Exhaust glowing red - issues..

jpdodd

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I got a good idea that OP didn't buy the OEM carburetor since it is nearly $500 retail; PN 24 853 102-S. So it is very likely just a will fit after market that has a problem internally or is simply the wrong carburetor for that 23 hp engine.
Thanks. I thought the same thing which is why I bought a new carb. But it acts the same with the new one as it did with the one he put on. They are actually the same carb. Could be both are faulty..but I've bought other carbs for small engines and never had an issue.
 

StarTech

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Then your is much then mine nearly every one that I tried didn't work right.

Also I even spindles for the same CC deck from three different places and all were bad right out of the box.
 

jpdodd

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Then your is much then mine nearly every one that I tried didn't work right.

Also I even spindles for the same CC deck from three different places and all were bad right out of the box.
So do I have to buy the OEM? Not worth it to me to buy $500 carb...

I don't have the knowledge to tell what might be wrong inside the carb....
 

bertsmobile1

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Time to take a different direction we have now ruled out running lean
That leaves retarded timing or leaking exhaust valve
Do a leak down test on both cylinders.
 

jpdodd

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Time to take a different direction we have now ruled out running lean
That leaves retarded timing or leaking exhaust valve
Do a leak down test on both cylinders.
From what I understand, the timing is achieved with the shear key under the flywheel. That is in perfect shape. Not sure what a leak down test is...is it similar to a compression test?
 

7394

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Leakdown test | Lawn Mower Forum

or:

how to do a LEAK DOWN test on a lawnmower - YouTube


Also I would use a spray bottle of soapy water, run engine & spray around the carb to intake gasket. If it has an air leak, it will can cause very lean condition. You will know if there is a leak when the soapy water makes the idling engine stumble or quit running. Plus the plugs could show very white burn on them.
 

ILENGINE

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I am going to through out something else since we don't know the history of this engine. Could it be possible that somebody has installed the wrong ignition modules on this engine. Using the spark advance timing system on a system that was designed for fixed timing CDI, which is throwing off the spark timing causing the hot exhaust symptom.
 

Hammermechanicman

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Let it run with the glowing exhaust for a little while the pull the spark plugs and take a pic of the business end and post the picture. And the spark plug number.
 

jpdodd

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Sorry. Had to take a mental break from it yesterday, as I was ready to push it off a cliff. I'll get pictures of the plugs uploaded, and thoroughly clean the carb tonight.

I don't have the equipment to do a leak test. $70 was the cheapest kit I could find...hoping not to have to put a lot of money into this tractor...

The older gentleman I bought it off of, ran the mower for 12+ years. The only thing he changed was the carb, and hasn't used it to mow since he did. He wouldn't have been able to use it for that many years glowing like it is.

I just don't understand carbs well enough- especially this one that has a solenoid and accelerator...but my gut tells me this is where the problem lies. It's just weird to me that it can run so smooth and not be functioning well...
 

jpdodd

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Ok, so I attached two video links above for the mower running and the glowing muffler. Which is actually better than it was before! I got to thinking about the fuel and air, and noticed bubbles in the fuel filter. I put some new clamps on the hoses, and it helped!

But, it's still getting hot ( not sure if the amount is normal or not, but way better than before when the whole muffler glowed. ) and it does backfire when turning off.
 
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