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If you had to choose, which engine oil would you prefer, which do you have good experiences with? for example Castrol or Pennzoil. Also whats the farthest you have gone before changing your oil.?

I'm just getting ready for my first oil change,I have decided to go with castrol sae30...at the end of this mowing season I'll probably go with mobil one synthetic.

Ams oil 100 hr. oil change.

Castrol 10w-30 change my oil and filter every 50 hours.
Several folks have said it is good to do it that way, but they also said might be too excessive and if I want to do the service early I should at least run the mower for 75 hrs since the manual states 100 hrs.

Ryan Rognstad said:

If you had to choose, which engine oil would you prefer, which do you have good experiences with? for example Castrol or Pennzoil. Also whats the farthest you have gone before changing your oil.?

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About 10 years on a cast iron kohler,.. till the rod came trough the block...I just kept topping of the level.
PS: a rod bolt came loose,..had nothing to do with the oil

I use W30 in all my little gas engines and 15W40 in my diesels.
Synthetic is over rated and to expensive anyway but it helps with easier cold stars in the winter.

I use Mobil 1 10W-30 with a Purolator oil filter, changed about every 50 hours.

Which equates to once a month.

I'm not a big fan of Pennzoil. Heard both good and bad things (more bad than anything) about it.

Fram... I hate Fram with a passion.

All you have to do is take a Fram oil filter apart and see how poorly built it is.

Here we go again

exotion said:

Here we go again

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Oh but it's so much fun :laughing:

I change the oil filter every 50 hrs and use Mobil Super 5000 10w30 from Wally World cost me 12.97 for five qts

Mobile 1 10w-30, kawasaki filter, every 50 or so hours...overkill, but I like a clean engine :laughing:

Castrol 10w 30 in the 4 stroke summer equiptment and mobile 1 in the 4 stroke snowblowers

Av8r said:

Mobile 1 10w-30, kawasaki filter, every 50 or so hours...overkill, but I like a clean engine :laughing:

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Ams oil 15W-40, Baldwin oil filter, every 100 or so hours.... overkill, but I like a clean engine : :thumbsup:

10w30 in my briggs, 10w40 in my kawi, echo 2 cycle in small equipment, 10w30 in my jeep Cherokee, 5w30 synthetic in my truck, 5w30 in my fiero

Av8r said:

Mobile 1 10w-30, kawasaki filter, every 50 or so hours...overkill, but I like a clean engine :laughing:

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It's not overkill to change your oil and oil filter ever 50 hrs, I think the over kill is the synthetic when it's not needed and really has no benefit in a mower.

I usually use any 30w, depends on my mood. I change about every 50 hours.

Derson59 said:

I usually use any 30w, depends on my mood. I change about every 50 hours.

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Isn't 30w a bit thick?

X-man said:

Isn't 30w a bit thick?

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Wasn't thinking. I think you meant SAE 30

X-man said:

Isn't 30w a bit thick?

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yes it is sorry, sae 30...had a senior moment there.

Ryan Rognstad said:

If you had to choose, which engine oil would you prefer, which do you have good experiences with? for example Castrol or Pennzoil. Also whats the farthest you have gone before changing your oil.?

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Basically oil brand doesn't really matter. Generally speaking, any oil that meets the quality standards of an SF, SG, SH, SJ, or higher rating can be used in your riding lawnmower. You'll have company's like Honda, Kawasaki or Briggs that will tell you or recommend using there brand and it's no different or any better than any other, just more expensive because it has there name and packaging.

Ric said:

It's not overkill to change your oil and oil filter ever 50 hrs, I think the over kill is the synthetic when it's not needed and really has no benefit in a mower.

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The big benefit is the oil doesn't have to be changed as often with synthetic. My large the mower takes only 1 and haft quarts of oil and the small engines take only 1/2 quart. Not a very big expense as I see it so why not use the best. No one agrees on oil so as I see it you can put last nights recycled beer in your mower for oil for all I care but I will keep using Ams oil myself. :confused2:

reynoldston said:

The big benefit is the oil doesn't have to be changed as often with synthetic. My large the mower takes only 1 and haft quarts of oil and the small engines take only 1/2 quart. Not a very big expense as I see it so why not use the best. No one agrees on oil so as I see it you can put last nights recycled beer in your mower for oil for all I care but I will keep using Ams oil myself. :confused2:

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Here's part of an article below about synthetic oils. I've owned a lot of different mowers and every manual has said yes you can use a synthetic but not one manual has ever said that doing so you could extend changes in fact they warn against it and specifically not to do that.

Increasing the oil change intervals for your mower when using a Synthetic oil is a misconception. There are automotive oils out there that are Synthetic. These go through even more processing than a regular multi-weight and are even more expensive. Their advantage in automobiles is to provide even better protection across an even wider operating range than a standard multi-weight does. Often these oils boast longer intervals between oil changes to offset some of their cost.

Synthetic oils will work in your riding lawn mower and generally increase oil consumption less than a regular multi-weight does. However, the conditions where Synthetic oils claim to add protection, and therefore increase oil change intervals, are not typically present on a riding mower. So Briggs & Stratton do not recommend increasing the oil change intervals for your mower when using a Synthetic oil. And, once again, you will spend more to gain features that your riding lawn mower simply will not need under normal operating conditions.

Two places I don't use synthetic oil, my camp mowers and customer jobs. The reason I use standard oil at camp is the ease of buying it. Everything else I use Ams oil, motorcycles, scooters, ATV's, cars, mowers. Everything I use Ams oil in is very clean and I don't have any oil consumption or leaks. Yes back in the 50's when I first started in the mechanic trade it was standard practice to change oil often, 1000 miles for a car. Times have changed 20,000 mile oil change for cars and 100 hours oil change for small engines. On top of it newer engines run much cleaner and a lot more miles or hours. Back in the early part of my trade we did a lot of major engine work and 100,000 miles a car was worn out, the newer cars is just getting broken in in that many miles. If anybody just wants to keep thinking 1950s about lubrications just do so, no harm. Also I can recall in my earlier days when synthetic oil first came out they had a lot of problems with it, that was then not now.

reynoldston said:

The big benefit is the oil doesn't have to be changed as often with synthetic...

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Not exactly true.

One of oil's main jobs is to keep the engine clean. The reason why we change the oil is so we can get all the junk out and replace it with new oil to, again, keep the engine clean.

Good motor oil should start getting black around the first 500 miles (in terms of cars).

With that said, synthetic oil should have the same amount of dirt as regular oil after 3000 miles of use. Which, in turn, means that you should change it just as often as regular oil.

X-man said:

Not exactly true.

One of oil's main jobs is to keep the engine clean. The reason why we change the oil is so we can get all the junk out and replace it with new oil to, again, keep the engine clean.

Good motor oil should start getting black around the first 500 miles (in terms of cars).

With that said, synthetic oil should have the same amount of dirt as regular oil after 3000 miles of use. Which, in turn, means that you should change it just as often as regular oil.

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Exactly the point I've been trying to make, and because of the dirty dusty conditions we run a mower in your oil needs to be change every 50 hours with a filter. Using a synthetics and changing oil the way you need too you will spend more money to gain features that your riding lawn mower simply will not need under normal operating conditions.

X-man said:

Not exactly true.

One of oil's main jobs is to keep the engine clean. The reason why we change the oil is so we can get all the junk out and replace it with new oil to, again, keep the engine clean.

Good motor oil should start getting black around the first 500 miles (in terms of cars).

