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ENGINE OIL TEMP AFTER MOWING

Aug 17, 2011#1

B

Black Bart

Tonight I mowed my lawn and before I started i checked the ambient temp with 2 digital thermometers and then I shot the the siding on the garage with my heat gun to check the calibration
It was within a 1/10th of a degree of the digital thermometers.
Ambient temp was 79.8

I fast idled it until the oil was 140 then I started mowing.

After 40 minutes the filter was 157 F and I shot the lower crankcase where the oil level would be and it was 187F.
Since air was flowing over the filter it makes sense it would read a little less.

Since I'm using 5-40 T-6 I don't think I need to bother with a oil cooler full synthetic is happy at 225F and can run at much higher.

Aug 17, 2011#2

reddragon

that sounds pretty damn good! :thumbsup:.........what mower is this and what engine does it have?

Aug 17, 2011#3

B

Black Bart

reddragon said:
that sounds pretty damn good! :thumbsup:.........what mower is this and what engine does it have?

New JD Z Trak with B&S Apparently the engine out in the open where it can get fresh air runs a lot cooler than one under a hood.

That is probably why my JD 180 has a partition kinda like a box under the hood and it fits right down on the engine air intake and it can only draw air from outside.

This makes it draw cool air not the HOT air under the hood.

Aug 18, 2011#4

EdwardBaker

Yesterday I was driving my car and when I reach office I saw the oil is getting leak from oil tank. I check all the parts but nothing found.I am not a good mechanic please help me.

Aug 18, 2011#5

B

Black Bart

EdwardBaker said:
Yesterday I was driving my car and when I reach office I saw the oil is getting leak from oil tank. I check all the parts but nothing found.I am not a good mechanic please help me.

What kind of car do you have that has a oil tank.
Only one I can think of with a dry sump is a ZR-1 Corvette.

Aug 18, 2011#6

JDgreen

EdwardBaker said:
Yesterday I was driving my car and when I reach office I saw the oil is getting leak from oil tank. I check all the parts but nothing found.I am not a good mechanic please help me.

This is a MOWER AND YARD EQUIPMENT SITE so you should not be posting auto repair questions here in the first place.

OIL TANK??????? 99.9% of cars on the road do not have an oil tank. If you are so mechanically inept you cannot figure out what part it is leaking from you obviously better take your car someplace where they know something. Do you even know it is oil? Could be coolant, could be PS fluid, could be ATF fluid, could be washer fluid.....

Aug 18, 2011#7

R

robert

I liked Ed's post and I would also like to welcome him to the forum...

BlackBart, when you say 'heat gun' what are you referring to?

Aug 18, 2011#8

B

Black Bart

robert said:
I liked Ed's post and I would also like to welcome him to the forum...

BlackBart, when you say 'heat gun' what are you referring to?

http://www.transcat.com/Catalog/productdetail.aspx?itemnum=98355TE

Aug 19, 2011#9

K

KennyV

Black Bart said:
...
Since air was flowing over the filter it makes sense it would read a little less.

Since I'm using 5-40 T-6 I don't think I need to bother with a oil cooler full synthetic is happy at 225F and can run at much higher.

Oil filters are a great place to shed heat... Larger filters will also give more area to dump heat....
Your oil looks to be running very cool...
Very Good synthetic... :smile:KennyV

Aug 19, 2011#10

JDgreen

robert said:
I liked Ed's post and I would also like to welcome him to the forum...

BlackBart, when you say 'heat gun' what are you referring to?

You liked Ed's post.....:confused2::confused2:

OK, can anybody here help me with this? I have a leak in my kitchen sink, it could be water, but I don't know if it's water or not. If it's water, can somebody tell me if it is hot or cold water? Softened water or hard water? Well water, or public water? Dirty water or clean water? I would include a picture but I don't know how to attach one. Thanks for your help, hope I was detailed enough.

Aug 19, 2011#11

R

robert

JD, I liked your post also-I didn't read that you welcomed a new member to the forum though..

Black Bart, 50:1 DS ratio?, what temp do you believe the engine oil was operating at?

