Engine replacement

[Auto Doc's]

I am working on a Mad Dog mower, Kawasaki engine failed because the rod cap bolts were loose, that is one of many things with their engines that they hide and deny, so the fellow bought a used one, he was told it had a miss probably valve need setting, took the covers off the valve and found another Kawasaki hied and deny, the head was broke the guide that holds the push rod in place, broke off and it swallowed the valve and bent it, so he orders one from Wholesale warehouse, wrong engine, cranks shaft has to be a 1 1/8" X 4.250 length, he had to pay shipping back and got the right one but the muffler won't fit, now it's to find the muffler I have read that Hustler bought them and parts and mowers gone, but he is paying 50 per hour, while I unbox his useless motors and mufflers.

Hello Its Me,

If a rod journal has been worn down from lack of oil and frequent overheating, the rod bolts will loosen due to the excessive knocking that has been ignored by the operator. You found a result, not a cause.

Kawasaki is the last one I would blame for these engine failure problems. A large majority of engine failures occur from customer lack of proper maintenance or just plain abuse.

All brand engines do have their faults, but they show up more as hours of use increase, especially with a lack of maintenance.

I see all makes of engines in my business and a few of them that never make it past 100 hours because the customer never checked or changed the oil since purchased new. I offer oil change service, but no one want to pay for that when it cost more than it does to get the oil changed on their 4-cylinder vehicle. Service parts and oil are not cheap these days

Amazon cheap "white box" filters or Walmart budget oil do not work very well with small engines, and I will not use them.

 

[Its Me]

ILENGINE, I guess I did not state it right, the factory engine had the loose rod cap which threw the rod through the side of the engine and the secondhand motor that he bought had the issue with the head dropping the valve, just got his second engine in from Wholesale warehouse they sold what they call it a commercial engine and this time the right size crankshaft 1/18'' X 4.25' he now realizes that a local shop had the engine for 1,700 dollars and he would have been dollars ahead.​

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[Auto Doc's]

Husqvarna YTH 24V48 Product 960450046 Serial 012315a046880
Hi All, I acquired a Husq yth 24v48 with a blown briggs .The engine is a 24HP 44N877. The shaft is 1' Diameter, 3 5/32 length, 7/16x20 tapped along with a 1/4 inch keyway. My question is : Do I have any options for replacement ? Do I have to use the exact engine ? Will the Husq accept any other bolt up patterns as long I have the same size shaft? Thanks , Matt.

Hello Mattmotors,

Somehow this thread went off down the "rabbit trail".

Have you found an engine yet

 

[ILENGINE]

ILENGINE, I guess I did not state it right, the factory engine had the loose rod cap which threw the rod through the side of the engine and the secondhand motor that he bought had the issue with the head dropping the valve, just got his second engine in from Wholesale warehouse they sold what they call it a commercial engine and this time the right size crankshaft 1/18'' X 4.25' he now realizes that a local shop had the engine for 1,700 dollars and he would have been dollars ahead.​

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You missed the point that the rod/crank journal bearing overheating is the cause for the rod bolts loosening. The loose bolts are not the initial cause of failure. The overheating is. The dropped valve issue is also a symptom of an overheated head. If the rod bolts had been left loose or the valve issue was due to a manufacturing issue, the engine would have had a 90% chance of failure within the first 5 hours of operation.

 

[Its Me]

ILENGINE, I guess right but the rod broke about 1 1/2'' about where it connects to the crank, the bolts were still in the rod but had backed, I saw no indication of heat but the second engine you right that is a factory defect but I am not getting into that with the fellow or Kawasaki, after the second engine with Whole Sale Warehouse he got the right engine, another I will be gald to see it out of the shop.​

 

[ILENGINE]

ILENGINE, I guess right but the rod broke about 1 1/2'' about where it connects to the crank, the bolts were still in the rod but had backed, I saw no indication of heat but the second engine you right that is a factory defect but I am not getting into that with the fellow or Kawasaki, after the second engine with Whole Sale Warehouse he got the right engine, another I will be gald to see it out of the shop.​

That is about the correct location for rod breakage when the rod seizes to the crank from lack of lubrication failure. And the bolts back off due to the heat effect. And signs of heat will not be overly evident if the engine was run without oil at the time of failure.

 

[Its Me]

ILENGINE, I am well aware of what you stated and what you mean, I am telling you that they was no heat, no discolor no melting to the crank the bolts were backed out about 1/4", some background myself, I am 74, been mechanic since very young we lived on a Farm, tractors and other things went in the home shop not the dealers shop, even with that times were hard, richer people would give us back them they were called (power Movers) so I learn to work on them guessing 10 years old, developed a love for working on them, years later I opened a Lawnmower shop, sales and service selling mower paid the light bill and labor but the money was made in the repair shop, only saying this to qualify that I am not a person joining the group to get information. but you are right in what you say can happen seen the melt to the crank and not throw a rod.​