With that said, synthetic oil should have the same amount of dirt as regular oil after 3000 miles of use. Which, in turn, means that you should change it just as often as regular oil.

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That is the oil filters job not the oil. We don't agree on oil and no matter what we wouldn't change our thought on it. So you change your oil at 3000 miles and I will change mine at 20,000 miles as Ams oil recommends.

The oil you use should be based on what type of conditions you mow/drive in. And yes oil does lubricate and clean and protect the engine no matter what type of oil you use. The oil filter cleans the debris out of the oil. All oil breaks down and looses it viscosity. Can we all agree on that?

reynoldston said:

That is the oil filters job not the oil. We don't agree on oil and no matter what we wouldn't change our thought on it. So you change your oil at 3000 miles and I will change mine at 20,000 miles as Ams oil recommends.

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The oil filter cleans the debris out of the oil, the oil cleans & lubricates the engine.

If your oil isn't black after 5000 miles, your oil isn't doing a very good job at cleaning the engine.

No kidding I would be scared if my oil wasn't dark after 3000... At 5000 I would investigate. Anyone who waits 20000 miles is asking for trouble....

exotion said:

No kidding I would be scared if my oil wasn't dark after 3000... At 5000 I would investigate. Anyone who waits 20000 miles is asking for trouble....

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I agree 20000 is a little much. The Thing is anyone that changes oil in a car or truck today is crazy anyway. I haven't changed oil in a truck in the last 30 years and I haven't paid for one oil change in 30 years.

My Titan I change every 3000 like clockwork. Oil isn't black but its dark. My jeep gets changed every 2500 and it is black 1989 (210000 miles)

X-man said:

The oil filter cleans the debris out of the oil, the oil cleans & lubricates the engine.

If your oil isn't black after 5000 miles, your oil isn't doing a very good job at cleaning the engine.

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My vehicles are gas engines not diesels. My oil never turns black. It stays a tan color.

reynoldston said:

My vehicles are gas engines not diesels. My oil never turns black. It stays a tan color.

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I don't understand this statement..... All oil turns black when dirty

Shell Rotella conventional sae30 wt.

exotion said:

I don't understand this statement..... All oil turns black when dirty

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Very easy to understand. What part don't you understand? Oil in a diesel engine is almost like black ink.

reynoldston said:

Very easy to understand. What part don't you understand? Oil in a diesel engine is almost like black ink.

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Oil in a diesel engine turns black the moment you start it due to piston blow-by.

Oil in a gasoline engine gradually turns black as you drive it.

I'd be freaking the **** out if after a 5000 mile oil change my oil wasn't black in color.

X-man said:

Oil in a diesel engine turns black the moment you start it due to piston blow-by.

Oil in a gasoline engine gradually turns black as you drive it.

I'd be freaking the **** out if after a 5000 mile oil change my oil wasn't black in color.

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Change to Ams oil, will be a new experience for you.

X-man said:

Oil in a diesel engine turns black the moment you start it due to piston blow-by.

Oil in a gasoline engine gradually turns black as you drive it.

I'd be freaking the **** out if after a 5000 mile oil change my oil wasn't black in color.

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His oil doesn't turn black because it's not really oil. It's a lubricant made from chemical compounds that are artificial and to use it in a lawn mower, there are just no gains to justify the extra cost. Especially for someone who is in business and has multiple mowers that need frequent oil changes.

Ric said:

His oil doesn't turn black because it's not really oil. It's a lubricant made from chemical compounds that are artificial and to use it in a lawn mower, there are just no gains to justify the extra cost. Especially for someone who is in business and has multiple mowers that need frequent oil changes.

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More time running the mowers and much less time changing oil. More time making money less time spending money, justifies Ams Oil. On top of that you get many more hours running time before you need a engine over haul. No extra cost because less oil changes making more run time with better gas mileage. Just try it on one of your mowers and you will see a big advantage. Things have come a long ways in lubrications so get with the modern times of today. Try it you will like it, its 2014 not 1950 anymore.

reynoldston said:

More time running the mowers and much less time changing oil. More time making money less time spending money, justifies Ams Oil. On top of that you get many more hours running time before you need a engine over haul. No extra cost because less oil changes making more run time with better gas mileage. Just try it on one of your mowers and you will see a big advantage. Things have come a long ways in lubrications so get with the modern times of today. Try it you will like it, its 2014 not 1950 anymore.

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No, that's where you're wrong. Extending oil changes because you are using a synthetic should not be done. Every manufacturer of lawn mower engines and others warns people not to do that, it's a misconception.
Your oil in a mower at 50 hours regardless of type is going to be dirty and need to be changed. Synthetic oil was developed for use in an automobile. Go ahead and change your synthetic in your car or truck along with a new air filter and drive it down the road a 100 miles and return and check your air filter and see what you find, probably very little if any dirt or debris, now do the same to your mower, run it for a day and see what you find.
You'll find dirt, dust, grass and god only knows what and my guess is the air filter isn't catching all of what goes in and guess where it goes. I'm sorry but your claims like the oil company's are not justified when it comes to a lawn mower, a car maybe. Frequent oil and oil filter changes with a good detergent oil to your mower engine is the best way to keep a clean well working engine.

I guess we agree to disagree on oil. We could just go on for ever when it comes to oil.

reynoldston said:

I guess we agree to disagree on oil. We could just go on for ever when it comes to oil.

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I don't agree or disagree, I just use what the manufacturer says to use and do what they say to do. I just figure they know more about there engines and how to maintain them than we do.

I'll use what ever brand is on sale at napa, and whatever the manual says to use for thickness.

In my cars my truck gets whatever jiffy lube puts in it they have the computer(yes I know jiffy lube is a sin, but I watch them work and double check before I leave. It's a business expence) my jeep is old beat to death and doesn't have much life left in it. I use high milage conventional 10w30 what ever is on sale. And my new car after I eventually rebuild it I am going to run the conventional5w30 unfilled after break in. After that I will run syenthetic Mobil 1 10w30

synthetic, Sounds sinful to me

exotion said:

I'll use what ever brand is on sale at napa, and whatever the manual says to use for thickness.

In my cars my truck gets whatever jiffy lube puts in it they have the computer(yes I know jiffy lube is a sin, but I watch them work and double check before I leave. It's a business experience) my jeep is old beat to death and doesn't have much life left in it. I use high mileage conventional 10w30 what ever is on sale. And my new car after I eventually rebuild it I am going to run the conventional5w30 unfilled after break in. After that I will run synthetic Mobil 1 10w30

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I think the reason people like to use the synthetic in mowers is because it makes them feel special, kinda makes it feel like someone one is patting them on the back so to speak. Now I understand that the auto industry has come a long way in the use of synthetic oils and after all that's what it was developed for. I really don't have any idea what's even in my truck because Like I said before I haven't changed the oil in 30 years, I let Ford take care of that when the computer in the truck say so. The wife's car runs a synthetic but that's what it calls for because it's a Turbo so it uses 0w40 and the schedule changes for it depends on how its drove.

I take my Chrysler Cirrus to an oil change place every 3000 miles. I think it has mobil 1 high mileage in it, I'm not entirely sure. All I know is that it takes 5W-30.

Just make sure to double check after they are done I've heard far to many stories of the techs forgetting things or not putting enough oil in etc

exotion said:

Just make sure to double check after they are done I've heard far to many stories of the techs forgetting things or not putting enough oil in etc

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They walk in the lobby w/ the dipstick to show you that they put the new oil in it.

X-man said:

They walk in the lobby w/ the dipstick to show you that they put the new oil in it.