Aug 19, 2011#12

JDgreen

robert said:
JD, I liked your post also-I didn't read that you welcomed a new member to the forum though..

Black Bart, 50:1 DS ratio?, what temp do you believe the engine oil was operating at?

I have done A LOT MORE WELCOMING NEW MEMBERS than most others here.

And just why does anybody post a CAR problem on a mower forum?????? I made the post about my faucet to illustrate how inane posting car problems here is.

OP should go to New Cars, Used Cars, Car Reviews and Pricing - Edmunds.com to join that site.

Aug 19, 2011#13

reddragon

JDgreen said:
You liked Ed's post.....:confused2::confused2:

OK, can anybody here help me with this? I have a leak in my kitchen sink, it could be water, but I don't know if it's water or not. If it's water, can somebody tell me if it is hot or cold water? Softened water or hard water? Well water, or public water? Dirty water or clean water? I would include a picture but I don't know how to attach one. Thanks for your help, hope I was detailed enough.

i hate to tell you....but its toilet water :laughing:

Aug 19, 2011#14

JDgreen

reddragon said:
i hate to tell you....but its toilet water :laughing:

FLYIN', FLIPPING BLEEP !!!!

That explains why the dog is drinking the stuff....:laughing:

Aug 19, 2011#15

tankdriver

My 28 hp B&S has a oil cooler built on it. It is on the left side of the engine block. It is about 4" square.

Aug 19, 2011#16

reddragon

tankdriver said:
My 28 hp B&S has a oil cooler built on it. It is on the left side of the engine block. It is about 4" square.

take some pictures....that sounds like a good start to a home made version :thumbsup:

Aug 19, 2011#17

tankdriver

I'll try to get you some this weekend.:smile:

You are correct, it shows the adapter, hoses and all.

Aug 19, 2011#18

tankdriver

OK here are a few photos of the set up of the oil cooler. By ording these parts, should be easy to install it on most any B&S that uses a spin on filter.

Aug 19, 2011#19

reddragon

could you take picture of the hood area that covers the cooler too?....thanks :thumbsup:..........theres another thing too...they make oil filter coolers that would add help too http://www.google.com/search?rlz=1C...&source=og&sa=N&hl=en&tab=wi&biw=1680&bih=949

Aug 19, 2011#20

tankdriver

reddragon said:
could you take picture of the hood area that covers the cooler too?....thanks :thumbsup:..........theres another thing too...they make oil filter coolers that would add help too oil filter cooler - Google Search

I'll get a couple tomorrow for ya.......

Aug 20, 2011#21

demhustler

reddragon said:
could you take picture of the hood area that covers the cooler too?....thanks :thumbsup:..........theres another thing too...they make oil filter coolers that would add help too oil filter cooler - Google Search

wow... - thanks, man - great ideas, and thanks for the link - good idea : ))))

Aug 20, 2011#22

R

robert

For anyone considering installing that cooler on a Briggs, I called them to get the part numbers so I could put one on my brand new Intek ELS; was told by Briggs tech service that doing so would void the warranty. I pointed out to them that every engine pictured in my ELS owners manual had the cooler installed, was told that the manual is 'generic' and that putting one on an engine which did not come from the factory with one would absolutely void the warranty-Briggs is a wonderful Company.

Aug 21, 2011#23

B

Black Bart

robert said:
For anyone considering installing that cooler on a Briggs, I called them to get the part numbers so I could put one on my brand new Intek ELS; was told by Briggs tech service that doing so would void the warranty. I pointed out to them that every engine pictured in my ELS owners manual had the cooler installed, was told that the manual is 'generic' and that putting one on an engine which did not come from the factory with one would absolutely void the warranty-Briggs is a wonderful Company.

Not hard to understand Briggs position on this. Someone cobbles up something and it pumps all the oil out and burns up the engine and then they would want Briggs to repair it under warranty.

Far to many shade tree mechanics for a company to warranty everyone's work.

Aug 21, 2011#24

R

robert

Black Bart, I agree if it was an installation error but I think most would find it interesting that Briggs has a cooler installed on EVERY Intek ELS engine pictured in my manual, Briggs has the cooler as an aftermarket part and Briggs says buying the cooler, installing it-correctly-will void the warranty.

