before operating the machine.
Before you do this let me post to you what my plan B is. I gotta go to bed, I'm old!!!! HaHa!!!
Later!!
Buy a new OEM filter, no substitutes. Buy a one gallon or 5 Qt container of Mobil 1 15W-50, I think that is what is called for.
Be prepared to catch up to 5 qts of oil, as when the filter is removed, the reservoir will drain all of its oil out thru the filter mount when the filter is removed.
Place the new filter vertical, fill it with new oil, let the air bubbles escape. Just before you go to install it, pour most of the oil out of it, this oil is usable, so save it in a clean container, put some shop towels under the filter mount and install the filter.
Fill the reservoir to its normal level and let the machine sit for a while with the reservoir cover off, this will allow some oil to displace the air in the filter.
Generally the machine needs to have the drive wheels off the floor while doing the air bleeding procedure.
Start the engine and look at the return line in the reservoir. Usually this can be seen thru the filler neck of the reservoir.
Oil will return back to the reservoir and as it returns there will be air bubbles in it. Let the engine run until the air bubbles start to diminish.
Operate the foot pedal to cause the wheel motors to turn, forward and reverse a few times.
Recheck the oil level in the reservoir, take the machine off the jacks or whatever is raising it up. Check for leaks around the filter, operate the machine normally.
I think that the system will self bleed OK.
On some machines, opening the bypass valve helps to bleed the system, then closing the bypass valve before operating the machine.
Before you do this let me post to you what my plan B is. I gotta go to bed, I'm old!!!! HaHa!!!
Later!!
#13
T
totouchantler
T
totouchantler
THANKS!!! Your knowledge is amazing! I will recollect in am of next weekend!
Chris
Chris
#14
T
totouchantler
Here is what dealership says.
1. Warm oil up (run machine a little while)
2. If you have evacuation pump... evacuate oil from reservoir through fill cap.
3. Place rags under filter housing, unscrew filter. (try and rig some kind of catch to collect remaining drips etc.)
4. Fill new filter up about half way with oil and swish around etc.; then walk away for about 5 minutes as filter paper absorbs oil.
5. Screw new filter onto housing (don't take your time as oil will want to seep out).
6. Fill reservoir to proper fill level.
7. Start machine for a few seconds; then shut off. Check level add oil as needed.
He said machine might be a bit hesitant at first but remaining air will self purge/burp after a little while.
Does this sound reasonable?
Chris
T
totouchantler
Here is what I would do.
Buy a new OEM filter, no substitutes. Buy a one gallon or 5 Qt container of Mobil 1 15W-50, I think that is what is called for.
Be prepared to catch up to 5 qts of oil, as when the filter is removed, the reservoir will drain all of its oil out thru the filter mount when the filter is removed.
Place the new filter vertical, fill it with new oil, let the air bubbles escape. Just before you go to install it, pour most of the oil out of it, this oil is usable, so save it in a clean container, put some shop towels under the filter mount and install the filter.
Fill the reservoir to its normal level and let the machine sit for a while with the reservoir cover off, this will allow some oil to displace the air in the filter.
Generally the machine needs to have the drive wheels off the floor while doing the air bleeding procedure.
Start the engine and look at the return line in the reservoir. Usually this can be seen thru the filler neck of the reservoir.
Oil will return back to the reservoir and as it returns there will be air bubbles in it. Let the engine run until the air bubbles start to diminish.
Operate the foot pedal to cause the wheel motors to turn, forward and reverse a few times.
Recheck the oil level in the reservoir, take the machine off the jacks or whatever is raising it up. Check for leaks around the filter, operate the machine normally.
I think that the system will self bleed OK.
On some machines, opening the bypass valve helps to bleed the system, then closing the bypass valve before operating the machine.
Before you do this let me post to you what my plan B is. I gotta go to bed, I'm old!!!! HaHa!!!
Later!!
Here is what dealership says.
1. Warm oil up (run machine a little while)
2. If you have evacuation pump... evacuate oil from reservoir through fill cap.
3. Place rags under filter housing, unscrew filter. (try and rig some kind of catch to collect remaining drips etc.)
4. Fill new filter up about half way with oil and swish around etc.; then walk away for about 5 minutes as filter paper absorbs oil.
5. Screw new filter onto housing (don't take your time as oil will want to seep out).
6. Fill reservoir to proper fill level.
7. Start machine for a few seconds; then shut off. Check level add oil as needed.
He said machine might be a bit hesitant at first but remaining air will self purge/burp after a little while.
Does this sound reasonable?
Chris
#15
M
Mad Mackie
M
Mad Mackie
Hi Chris,
Yes, that sounds reasonable, there are machines that evacuating the hyd reservoir is the best and least messy way to prep for a hyd system oil change.
The key is to get the hyd oil hot enough. I have a 5 litter oil evacuation system that has a vacuum pump to make it work and I use it often for both hyd and engine oil.
You may need to operate the machine for a while to get the hyd oil temp up some and evacuate the oil from the reservoir. To reduce oil dripping, I punch a hole in the filter at the 12 o'clock position near the end, turn the filter 180 degrees unloosening it and punch another hole in it. With a container placed under the filter to catch oil, the filter can be drained before removing it thereby reducing the oil spills.
Fill the new filter, it will absorb oil, until it is full. Pour off some of the oil and install the filter. Fill the reservoir to the normal level.