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Ok cool. Still double check they didn't tighten my oil filter all the way once puddle of oil on the ground told me. My friends car was destroyed because they forgot to put the plug back in all the way and it fell out somewhere on the road ran it dry. So just keep checking

exotion said:

Ok cool. Still double check they didn't tighten my oil filter all the way once puddle of oil on the ground told me. My friends car was destroyed because they forgot to put the plug back in all the way and it fell out somewhere on the road ran it dry. So just keep checking

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Well...

As far as my chrysler goes, I ain't too worried about it since I'm getting rid of it pretty soon. Floorboards are rusting out big time, so I want to get rid of it before I end up having a Fred Flintstone adventure. :laughing:

Just the other day I bought a 1996 Ford Taurus. It's in really nice shape, actually just recently passed a safety inspection test.

Only thing that scares me about it is that it has approx. 218,000 miles on it. My 1995 Cirrus only has 79,400.

A Ford with over 200k miles. Must have been rebuilt at some point or is due....

X-man said:

They walk in the lobby w/ the dipstick to show you that they put the new oil in it.

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:laughing:That does not mean a thing, they could've dipped the dipstick just in a new can of oil
The only time you can be sure they changed oil and filters is to crawl under and check if the filter is new and the drain plug has been removed or be right there when they do it,....or if you DIY
Most these lube places suck the oil out trough the dipstick tube but that leaves the crappy stuff in the bottom of the oill pan cause they can't reach it.

No one touches any vehicle that I own for any type of work, oil changes, tires, all repairs. I do need a NYS inspection done once a year on my cars and motorcycle and that is all I will have done by someone else. . I will have major warranty work done but take care of the small things myself. This way I know the work is done the way I want it done. To me a oil change and filter is such a small job why in the world would you have this done???

reynoldston said:

No one touches any vehicle that I own for any type of work, oil changes, tires, all repairs. I do need a NYS inspection done once a year on my cars and motorcycle and that is all I will have done by someone else. . I will have major warranty work done but take care of the small things myself. This way I know the work is done the way I want it done. To me a oil change and filter is such a small job why in the world would you have this done???

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I don't have a choice, against trailer park rules to do any vehicle work there.

Before ya'll say "go to someone's house and do it", I rarely have the time to do that.

Only my truck gets serviced by others. Because its a business expence and tax write off. This justifies me being lazy my other cars I do all the work except mounting tires I don't have that equipment. I did just buy my wife a new car a 1999 jeep Cherokee 1 owner perfect condition 168*** miles. It will be recieving synthetic only oil changes every 3500 miles.

Re: Engin Oil

X-man said:

I'm not a big fan of Pennzoil. Heard both good and bad things (more bad than anything) about it.

Fram... I hate Fram with a passion.

All you have to do is take a Fram oil filter apart and see how poorly built it is.

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X-man, have you ever taken a Fram oil filter apart yourself or are you going by what you've read in the past. Don't get me wrong, I don't use Fram either. I just prefer other brands.

Re: Engin Oil

patme said:

X-man, have you ever taken a Fram oil filter apart yourself...

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Yes.

The filter material has cheap-*** cardboard ends, which are supposed to be metal. Cardboard can easily break apart, which can cause the filter pleats to move from it's fixed spot.

Fram also has a sh**ty design for their anti drain back valve.

The filter media is cheaply built, with a low number of pleats put in it.

exotion said:

Only my truck gets serviced by others. Because its a business expence and tax write off. This justifies me being lazy my other cars I do all the work except mounting tires I don't have that equipment. I did just buy my wife a new car a 1999 jeep Cherokee 1 owner perfect condition 168*** miles. It will be recieving synthetic only oil changes every 3500 miles.

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It will be receiving synthetic only oil changes every 3500 miles.[/QUOTE] What a waste of money, why use synthetic with that low of miles? The advantages of synthetic oil is to be able to run it longer.

patme said:

X-man, have you ever taken a Fram oil filter apart yourself or are you going by what you've read in the past. Don't get me wrong, I don't use Fram either. I just prefer other brands.

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X-man said:

Yes.

The filter material has cheap-*** cardboard ends, which are supposed to be metal. Cardboard can easily break apart, which can cause the filter pleats to move from it's fixed spot.

Fram also has a sh**ty design for their anti drain back valve.

The filter media is cheaply built, with a low number of pleats put in it.

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I been using Fram spin on filters on my 5 GM 6.5 diesels since 96. I never had a problem with them. I cut a fram filter apart last year cause people were saying how bad they are.
I also cut a Donaldson filter apart that came from my GMC duramax diesel. I found no big difference in the make up between these filters when i compared the two.The filter media was identical on both and there where steel end plates on both.

reynoldston said:

It will be receiving synthetic only oil changes every 3500 miles.

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What a waste of money, why use synthetic with that low of miles? The advantages of synthetic oil is to be able to run it longer.[/QUOTE]

IMO synthetic is justified in winter as it helps for easier starting in below freezing weather cause it is more slippery. I don't use it anymore cause all my vehicles are kept inside a heated garage these days and the stuff is just to expensive.

Conventional oil is actually just as good.
I had a Pontiac sunbird that seized (spun a crank bearing) the engine just before the 50 thou km warranty expired.
It had not had an oil change in the last 20 thousand km.(wife was supposed to keep track of that)
They dealer send an oil sample out for analysis and it came back as well within limits,....nothing wrong with the oil.
The Dealer replaced the engine under warranty.

Conventional oil is actually just as good.
I had a Pontiac sunbird that seized (spun a crank bearing) the engine just before the 50 thou km warranty expired.
It had not had an oil change in the last 20 thousand km.(wife was supposed to keep track of that)
They dealer send an oil sample out for analysis and it came back as well within limits,....nothing wrong with the oil.
The Dealer replaced the engine under warranty.[/QUOTE]

Yes I run Amsoil full synthetic 20 thousand miles with a 10 thousand mile oil filter change. When I was running conventional oil I did a 6000 thousand mile oil and filter change. Just pushing it too far 20,000 miles on conventional oil. But also its yours equipment and money so go for it. Spindling a rod insert can get pricey. The only time I ever spun a insert it was my own fault with too RPM'S on a cold engine when I was young and foolish.

Fram filters are not made cheap.

The problem with running fram on a small engine or a performance engine is they restrict the oil to much.

Re: Engin Oil

X-man said:

Yes.

The filter material has cheap-*** cardboard ends, which are supposed to be metal. Cardboard can easily break apart, which can cause the filter pleats to move from it's fixed spot.

The filter media is cheaply built, with a low number of pleats put in it.

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Exactly the same what I thought, when I cut one open right beside a Kawasaki filter and a Purolator Pure One. The Kawasaki and Purolator filters looked and felt much better and stronger, so that is why I only use the Kawasaki filter with my oil changes and found it is much cheaper to order 6 or more at one time.

