Engine replacement wiring

wmg2

Member
I am replacing the engine on my Snapper rear engine rider. The original was an engine without the fuel solenoid on the carb, the ignition switch was a three pole with a hook up for battery, starter and armature. The new engine has a solenoid and I need to know what switch would work and which post would I hook the solenoid to. Most switches I have seen are 6 pole and some are not marked as to what goes where. Help.
 
I am replacing the engine on my Snapper rear engine rider. The original was an engine without the fuel solenoid on the carb, the ignition switch was a three pole with a hook up for battery, starter and armature. The new engine has a solenoid and I need to know what switch would work and which post would I hook the solenoid to. Most switches I have seen are 6 pole and some are not marked as to what goes where. Help.
All you need to make the solenoid work is a power wire to it. If you want to save some money just run a toggle switch.
 
Something like this should work for you...!

What would that tab be labeled as? I have a switch that supposedly works for a carb solenoid but I cannot find a tab that is live both during the starting sequence and after the engine is running.
 
On a B&S 5 pole switch its normally number 2 to the anti-afterfire solenoid, but there so many key-switch combinations, what you are looking for is a battery + out on a pin (terminal) when the key switch is set to (RUN).
 
On a B&S 5 pole switch its normally number 2 to the anti-afterfire solenoid, but there so many key-switch combinations, what you are looking for is a battery + out on a pin (terminal) when the key switch is set to (RUN).

Here are pictures of the switches I have. Just want to make double sure that I do not burn something out by hooking up wrong wire to wrong terminal. The switch one the left is a JD switch and the one on the right is a Murray switch that is supposed to be for a fuel solenoid equipped engine.
 

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    Murray switch.jpg
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Both switches have a terminal (L) which should be the one, but check it out by first setting a multimeter to continuity and put one lead on the (B) terminal and the other on the (L) terminal you should have continuity when you turn the key to on (run), when you turn the key switch to off you shouldn't have continuity. if you find that its not that terminal, leave lead on (B) and go around them all apart from the ground terminal and find the one that gives you continuity on key switch is in the on (run) position, you may find that it could be (A) which it is on some key switches.
 

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