Kohler on the other hand, lists their cooler AND an oil filter relocating setup(it is slick) and they don't care if you install one or not, but more importantly if you install one the Kohler warranty remains intact-installed correctly that is.

This brand engine v that brand engine v another brand engine discussions will continue forever, and that is fine as it is interesting to me, and as many mention it pretty much comes down to preference/opinion. However the voiding the warranty nonsense with the addition of an genuine Briggs part on an engine which is pictured multiple times in the owners manual with that part installed is a very very valid reason to call it what it is, stupid and ridiculous-many substitute very non complimentary words for B/S, and Briggs has earned this practice.

Should anyone doubt what I type just take a look at your late model Intek ELS owners manual or, should you be fortunate and NOT own a Briggs ELS download one from the Briggs site and see for yourself, to make matters more confusing my manual even lists the cooler part number as an option/accessory-they really are ultra maroons.

Aug 21, 2011#25

tankdriver

reddragon said:
could you take picture of the hood area that covers the cooler too?....thanks :thumbsup:..........theres another thing too...they make oil filter coolers that would add help too oil filter cooler - Google Search

Here are the photos of the outside and inside of the area where the cooler is installed.

Aug 21, 2011#26

tankdriver

robert said:
Black Bart, I agree if it was an installation error but I think most would find it interesting that Briggs has a cooler installed on EVERY Intek ELS engine pictured in my manual, Briggs has the cooler as an aftermarket part and Briggs says buying the cooler, installing it-correctly-will void the warranty.

Kohler on the other hand, lists their cooler AND an oil filter relocating setup(it is slick) and they don't care if you install one or not, but more importantly if you install one the Kohler warranty remains intact-installed correctly that is.

This brand engine v that brand engine v another brand engine discussions will continue forever, and that is fine as it is interesting to me, and as many mention it pretty much comes down to preference/opinion. However the voiding the warranty nonsense with the addition of an genuine Briggs part on an engine which is pictured multiple times in the owners manual with that part installed is a very very valid reason to call it what it is, stupid and ridiculous-many substitute very non complimentary words for B/S, and Briggs has earned this practice.

Should anyone doubt what I type just take a look at your late model Intek ELS owners manual or, should you be fortunate and NOT own a Briggs ELS download one from the Briggs site and see for yourself, to make matters more confusing my manual even lists the cooler part number as an option/accessory-they really are ultra maroons.

Did you ask him why it would void it?

Aug 21, 2011#27

R

robert

Yes I did and the answer was because since my Intek did not come from the factory with the cooler adding one is considered to be a 'modification'. And in case anyone is wondering the Exmark dealer also called and inquired and the parts manager was told that no cooler was available for the Intek ELS-amazing or what? :confused2:

Aug 21, 2011#28

reddragon

tankdriver said:
Here are the photos of the outside and inside of the area where the cooler is installed.

thanks for the pics!.....i guess you could call that a passive cooler then....."just get it out of the engine for a while" approach.....it probably only drops it 10 degrees or so.......but may be a critical 10 degrees.:wink:..by the way that PGT 9000 is a solid mower....something to keep around for a long time! :thumbsup:

Aug 21, 2011#29

tankdriver

reddragon said:
thanks for the pics!.....i guess you could call that a passive cooler then....."just get it out of the engine for a while" approach.....it probably only drops it 10 degrees or so.......but may be a critical 10 degrees.:wink:..by the way that PGT 9000 is a solid mower....something to keep around for a long time! :thumbsup:

The vent I show in the front of the hood is inline with the cooler. I have not checked to see if it is a draw or out going air flow. But it looks like they pointed it at the cooler. With the dust on the inside of the hood, looks like air comes in through it. I'll check it tomorrow.

Aug 21, 2011#30

JDgreen

tankdriver said:
The vent I show in the front of the hood is inline with the cooler. I have not checked to see if it is a draw or out going air flow. But it looks like they pointed it at the cooler. With the dust on the inside of the hood, looks like air comes in through it. I'll check it tomorrow.