X-man said:

Wasn't thinking. I think you meant SAE 30

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Trick question...what weight is SAE30???? When the user stated 30w, you responded "isn't 30w a little thick" so I'm a bit confused as it seems to be saying the exact same thing to me(SAE30 = 30w). BTW, I've used Briggs & Stratton "SAE30" for over 20 years in 3 different mowers(most recently in my Kawasaki FX691V in my Gravely). Never had ANY oil-related problems(including oil consumption/leaking). Synthetic oil....what's that:0)
Oh yeah, that expensive lubricant for the lazy people that want to go 20k miles in their vehicles without changing their oil(guess you can tell I'm not a big fan:0)

djdicetn said:

Trick question...what weight is SAE30???? When the user stated 30w, you responded "isn't 30w a little thick" so I'm a bit confused as it seems to be saying the exact same thing to me(SAE30 = 30w). BTW, I've used Briggs & Stratton "SAE30" for over 20 years in 3 different mowers(most recently in my Kawasaki FX691V in my Gravely). Never had ANY oil-related problems(including oil consumption/leaking). Synthetic oil....what's that:0) Oh yeah, that expensive lubricant for the lazy people that want to go 20k miles in their vehicles without changing their oil(guess you can tell I'm not a big fan:0)

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OMG now you gone and got sh#t started.
Using briggs oil in a Kawasaki. Man you are lucky it has not blown up yet.
I will take the focus off of you.

For the past 2 months I have been using dollar general SAE30 at $1.95 a quart.

I useCastrol 30. Change oil every 50hrs, at 100 hrs change oil, air filter and spark plug.No repairs for 10yrs.

Carscw said:

OMG now you gone and got sh#t started.
Using briggs oil in a Kawasaki. Man you are lucky it has not blown up yet.
I will take the focus off of you.

For the past 2 months I have been using dollar general SAE30 at $1.95 a quart.

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Not worried here.....just gave my opinion and thought I was tactful. I would tell others with different opinions that I am by no means claiming to be the sovereign God and dictate to them what is right for them. On the B & S oil...you may recall in some of my early on posts that I was weaned on Briggs-powered lawn tractors. First on a 1993 46" Lawn Chief with a 16hp Briggs Vangard(13 years...then my son for 6 more), and second on a 2006 54" Craftsman(Husqvarna) with a 24hp Intek(that I wouldn't give you $1.99 for) that I gave my son in 2012 when I got my Gravely. I can honestly say that from 1993 to 2012, neither of those engines(and that 16hp Vangard was a GOOD one) had ANY oil-related(leaking or consumption) problems. The B & S SAE30 is inexpensive, widely available and good quality(like you stated...Dollar store SAE30 is........well is SAE30). My Gravely dealership mechanic told me he agreed that the quality of the B & S oil was just as good as the Kawasaki oil(and cheaper) and that it would keep my engine warranty in effect. On the conventional/synthetic debate I won't argue much for either, but do think synthetic is overpriced and I would NEVER go 20,000 miles without changing the oil in my truck(doing it every 3,000 miles has gotten me over 240,000 miles so far, so I'm gonna keep doing oil maintenance just like when I bought it in 1995 and see no reason to change). For my lawn mower....when Kawasaki starts shipping their engines with synthetic in them, or HydroGear starts shipping their transaxles with synthetic in them....then I'll re-consider changing to the recommended lubricant.

djdicetn said:

Trick question...what weight is SAE30????...

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When I read 30w, I was thinking something like 30W-__, and not just regular SAE 30.

I think SAE 30 is about the same as 10W-30.

First off Please don't tell me I'm wasting my money, because its my money not yours. I don't tell you that you should brush your hair not comb it because you will go bald if you comb it. I use Mobil One in all my machines and use factory filters also. I do the oil changing on my stuff, I don't have anyone else do it because I know its done right if I do it. People that don't do it themselves and have (Skippy) do it and then tell me they don't do it, don't know what they are talking about, so why listen to them. If you do your homework and see how synthetic oil works to keep your engine clean (big or small) you may learn something....

gfp55 said:

First off Please don't tell me I'm wasting my money, because its my money not yours. I don't tell you that you should brush your hair not comb it because you will go bald if you comb it. I use Mobil One in all my machines and use factory filters also. I do the oil changing on my stuff, I don't have anyone else do it because I know its done right if I do it. People that don't do it themselves and have (Skippy) do it and then tell me they don't do it, don't know what they are talking about, so why listen to them. If you do your homework and see how synthetic oil works to keep your engine clean (big or small) you may learn something....

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Umm, I know exactly what I'm talking about. I don't change the oil in my car myself because it's against the rules in my trailer park. I have to bring it somewhere else.

Back when I lived out in the country, everything done on my car was done myself, no one else touched it.

Just because we go to a local garage, doesn't mean we don't know what we're talking about.

gfp55 said:

First off Please don't tell me I'm wasting my money, because its my money not yours. I don't tell you that you should brush your hair not comb it because you will go bald if you comb it. I use Mobil One in all my machines and use factory filters also. I do the oil changing on my stuff, I don't have anyone else do it because I know its done right if I do it. People that don't do it themselves and have (Skippy) do it and then tell me they don't do it, don't know what they are talking about, so why listen to them. If you do your homework and see how synthetic oil works to keep your engine clean (big or small) you may learn something....

Click to expand...

Maybe take your own advice ya.
There is none of the engine brands that are sold new with synthetic oil in the crank case.
All of them state in their manual not to use synthetic for the first 3 oil changes.

The best way to prolong engine life and extend oil life is to install a bypass spinner filter.

X-man said:

Umm, I know exactly what I'm talking about. I don't change the oil in my car myself because it's against the rules in my trailer park. I have to bring it somewhere else.

Back when I lived out in the country, everything done on my car was done myself, no one else touched it.

Just because we go to a local garage, doesn't mean we don't know what we're talking about.

Click to expand...

I guess I should not have painted everyone with the same brush. Sorry. I was talking about the person that has not changed oil for many many years.

Bison said:

[/B]
Maybe take your own advice ya.
There is none of the engine brands that are sold new with synthetic oil in the crank case.
All of them state in their manual not to use synthetic for the first 3 oil changes.

The best way to prolong engine life and extend oil life is to install a bypass spinner filter.

Click to expand...

You most be talking about small engines, I'm talking about all MY engines, small or large, cars,trucks,tractors(small&large). All factory filters are bypass filters. Do you know why they are called bypass filters?

Haven't done 3000 mile oil changes ever, always 5k. 1995 Suburban 158k miles 1999 Ford Crown Victoria 166k miles 2000 Plymouth(lol) Van 223k miles, I will admit I got this off my uncle be he still did 5k oil changes...all on conventional oil. 2007 Jetta 90k synthetic change every 10k with Mobil One and this is manufacturers recommendation. So bash me for not doing 3k changes but I bet my cars/trucks outlasted most other peoples.

P.S Note I said MOST people nobody on this forum should think it's a personal attack.

DSepe said:

Haven't done 3000 mile oil changes ever, always 5k. 1995 Suburban 158k miles 1999 Ford Crown Victoria 166k miles 2000 Plymouth(lol) Van 223k miles, I will admit I got this off my uncle be he still did 5k oil changes...all on conventional oil. 2007 Jetta 90k synthetic change every 10k with Mobil One and this is manufacturers recommendation. So bash me for not doing 3k changes but I bet my cars/trucks outlasted most other peoples.

P.S Note I said MOST people nobody on this forum should think it's a personal attack.

Click to expand...

In my cars/trucks 7,500 miles, oil&filter.

gfp55 said:

You most be talking about small engines, I'm talking about all MY engines, small or large, cars,trucks,tractors(small&large). All factory filters are bypass filters. Do you know why they are called bypass filters?

Click to expand...

I am talking about bigger engines like truck and tractors,
I have a host of them, 7 tractors 3 loaders and 5 trucks.(all of them diesels 100 hp or better)
Yes i know about the bypass feature of a lot of filters but not all of them have it, sometimes the by pass is incorporated in the filter base in the block like on my GM 6.5 diesels.

