FB460V-CS00

Did you check the oil as soon as you had the problem? Could be, the gas was in the crankcase from the git-go. Change oil and start over. Engines with the carb attached to down sloped intake can do that if the float valve leaks. Parked downhill just exacerbates the problem.
 
Always try to keep the original carburetor. Recently I repaired and cleaned out a carburetor that had some rubber stopping it up. I cleaned it put it back. The other ran fine for about 10 minutes and then the carburetor was acting up again flooding out the engine. After pulling it apart and discovered another small piece of rubber stuck in the needle valve, causing it to leak. The fuel hose was going bad and letting particles of rubber into the carburetor. Make sure that it’s not rubber clogging it up. Replace your fuel lines if they’re old. Install a fuel filter right before the carburetor so it will catch all of the debris.
 
Stob said:
Understand about probably not needing the whole carb. But parts are hard to come by, and I don't have a JD dealer very close. To me, time right now is important. I use this mower year round for as much I can. I used to make a lot of money setting up carbs for street racers back decades ago, but parts were readily available.
I have a Shindowa weed eater and at about 12 years, the diaphragms gave out. I tried every place to find replacements and or another carb with no luck. I called them, and was told they only support a model for 10 years, when parts are gone they are gone. But I found an aftermarket carb and it's still running today. I'll check for the numbers tomorrow, great info. Thanks.
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If you can set up a Holley 4 barrel, surely you can handle a little mower carburetor. Keep the OEM carburetor if at all possible!
 
Sometimes it’s cheaper to buy a complete aftermarket carb and use parts from it to repair your oem one rather than buy individual parts. Try to keep oem carb. Inferior metals are sometimes used to cast aftermarket carbs.
 
I keep everything, got stuff everywhere! I got the new carb, no issues on install and it fired right up.It doesn't idle as smooth, the fuel adjustment screw has a limiter on it. I almost took it off before installing but thought I would try it. It was raining so I didn't spend a lot of time, but if won't adjust right, I'll take it out and put the old one in it where it's not restricted.

Holleys where pretty easy, between jets and those d^mn power valves, not a lot else to do. What I really liked were Quadrajets. Those you can tune both the primaries and the secondaries with jest and metering rods.
 
Stob said:
I keep everything, got stuff everywhere! I got the new carb, no issues on install and it fired right up.It doesn't idle as smooth, the fuel adjustment screw has a limiter on it. I almost took it off before installing but thought I would try it. It was raining so I didn't spend a lot of time, but if won't adjust right, I'll take it out and put the old one in it where it's not restricted.

Holleys where pretty easy, between jets and those d^mn power valves, not a lot else to do. What I really liked were Quadrajets. Those you can tune both the primaries and the secondaries with jest and metering rods.
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The idle port adjustment, with the limiter, is not intended to "tune" a carburetor. Its intent is for EPA emission adjustment. Which isn't much these days.
 
Recommend pressure testing the carb needle/seat at 7psi for 30+ minutes.

Pull the oil stick and smell for GAS. If you smell gas, fix the carb then dump the oil a few times. Do not run it with fuel diluted oil.
 
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