Just out of curiosity, what is the oil capacity of your engine? Also, how much oil do you think the cooler itself holds by itself? I really think an oil cooler is a great idea (my GMC has one because of the factory tow pkg) but have never really seen one on a garden tractor. Hence my queries, I am wondering how much extra oil is added to the total capacity by having the cooler. Thanks. Think it was Black Bart who told us that having a bigger oil filter added oil capacity compared to a standard filter, so....

Aug 22, 2011#31

R

robert

I am interested in both the capacity of the cooler and the DP across the cooler; my guess is that the resistance to flow is negligible but it should be checked as the pump capacity is most likely very limited.

At any rate this is probably the single most important change anyone could make, though everyone who operates in cool weather should keep in mind that it may be a disadvantage when it gets cold-but it would be easy to cover the cooler when temps drop to avoid the very real problem of oil not getting up to temp.

Aug 22, 2011#32

K

KennyV

robert said:
... the very real problem of oil not getting up to temp.

See ... Another reason to use a good Synthetic... No flow problems when Cold... :smile:KennyV

Aug 22, 2011#33

B

Black Bart

robert said:
I am interested in both the capacity of the cooler and the DP across the cooler; my guess is that the resistance to flow is negligible but it should be checked as the pump capacity is most likely very limited.

At any rate this is probably the single most important change anyone could make, though everyone who operates in cool weather should keep in mind that it may be a disadvantage when it gets cold-but it would be easy to cover the cooler when temps drop to avoid the very real problem of oil not getting up to temp.

You could do what I did with my Corvette I have a thermostat that only routes oil through the cooler when it reaches 180F

Aug 22, 2011#34

tankdriver

robert said:
I am interested in both the capacity of the cooler and the DP across the cooler; my guess is that the resistance to flow is negligible but it should be checked as the pump capacity is most likely very limited.

At any rate this is probably the single most important change anyone could make, though everyone who operates in cool weather should keep in mind that it may be a disadvantage when it gets cold-but it would be easy to cover the cooler when temps drop to avoid the very real problem of oil not getting up to temp.

Briggs says 64 oz.

Aug 22, 2011#35

reddragon

with old style oil....cooler temps can create sludge......but with synthetic..its greatly reduced...just another reason to run the good stuff! :thumbsup:

Aug 23, 2011#36

R

robert

Now an oil cooler with a solinoid bypass would be cool...

With regard to synthetic oil; I have become a 100% believer in a certain brand of syn products-lets leave the name out so as to avoid the usual shift in topic (this Company was the first to bring to the consumer market a synthtic oil) and they are very good in providing tech help, especially to the 'preferrred' customer base. We operate a number of diesel vehicles, which I am responsible for maintaing and a few years ago I decided to try a 10-30 diesel synthetic oil for fuel economy reasons (I read that every engine is designed around the performance specs of a 10/30) anyway, finding a 10-30 diesel engine oil with a 12 tbn rating got my interest and I sent an email to the Company asking specifically if this oil flowed better at low temps than a dino 10/30 and the answer surprised me-no it does not; a 10/30 syn is a 10/30 dino with regard to flow. I did try the 10/30 and was quite surprised at the results; while the fuel economy did improve by about 1 mpg (previous oil was a 15/40 diesel spec synthetic) the engines with heui systems (read Ford 6.0 psd) 'seemed' to take a few more cranks to start, not many but just a few-no change in oil consumption.

Of course I will recommend anyone follow the manufacturers recommendations with regard to engine oil, but if your manual includes an approval for a 10-30 grade of diesel for current operating conditions I would suggest you give it a try if you have not alread done so, you may be as surprised as I was.

AND as a point of interest for those who are diesel people, the '06/'07 6.0 Ford Powerstrokes are some of the best engines we have every owned. Ironic that Ford/International finally fixed the engine then Ford stopped using it. Yes previous versions were a crap shoot, usually not a good roll, but man did they finally get it right.

Double AND, yes this Ford owner will admit that the DMax and Cummins for that matter are 'better' engines-have at me boys.

Aug 23, 2011#37

B

Black Bart

robert said:
Now an oil cooler with a solinoid bypass would be cool...