I have 2 older Belarus tractors with just a factory spinner flter on the engine(do you know what a spinner filter is?)and no other cartridge or spin on filter.
The oil in these two engines never gets black no matter if the same oil is left in there for 500 hrs.

Bison said:

[/B]
Maybe take your own advice ya.
There is none of the engine brands that are sold new with synthetic oil in the crank case.
All of them state in their manual not to use synthetic for the first 3 oil changes.

The best way to prolong engine life and extend oil life is to install a bypass spinner filter.

Click to expand...

Bison said:

I am talking about bigger engines like truck and tractors,
I have a host of them, 7 tractors 3 loaders and 5 trucks.(all of them diesels 100 hp or better)
Yes i know about the bypass feature of a lot of filters but not all of them have it, sometimes the by pass is incorporated in the filter base in the block like on my GM 6.5 diesels.

I have 2 older Belarus tractors with just a factory spinner flter on the engine(do you know what a spinner filter is?)and no other cartridge or spin on filter.
The oil in these two engines never gets black no matter if the same oil is left in there for 500 hrs.

Click to expand...

....Your post 171867;... I know I'm old, but I bought a 1991 GMC Syclone new and it had full synthetic in the crank case, 1993 Typhoon same thing, 1994 Vett same thing plus others over the years. All bought new and they came with synthetic oil in the crank case and said it in the owners manuals. They have been putting full synthetic oil in new engines for a long time now.....Your post 171950;.... As I stated before I always use factory brand filters and they all have bypasses and anti-backflow check valves that a lot of cheapy filters do not have. Bypass filters have a valve that lets oil bypass the filter media if its plugged so the engine is not starved of oil. Spinner filters use threads to mount the filter to the engine unlike a cartridge filter which a lot of makers are changing to.

This topic has got me to thinking and researching now.
I have found two discrepancies now about the oil my engine is suppose to run.

1. Direct from JD owners manual:
Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.
John Deere TURF-GARD is preferred:

The following oils are also recommended:
John Deere Plus-4
John Deere Plus-50 II

2. Here is the twist, Kawasaki oil recommendation for my engine is:
Kawasaki GENUINE PART K-Tech 10W-30 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6081
Now this oil is Synthetic Blend

So which manual and oil would you guys follow, JD or Kawasaki?

Normally I only follow the equipment manual, but where this is coming from two OEM manuals now I am starting to question and wonder if I should switch to Synthetic?

Nwatson99 said:

This topic has got me to thinking and researching now. I have found two discrepancies now about the oil my engine is suppose to run. 1. Direct from JD owners manual: Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes. John Deere TURF-GARD is preferred: The following oils are also recommended: John Deere Plus-4 John Deere Plus-50 II 2. Here is the twist, Kawasaki oil recommendation for my engine is: Kawasaki GENUINE PART K-Tech 10W-30 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6081 Now this oil is Synthetic Blend So which manual and oil would you guys follow, JD or Kawasaki?

Click to expand...

Interesting find...I guess Kawasaki?

DSepe said:

Interesting find...I guess Kawasaki?

Click to expand...

I am also wondering is the 8 hr break in oil also Synthetic since I am cannot find anything at all about that?

Nwatson99 said:

This topic has got me to thinking and researching now.
I have found two discrepancies now about the oil my engine is suppose to run.

1. Direct from JD owners manual:
Use oil viscosity based on the expected air temperature range during the period between oil changes.
John Deere TURF-GARD is preferred:

The following oils are also recommended:
John Deere Plus-4
John Deere Plus-50 II

2. Here is the twist, Kawasaki oil recommendation for my engine is:
Kawasaki GENUINE PART K-Tech 10W-30 Engine Oil Quart #99969-6081
Now this oil is Synthetic Blend

So which manual and oil would you guys follow, JD or Kawasaki?

Normally I only follow the equipment manual, but where this is coming from two OEM manuals now I am starting to question and wonder if I should switch to Synthetic?

Click to expand...

I'd go by the Kawasaki recommendation, but that's just me.

gfp55 said:

....Your post 171867;... I know I'm old, but I bought a 1991 GMC Syclone new and it had full synthetic in the crank case, 1993 Typhoon same thing, 1994 Vett same thing plus others over the years. All bought new and they came with synthetic oil in the crank case and said it in the owners manuals. They have been putting full synthetic oil in new engines for a long time now.....Your post 171950;.... As I stated before I always use factory brand filters and they all have bypasses and anti-backflow check valves that a lot of cheapy filters do not have. Bypass filters have a valve that lets oil bypass the filter media if its plugged so the engine is not starved of oil. Spinner filters use threads to mount the filter to the engine unlike a cartridge filter which a lot of makers are changing to.

Click to expand...

I have no use for or do use gas engines(save the lawn tractor and some small one bangers) therefore i don't keep up as to what oil they use nowadays.
I am mainly into diesels.
FYI , SPIN ON filters and SPINNER filters are two whole different animals.
Spin on filters are as you are correct the cans with the treads as used on about any engine since they got away from the cartridge type many years ago.

This is a spinner oil filter.
Spinner II

Nwatson99 said:

I am also wondering is the 8 hr break in oil also Synthetic since I am cannot find anything at all about that?

Click to expand...

nope, the rings will never seat on a new engine using synthetic oil for break in.

Nwatson99 said:

I am also wondering is the 8 hr break in oil also Synthetic since I am cannot find anything at all about that?

Click to expand...

Been remodeling a house so I had the local dealer change my oil...He said he always runs synthetic in the Kawasaki per recommendation. He said the break in he put in mine was synthetic. I had 8.2 hours when he changed it.

There is some theories that synthetic oil will prevent rings seating. However, I know several that never run the oil that is shipped with the engines or drain the oil that is factory installed and use synthetic oil from the get go. Those machines run the same as any new engine as far as I can tell and do not consume oil.

Well thanks everyone for the info, I guess I will switch over to synthetic oil on this newer engine.

Bison said:

I have no use for or do use gas engines(save the lawn tractor and some small one bangers) therefore i don't keep up as to what oil they use nowadays.
I am mainly into diesels.
FYI , SPIN ON filters and SPINNER filters are two whole different animals.
Spin on filters are as you are correct the cans with the treads as used on about any engine since they got away from the cartridge type many years ago.

This is a spinner oil filter.
Spinner II

Click to expand...

I did not know that, Thanks for the info. I learned something today and I thank you. Do you use an engine block heater in the winter?

Yes all my trucks and engine powered equipment have a block heater.
I hardly use them anymore cause the equipment and trucks i use in winter sleep in my heated garage and shop.

djdicetn said:

Trick question...what weight is SAE30???? When the user stated 30w, you responded "isn't 30w a little thick" so I'm a bit confused as it seems to be saying the exact same thing to me(SAE30 = 30w). BTW, I've used Briggs & Stratton "SAE30" for over 20 years in 3 different mowers(most recently in my Kawasaki FX691V in my Gravely). Never had ANY oil-related problems(including oil consumption/leaking). Synthetic oil....what's that:0)
Oh yeah, that expensive lubricant for the lazy people that want to go 20k miles in their vehicles without changing their oil(guess you can tell I'm not a big fan:0)

Click to expand...

We don't know each other so how can you sit there and call me lazy. You have no idea how much work I have in my shop. You must have a shop full of work to say such a thing but I am also doing a lot of repairs right now is the reason I haven't been on the forum very mush lately. Being retired yes I have been trying to get away from wrench's some but its not working for me. Doing the 20,000 mile oil changes has nothing to with the amount of work I am doing. No I don't put in the 16 hour days like I did when was younger just because you do.