Your dealer has given you key info on regarding purging air from the system, start the engine, let it run for a few seconds, shut it off. This will allow the filter to self purge. I would let the machine sit for a while before restarting it.
Oil evacuation systems are available and start at around $40 and go up from there. They are very useful and reduce oil messes. I change engine oil on most machines withdrawing the oil thru the dipstick tube.
Enjoy!!!
Let us know how you make out!!!:laughing:
Yes, that sounds reasonable, there are machines that evacuating the hyd reservoir is the best and least messy way to prep for a hyd system oil change.
The key is to get the hyd oil hot enough. I have a 5 litter oil evacuation system that has a vacuum pump to make it work and I use it often for both hyd and engine oil.
You may need to operate the machine for a while to get the hyd oil temp up some and evacuate the oil from the reservoir. To reduce oil dripping, I punch a hole in the filter at the 12 o'clock position near the end, turn the filter 180 degrees unloosening it and punch another hole in it. With a container placed under the filter to catch oil, the filter can be drained before removing it thereby reducing the oil spills.
Fill the new filter, it will absorb oil, until it is full. Pour off some of the oil and install the filter. Fill the reservoir to the normal level.
Your dealer has given you key info on regarding purging air from the system, start the engine, let it run for a few seconds, shut it off. This will allow the filter to self purge. I would let the machine sit for a while before restarting it.
Oil evacuation systems are available and start at around $40 and go up from there. They are very useful and reduce oil messes. I change engine oil on most machines withdrawing the oil thru the dipstick tube.
Enjoy!!!
Let us know how you make out!!!:laughing:
#16
T
totouchantler
Thanks Mad! I really like the idea of blowing a hole in the filter to control the spill better! Great idea! Thanks again. Between talking with you and the dealer (mostly you), I feel comfortable tackling this job! Thanks again.... I'll keep you posted!
Chris
T
totouchantler
Hi Chris,
Yes, that sounds reasonable, there are machines that evacuating the hyd reservoir is the best and least messy way to prep for a hyd system oil change.
The key is to get the hyd oil hot enough. I have a 5 litter oil evacuation system that has a vacuum pump to make it work and I use it often for both hyd and engine oil.
You may need to operate the machine for a while to get the hyd oil temp up some and evacuate the oil from the reservoir. To reduce oil dripping, I punch a hole in the filter at the 12 o'clock position near the end, turn the filter 180 degrees unloosening it and punch another hole in it. With a container placed under the filter to catch oil, the filter can be drained before removing it thereby reducing the oil spills.
Fill the new filter, it will absorb oil, until it is full. Pour off some of the oil and install the filter. Fill the reservoir to the normal level.
Your dealer has given you key info on regarding purging air from the system, start the engine, let it run for a few seconds, shut it off. This will allow the filter to self purge. I would let the machine sit for a while before restarting it.
Oil evacuation systems are available and start at around $40 and go up from there. They are very useful and reduce oil messes. I change engine oil on most machines withdrawing the oil thru the dipstick tube.
Enjoy!!!
Let us know how you make out!!!:laughing:
Thanks Mad! I really like the idea of blowing a hole in the filter to control the spill better! Great idea! Thanks again. Between talking with you and the dealer (mostly you), I feel comfortable tackling this job! Thanks again.... I'll keep you posted!
Chris
#17
T
thespyderbyte
T
thespyderbyte
Have only been with the lawn mower forum for a short time and already love it for the information I am getting. Have a commercial Ferris Procut 61 with a major hydraulic leak . Hopefully it may be only a lose hose. So much grass and fluid on the bottom my first order is to pressure wash the bottom so I can see what is going on. The mower is old but still going strong. Again thanks for the information.
#18
BlazNT
BlazNT
If you preasure wash you may get water in hydro fluid. Change the oil when done with repair.
#19
T
thespyderbyte
T
thespyderbyte
Thanks a lot! I would have never thought of draining the hydraulic fluid. I know there will not be too much fluid in it, at the moment it is using more fluid than gasoline. It had to be cleaned on the bottom to see where it is leaking from. After today the mower is looking like it did when new, a lot more red showing LOL!! I have never found/read anything on what kind of hydraulic fluid to use in the mower. Have always bought the cheapest from tractor supply but it was like a general universal hydraulic fluid. Any kind of fluid you recommend and additives for gas, oil or fluid in this mower I would greatly appreciate. The past owner used 10w-30 pennzoil in it, so have continued using that oil.
#20
BlazNT
BlazNT
Hydro-Gear uses 20 W50.
If you could get the model number off the drive when you are done cleaning it I can tell you what it is supposed to have in it. The manual should also let you know what it needs.
If you could get the model number off the drive when you are done cleaning it I can tell you what it is supposed to have in it. The manual should also let you know what it needs.
#21
T
thespyderbyte
T
thespyderbyte
I'll look for that number. I did replace the fluid filter with a NAPA gold filter, and the loss of hyd fluid has stopped. The skid plate I had to remove to get to the filter had only one bolt in it, requires two, so replacing the skid plate will put another bolt. Think the vibration of the skid plate made the filter to leak, had a mark on the side of the filter. The engine is a Kohler command 22 on a commercial procut 61. Will change oil, fuel and oil filter, sharpen blades. I like taking a impact gun and taking the blades off, just have them drop to the ground. Quick and painless. Model is CV22S. This critter isn't new by a long shot but still a good mower and hope to use it a lot still before buying another.