With regard to synthetic oil; I have become a 100% believer in a certain brand of syn products-lets leave the name out so as to avoid the usual shift in topic (this Company was the first to bring to the consumer market a synthtic oil) and they are very good in providing tech help, especially to the 'preferrred' customer base. We operate a number of diesel vehicles, which I am responsible for maintaing and a few years ago I decided to try a 10-30 diesel synthetic oil for fuel economy reasons (I read that every engine is designed around the performance specs of a 10/30) anyway, finding a 10-30 diesel engine oil with a 12 tbn rating got my interest and I sent an email to the Company asking specifically if this oil flowed better at low temps than a dino 10/30 and the answer surprised me-no it does not; a 10/30 syn is a 10/30 dino with regard to flow. I did try the 10/30 and was quite surprised at the results; while the fuel economy did improve by about 1 mpg (previous oil was a 15/40 diesel spec synthetic) the engines with heui systems (read Ford 6.0 psd) 'seemed' to take a few more cranks to start, not many but just a few-no change in oil consumption.

Of course I will recommend anyone follow the manufacturers recommendations with regard to engine oil, but if your manual includes an approval for a 10-30 grade of diesel for current operating conditions I would suggest you give it a try if you have not alread done so, you may be as surprised as I was.

AND as a point of interest for those who are diesel people, the '06/'07 6.0 Ford Powerstrokes are some of the best engines we have every owned. Ironic that Ford/International finally fixed the engine then Ford stopped using it. Yes previous versions were a crap shoot, usually not a good roll, but man did they finally get it right.

Double AND, yes this Ford owner will admit that the DMax and Cummins for that matter are 'better' engines-have at me boys.

10-30 will slightly improve the mpg over the 40 regardless of brand.
For those that don't know Robert is talking about AMSOIL

Aug 23, 2011#38

JDgreen

Robert, in your opinion, why are certain diesel engines troublesome? Poor design, careless manufacturing, failure to test before putting on the market, or whatever?

I have always been a huge fan of the 5.9 Cummins myself, when I drove trucks for a living that engine was my favorite of the medium duty diesels available in the fleet. Dead reliable, whatever vehicle it was installed in.

Aug 23, 2011#39

RobertBrown

JDgreen said:
Robert, in your opinion, why are certain diesel engines troublesome? Poor design, careless manufacturing, failure to test before putting on the market, or whatever?

I have always been a huge fan of the 5.9 Cummins myself, when I drove trucks for a living that engine was my favorite of the medium duty diesels available in the fleet. Dead reliable, whatever vehicle it was installed in.

Great Engine! But.. not worth having to buy a Dodge to get it.

Aug 23, 2011#40

B

Black Bart

RobertBrown said:
Great Engine! But.. not worth having to buy a Dodge to get it.

Well said I couldn't agree more. :laughing:

Aug 23, 2011#41

tankdriver

RobertBrown said:
Great Engine! But.. not worth having to buy a Dodge to get it.

Hey, now you gone to melding......

I love my Dodges My wifes Grand Caravan has over 298,000. My Doge Ram has over 230,000. Both have been great vehicles. Bigest expense on the wife's was a Radiator.

Best enging ever made IMHO is the Dodge Slan Six, You can't kill it with a sledge hammer....:smile:

Aug 23, 2011#42

JDgreen

tankdriver said:
Hey, now you gone to melding......

I love my Dodges My wifes Grand Caravan has over 298,000. My Doge Ram has over 230,000. Both have been great vehicles. Bigest expense on the wife's was a Radiator.

Best enging ever made IMHO is the Dodge Slan Six, You can't kill it with a sledge hammer....:smile:

Horse Puckey !!! Either Ford 4.9 straight six, or GM 3.8 V6.

Aug 23, 2011#43

R

robert

JD, the Cummins 5.9 (?) is the best diesel engine of its size ever made period and I wish my truck had this rather than the Ford-but when you're choice is either a 6.0 or V10, is there really any choice to be made? Running a very close second, for its class, is the GM DMax, but for me I'll take ' six for sure everytime', old time leo's will understand that statement..... The GM is a work of art BUT why have eight when six gets the job done - better?