Well, I switched to 10W-30 oil in my Kawasaki FJ-180v engine and it seems to be consuming oil. Not a lot, but I do have to add a bit once in a while. I do hope it is not the motor itself that is loosing compression. :frown:

Bison said:

nope, the rings will never seat on a new engine using synthetic oil for break in.

Click to expand...

I don't know about that? Been a long time since I bought a new mower, but when I bought my ATV new it came with synthetic in it from the factory. And that is all I have run in it from day one.

Bison said:

nope, the rings will never seat on a new engine using synthetic oil for break in.

Click to expand...

reynoldston said:

I don't know about that? Been a long time since I bought a new mower, but when I bought my ATV new it came with synthetic in it from the factory. And that is all I have run in it from day one.

Click to expand...

I don't know how someone can say that the rings will not seat when using synthetic oil when manufacturers put synthetic oil in brand new engines.

I take a bucket and scoop out some of the used french fry oil behind Burger King. Cheap, works well and when I mow it makes my neighbors crave fast food!

gfp55 said:

I don't know how someone can say that the rings will not seat when using synthetic oil when manufacturers put synthetic oil in brand new engines.

Click to expand...

A lot of engines are already broke in before they leave the factory.
I have not heard of any engine brand that recommends synthetic oil for brake in purposes..period

Bison said:

A lot of engines are already broke in before they leave the factory. I have not heard of any engine brand that recommends synthetic oil for brake in purposes..period

Click to expand...

Straight from B&S FAQ It is very important to perform the initial break-in oil change, however. After the first 5-10 hours of operation, the oil should be changed to remove asperities that have broken from the bearings of the engine components and cylinder wall. Break-in can be performed using the recommended grades of standard or synthetic oil. Which switching to synthetic oil, the most cost effective method would be to use our standard oil for the break-in procedure, and if desired, use synthetic oil afterwards. For more information on oil types, please visit our Oil Recommendations page.

I guess you didn't look very hard then...clearly says conventional OR SYNTHETIC. It doesn't recommend one over the other. For cost effective measures you would likely use conventional oil. It's called google...and it's making know it all people look foolish everyday

DJlawnboy said:

Straight from B&S FAQ It is very important to perform the initial break-in oil change, however. After the first 5-10 hours of operation, the oil should be changed to remove asperities that have broken from the bearings of the engine components and cylinder wall. Break-in can be performed using the recommended grades of standard or synthetic oil. Which switching to synthetic oil, the most cost effective method would be to use our standard oil for the break-in procedure, and if desired, use synthetic oil afterwards. For more information on oil types, please visit our Oil Recommendations page.

I guess you didn't look very hard then...clearly says conventional OR SYNTHETIC. It doesn't recommend one over the other. For cost effective measures you would likely use conventional oil. It's called google...and it's making know it all people look foolish everyday

Click to expand...

There you go! ..standard oil for the break in period :tongue:
I Been saying that all along,.... synthetic oil after break in.:tongue:
Besides, You're not calling these Aluminum B&S contraptions nowadays an engine now... do you!?
One is glad he gets 100 hrs out of these throw away things before they seize a piston ,break a rod or blow up altogether,.....Oh....mebby it is because of the synthetic break in oil....Yeah, that must be it.:wink:

I run SAE 30W in my mowers and newly working pressure washer. I don't see any reason to use any type of winter weight oil in them because I store them in the garage and I don't use them during winter.

My Toro MX5060 manual says to change oil every 50 hrs, but not the filter until you hit 100 and continue to alternate like that. I guess they figure a filter is good for 100 hours, but I'm kinda leery of not changing the filter with every change.

Anyone understand this approach?

Zeroturner said:

My Toro MX5060 manual says to change oil every 50 hrs, but not the filter until you hit 100 and continue to alternate like that. I guess they figure a filter is good for 100 hours, but I'm kinda leery of not changing the filter with every change. Anyone understand this approach?

Click to expand...

I change my filter every other oil change.

The filter will still do it's job if you only changed it every few oil changes.

But I run good filters. Wix.

Carscw,

Thanks for the input.

No doubt not having to change out the filter is less hassle or is for me as once the filter is off, because no matter how efficient I am, oil dribbles and makes a bigger mess than just draining and filling.

I too use only high quality filters, but I'm having a hard time adjusting to the idea of not changing the filter each time.

The times they are a changing...

Well it will never hurt the machine to change the filter... It costs what $5? Ish. Me personally I change the filter every other change using napa brand filters

exotion said:

Well it will never hurt the machine to change the filter... It costs what $5? Ish. Me personally I change the filter every other change using napa brand filters

Click to expand...

Napa gold is one if the best filters to use.
I got a good deal on a case of them last month.

Carscw said:

Napa gold is one if the best filters to use.
I got a good deal on a case of them last month.

Click to expand...

I get a discount on them. I set up a commercial account with them. The more you buy the more you save. I think for my mower the filter is $3 my jeep its $4 the Titan is $3.

If you are really that concerned with not changing the filter than simply change it everytime it doesn't take very long, it doesn't cost much , just do it

Zeroturner said:

My Toro MX5060 manual says to change oil every 50 hrs, but not the filter until you hit 100 and continue to alternate like that. I guess they figure a filter is good for 100 hours, but I'm kinda leery of not changing the filter with every change.

Anyone understand this approach?

Click to expand...

I would not alternate filters like that myself, if your oil is dirty when you change it you know your filter is dirty as well, so to be safe just change it with your oil.

It makes more sense to change the filter once more between oil changes and leave to oil in longer

Nwatson99 said:

I would not alternate filters like that myself, if your oil is dirty when you change it you know your filter is dirty as well, so to be safe just change it with your oil.

Click to expand...

Same here. Did the same thing with my lawn tractor one day to try to save money. Oil turned black the moment I cranked the engine.

exotion said:

I get a discount on them. I set up a commercial account with them. The more you buy the more you save. I think for my mower the filter is $3 my jeep its $4 the Titan is $3.

If you are really that concerned with not changing the filter than simply change it everytime it doesn't take very long, it doesn't cost much , just do it

Click to expand...

Soooo!,..how many do you have to buy to get them for free? :laughing:

It appears some of would rather spend the little extra money and effort with a new filter with every change.

I would be interested in knowing what the engineer or whoever's thoughts are why he/she thinks a new filter is not required with every change. Certainly, the old filter contains at least 2 ounces of old/dirty oil which will contaminate the new...

But, maybe a little speculation might go something like this: "what's the big deal with a little dirty oil left in the old filter" when most of it's clean and yeah, the old filter is only somewhat clogged with contaminants, but will continue to filter, though not as efficiently as a new one?

I also wonder if this "only have to change oil filter every other change" is now suggested by most mower mfg's or is it exclusive to Toro?

Zeroturner said:

It appears some of would rather spend the little extra money and effort with a new filter with every change. I would be interested in knowing what the engineer or whoever's thoughts are why he/she thinks a new filter is not required with every change. Certainly, the old filter contains at least 2 ounces of old/dirty oil which will contaminate the new... But, maybe a little speculation might go something like this: "what's the big deal with a little dirty oil left in the old filter" when most of it's clean and yeah, the old filter is only somewhat clogged with contaminants, but will continue to filter, though not as efficiently as a new one? I also wonder if this "only have to change oil filter every other change" is now suggested by most mower mfg's or is it exclusive to Toro?

Click to expand...