With regard to the Ford 6.0, the well documented 'failures' have mostly been head gaskets BUT the vast majority of those problems seem to have been self inflicted due to owners using performance chips, or rather this is the association I have seen reading posts. But, there have also been numerous issues reported by fleet operators, mostly ambulance companies.
I only know that the truck I use, an '07 with 78,000 miles on it runs flawlessly, uses not a drop of oil between its 5,000 changes-synthetic since 1,000 miles however it has no mods at all.
The best diesels we have had was the original 5 cyl MB used in the Sprinter vans and the numberous VW TDI's, all 1.9's-7 total.

BlackBart, yes the Company is Amsoil and I have gone from being the biggest critic (I always called it 'scamsoil') to one of the brands biggest promoters and I only use it for our own vehicles-and all our power equipment-I am not a dealer.

Aug 23, 2011#44

reddragon

JDgreen said:
Horse Puckey !!! Either Ford 4.9 straight six, or GM 3.8 V6.

the 300 ford 6 is one of my favorite engines of all time....just a beautiful example of the breed..stock they weren't much to yell about....but with some basic upgrades....just AWESOME!

Aug 23, 2011#45

JDgreen

reddragon said:
the 300 ford 6 is one of my favorite engines of all time....just a beautiful example of the breed..stock they weren't much to yell about....but with some basic upgrades....just AWESOME!

I have a '90 F150 regular cab stored in my barn, purchased it new, it had the E4OD and injected 4.9 six and 3.08 gears. Stored it in '02 after the fuel tanks began leaking. Factory tow rating was 5,000 pounds. I added a Flowmaster exhaust, secondary trans cooler, secondary electric cooling fan, and it would tow my 6400 lb travel trailer anyplace I wanted and deliver 11.5 mpg in the process. Solo, it would give me 18-19 on the freeway. Have always loved the torque a straight-six engine will deliver.

Aug 23, 2011#46

reddragon

its just a damned beautiful engine...i guess im biased about strait sixes though:biggrin:

Aug 23, 2011#47

B

Black Bart

The slant 6 was one of the best engines Mopar ever built but it was not nearly as good as the Ford 300
in-line 6 it was an awesome engine.

My thread has been taken so far off topic that anyone that clicks on this thread thinking it is about oil temp is in for a surprise.

Aug 23, 2011#48

JDgreen

Black Bart said:
The slant 6 was one of the best engines Mopar ever built but it was not nearly as good as the Ford 300
in-line 6 it was an awesome engine.

My thread has been taken so far off topic that anyone that clicks on this thread thinking it is about oil temp is in for a surprise.

I started a thread in TBN about a cat owner who killed the dog that attacked her cat and it is weaving all over the place. I enjoy threads that meander, those are so interesting. BTW that slant-6 225 engine would really be something if it were modded and upgraded with new technology, my girlfriend had a '74 Duster, the engine was slow but super reliable and easy to work on.

Aug 23, 2011#49

B

Black Bart

JDgreen said:
I started a thread in TBN about a cat owner who killed the dog that attacked her cat and it is weaving all over the place. I enjoy threads that meander, those are so interesting. BTW that slant-6 225 engine would really be something if it were modded and upgraded with new technology, my girlfriend had a '74 Duster, the engine was slow but super reliable and easy to work on.

I know a guy that has a slant-6 in a 34 Ford street rod it has a cam and dual carbs you should see the look on peoples face when he raises the hood.

OH Yea he gets awesome fuel mileage.

Aug 23, 2011#50

R

robert

Didn't that Ford 6 have wrist pin issues?
I agree about topics taking on a second, third or fourth life, so to speak.

Aug 23, 2011#51

reddragon

the main things with 300-6 is press in rocker studs [not screw in]...and cheapie rockers....also they never came with big valves and carbs were always single throats....but the ports flowed damn good......and the rest is easily upgraded...they came with timing gears not chains....replacing the aluminum gear is common.....and cast alum. pistons [also easy upgrade when rebuilding]...the later fuel inj. cast iron headers are a great cheap add on...add the 4bbl offy intake and roller cam and rockers [maybe an aluminum valve to] and you have one awesome 6 banger :biggrin:

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