Do you change the filter on your car every 50 hours? No

The same filter that is on some small engines is the same filter that is on a car engine. On my trucks I change oil and filter every 6000 miles that's a lot more then 50 hours.

How much trash do you really think a briggs 18hp single cyl that holds a quart and a half of oil gets into a filter compared to a truck engine that holds 8 quarts of oil.

If the oil filter is getting stopped up after 2 oil changes then you have other problems you need to fix.
If you get right down to it the filter should last 5 or 6 oil changes.

My Titan litterly uses the same filter as my toro proline lol

Carscw,

You make a good point about the hours, but what about the contaminated oil left in the filter? Am I over thinking it regarding the old oil still in the unchanged filter?

If that doesn't present a problem, I'll follow the advice of leaving the old filter on for every other oil change as the manual suggests.

And, thanks for your perspective, I appreciate it.

I'm still learning...

Carscw said:

Do you change the filter on your car every 50 hours? No The same filter that is on some small engines is the same filter that is on a car engine. On my trucks I change oil and filter every 6000 miles that's a lot more then 50 hours. How much trash do you really think a briggs 18hp single cyl that holds a quart and a half of oil gets into a filter compared to a truck engine that holds 8 quarts of oil. If the oil filter is getting stopped up after 2 oil changes then you have other problems you need to fix. If you get right down to it the filter should last 5 or 6 oil changes.

Click to expand...

Agree with this 100%. This is not exclusive to Toro whatsoever as my Ferris manual says the same thing. The engineers or whoever wouldn't put it that way if it was risky. As Carscw said you likely could use it 5 or 6 times.

DSepe

Without sounding like a broken record I hope...what about the old oil left in the filter.

Not a concern, because there's so little of it...?

Zeroturner said:

DSepe Without sounding like a broken record I hope...what about the old oil left in the filter. Not a concern, because there's so little of it...?

Click to expand...

Good question for greater minds than mine lol Personally I just change the filter also...but I don't think leaving it every other change will hurt it whatsoever especially if the manual says it's fine. Remember engineers overkill on maintenance as it is. My Dad is a engineer and says whatever they put in manuals is not even close to the actual threshold. Case in point my ladder claims it can only hold 250 max and I witnessed my 380 pound buddy on it lol all day no problems.

Look at it this way. After 50 hours the oil is still doing it's job it is just a little dirty so the little bit of oil in the filter is not going to hurt anything.

I have mowers without hour meters so I bet I never change at 50 hours.

Now on my mowers I use for work every week I change the oil every week.

They say change the oil more if mowing in dusty yards. I want to know how the dust gets in the oil?

Carscw said:

Look at it this way. After 50 hours the oil is still doing it's job it is just a little dirty so the little bit of oil in the filter is not going to hurt anything.

I have mowers without hour meters so I bet I never change at 50 hours.

Now on my mowers I use for work every week I change the oil every week.

They say change the oil more if mowing in dusty yards. I want to know how the dust gets in the oil?

Click to expand...

I sure hope dust doesn't get in the oil. It might be because of the fact that the engine works harder under "severe" conditions (i.e. dusty lawns)

None of my mowers have hour meters on them either. I just figure that my lawn tractor runs approx. 5 hours a week, 40 hours in 2 months, oil change every two months. Both push mowers run approx. 3 hours a week, 36 hours in 3 months, so I change the oil in those seasonally.

I actually just changed the oil in both the push mowers a few days ago. :tongue:

older single cylinder engines such as the cast iron Kohler and B&S never even had an oil filter,.....no oil pump either for that matter.
I have 2 of these 12 hp Kohlers powering my 72 and 73 JD 112 lawn tractors. i change the oil once a year.
I have a 1957 9 hp Cast iron B&S powering my home build pressure washer,I change oil maybe once every 3 years.
Matter of fact i never had any small engine 2.5 up to 16 hp that had an oil filter.

Bison said:

older single cylinder engines such as the cast iron Kohler and B&S never even had an oil filter,.....no oil pump either for that matter.
I have 2 of these 12 hp Kohlers powering my 72 and 73 JD 112 lawn tractors. i change the oil once a year.
I have a 1957 9 hp Cast iron B&S powering my home build pressure washer,I change oil maybe once every 3 years.
Matter of fact i never had any small engine 2.5 up to 16 hp that had an oil filter.

Click to expand...

It's a heavy duty grade thing. Makes it easier to maintain. Most small engines don't have a filter or pump my 12.5 HP Murray didn't have one but my 180cc kawi does

I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50 racing oil because it has lots of zinc in it and I use Purolator filters changed every 50-75 hours.

exotion said:

It's a heavy duty grade thing. Makes it easier to maintain. Most small engines don't have a filter or pump my 12.5 HP Murray didn't have one but my 180cc kawi does

Click to expand...

my 1954 600cc twin Norton Dominator had no oil filter either,...neither had any motorcycle of that era

I watch Eric The Car Guy on a regular basis on YouTube. He just posted a video the other day that I think you all should watch. It's 35 minutes long but it's worth watching it. I found it interesting.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FXqkOZAkXZw

Eric the car guy is awsome! I love his videos. Thanks for sharing that one.

LazerZLandscaping said:

I use Valvoline VR1 20w-50 racing oil because it has lots of zinc in it and I use Purolator filters changed every 50-75 hours.

Click to expand...

I also use Mobil 1 10w30 in my zero turns, but all my other mowers I run 20w50.

I use 10W-30 in everything. Except for my Chrysler, it takes 5W-30.

I typically use Mobil One, but after watching that one video I posted the other day, I may switch to Valvoline.

Filters, I usually flip flop between Purolator and Wix.

X-man said:

I use 10W-30 in everything. Except for my Chrysler, it takes 5W-30.

I typically use Mobil One, but after watching that one video I posted the other day, I may switch to Valvoline.

Filters, I usually flip flop between Purolator and Wix.

Click to expand...

I usually flip flop between Mopar, K&N, Purolator, and Wix.

LazerZLandscaping said:

I usually flip flop between Mopar, K&N, Purolator, and Wix.

Click to expand...

Every now and again I'll pick up a Mopar brand filter. Those aren't bad, either.

X-man said:

Every now and again I'll pick up a Mopar brand filter. Those aren't bad, either.

Click to expand...

Fram is the worst I'll never run that through any of my vehicles or equipment.

LazerZLandscaping said:

Fram is the worst I'll never run that through any of my vehicles or equipment.

Click to expand...

I agree never run a fram.

Mowers get wix
Trucks get napa gold
85 dodge gets k&n

Carscw said:

I agree never run a fram.

Mowers get wix
Trucks get napa gold
85 dodge gets k&n

Click to expand...

I like Napa Gold because they are made by Wix.

Fram has changed thru the years because of a new machine that they have that can perceive defects that the human eye can't. I just use OEM in the Ranger.

Lawnboy18 said:

Fram has changed thru the years because of a new machine that they have that can perceive defects that the human eye can't. I just use OEM in the Ranger.

Click to expand...

Fram has lots of cardboard components instead of metal.

LazerZLandscaping said:

Fram has lots of cardboard components instead of metal.

Click to expand...

Forgot about that. I do remember reading about that and also about there new machine.

LazerZLandscaping said:

Fram has lots of cardboard components instead of metal.

Click to expand...

That's exactly why I hate fram with a burning passion.

Carscw said:

I agree never run a fram.

Mowers get wix
Trucks get napa gold
85 dodge gets k&n

Click to expand...

Mower either gets purolator or wix.

More than likely my Chrysler gets a Mobil One filter. I have to take that to an oil change place so I'm not exactly sure.

LazerZLandscaping said:

Fram has lots of cardboard components instead of metal.

Click to expand...

The filter medium in spin on filters is the same in all oil filters regardless of brand.')

FRAM makes plenty of filters for companies including GM. If you watch some videos they use the same construction as many others. The metal ends making a difference is just an internet myth. A bentley comes out of the factory with cardboard ends on their filter...fact.

The thing with fram filters is they are not good for small engines or any performance engine as they restrict the flow of oil to much.

Most performance engine builders even small engines will void the warranty if you use a fram filter or a k&n air filter without a pre filter.

Carscw said:

The thing with fram filters is they are not good for small engines or any performance engine as they restrict the flow of oil to much.

Most performance engine builders even small engines will void the warranty if you use a fram filter or a k&n air filter without a pre filter.

Click to expand...

I just don't like Fram filters.

LazerZLandscaping said:

I just don't like Fram filters.

Click to expand...

Are you the guy that made the youtube video urinating on a Fram filter?

DJlawnboy said:

Are you the guy that made the youtube video urinating on a Fram filter?

Click to expand...

No.

DJlawnboy said:

Are you the guy that made the youtube video urinating on a Fram filter?

Click to expand...

I've seen that video...

Carscw said:

The thing with fram filters is they are not good for small engines or any performance engine as they restrict the flow of oil to much.

Most performance engine builders even small engines will void the warranty if you use a fram filter or a k&n air filter without a pre filter.

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Fram oil filters are no good. I do think the easy grip stuff on the outside of their filters is a good idea, but the part that counts, the inside is no good.

gfp55 said:

Fram oil filters are no good. I do think the easy grip stuff on the outside of their filters is a good idea, but the part that counts, the inside is no good.

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How many engine failures did you have because of a fram filter.???????
I had none in twenty odd years of using fram filters on my 5 GMC diesels with combined mileage well over 1.5 million K.
All these 5 trucks are still in use and running good.:wink:

Bison said:

How many engine failures did you have because of a fram filter.???????
I had none in twenty odd years of using fram filters on my 5 GMC diesels with combined mileage well over 1.5 million K.
All these 5 trucks are still in use and running good.:wink:

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I can only add that that is just me, just MY opinion.

Bison said:

How many engine failures did you have because of a fram filter.??????? I had none in twenty odd years of using fram filters on my 5 GMC diesels with combined mileage well over 1.5 million K. All these 5 trucks are still in use and running good.:wink:

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And the fram filter will work good in your trucks and cars.

But they Restrict the oil to much for a small air cooled engine.

gfp55 said:

I do think the easy grip stuff on the outside of their filters is a good idea...

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That's the only thing about Fram that I like. I wish all oil filters had that.

You can get filters that have like a nut on the end. Just use a socket.

Carscw said:

You can get filters that have like a nut on the end. Just use a socket.

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My Onan engines have the nut thingy on the filters.

Carscw said:

You can get filters that have like a nut on the end. Just use a socket.

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Every filter I've ever used has this.

exotion said:

Every filter I've ever used has this.

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Same with me.

gfp55 said:

I can only add that that is just me, just MY opinion.

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Well i don't like women with short hair.
I ain't saying they ain't any good,...lots of them have nice bodies :tongue:

Bison said:

Well i don't like women with short hair.
I ain't saying they ain't any good,...lots of them have nice bodies :tongue:

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You make a good point.

Carscw said:

And the fram filter will work good in your trucks and cars.

But they Restrict the oil to much for a small air cooled engine.

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Would a Fram work good for a tractor like a Honda HT3813, a two cylinder, liquid cooled engine.

I'm a Pennzoil fan but I don't restrict myself to it exclusively. Never had a problem with Fram either. But heck, I used to change my oil every 2000 miles and I used the inexpensive STP filters at WalMart for years. The only oil I ever purchased that I truly could tell the difference in immediately was Shell Fire & Ice. I purchased a case of it in 1977 for 10 cents a quart from a store going out of business. That was $2.40 plus tax. My fuel consumption went from 29mpg down to 18mpg on the highway and my oil was black by 500 miles. The cans were paper with metal ends and you punched the spout in them. I tried Mobil 1 when it came out but my car leaked with it and it was too expensive to keep up with that. I used the last of the Shell Fire & Ice to purge the synthetic from my car and never purchased either one of them since that experience.

clay45 said:

I'm a Pennzoil fan but I don't restrict myself to it exclusively. Never had a problem with Fram either. But heck, I used to change my oil every 2000 miles and I used the inexpensive STP filters at WalMart for years. The only oil I ever purchased that I truly could tell the difference in immediately was Shell Fire & Ice. I purchased a case of it in 1977 for 10 cents a quart from a store going out of business. That was $2.40 plus tax. My fuel consumption went from 29mpg down to 18mpg on the highway and my oil was black by 500 miles. The cans were paper with metal ends and you punched the spout in them. I tried Mobil 1 when it came out but my car leaked with it and it was too expensive to keep up with that. I used the last of the Shell Fire & Ice to purge the synthetic from my car and never purchased either one of them since that experience.

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For you young guys this is a oil can spout

This is what is on my zero turn is a Fram ph8170. As you can see these are much better quality than other Fram filters.

DJlawnboy said:

This is what is on my zero turn is a Fram ph8170. As you can see these are much better quality than other Fram filters.

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Yeah that looks pretty solid I'd say.

DJlawnboy said:

This is what is on my zero turn is a Fram ph8170. As you can see these are much better quality than other Fram filters.

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I'm just not a big Fram filter guy.

Valvoline full synthetic for every vehicle, every year. The same for my tractors.

Wix or factory filter depending on availibility.

Carscw said:

For you young guys this is a oil can spout
View attachment 22626

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:thumbsup:

That brings back memories.

Retiredcarguy said:

Valvoline full synthetic for every vehicle, every year. The same for my tractors.

Wix or factory filter depending on availibility.

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Also buy Napa Gold filters, they are manufactured by Wix. They are a good product.

Oils of the same Grade & type are pretty much all the same ... the only one I won't use is CASTROL, and it has nothing at all to do with their oil ... they sponsor John Force's racing team, and I think he is just about the most obnoxious loud-mouth drag racer in history. He reminds me of Howard Dean ... gets so caught up in what he's saying, he just stalls out and babbles some incoherent vowels !!!

:laughing:

I'll keep the party going.
I use SAE 30 in all my 4 cycle summer engines (Briggs and Kawasaki). I use SAE 5W-30 in all my snow blower and leaf blower engines (Briggs and Honda). I never used synthetic oil. If the machine has a oil filter, I change it at the end of season with the oil. I've been doing this for 35 years and I never had any oil related problem with my small engines.

My Kawasaki and Briggs & Stratton manual say to use SAE 30 at 32F or higher temp (ZTR or yard tractors, lawn mowers) , when I normally cut the grass. I use the 5W-30 (leaf blower / snow blowers) in the colder temp mainly so it starts easier. The main advantage of synthetic oil (SAE 10W-30) IMHO would be in cold start conditions like having your tractor run in the winter time plowing snow.

Now the new gas with 10% ethanol is a PITA. I had 1 snow blower carburetor rust internally because of this fuel. I now run stabil marine and I tag the gas cans. If the gas becomes 1 year old, I feed my truck the fuel to burn it off. I keep many fuel cans here full on site for my generator. You can't trust the weather or government....:laughing: