Electrical woes

T

TxTodd

Member
Good evening. I am at a loss. I would like to begin by saying that automotive electrical is not my best subject. I try, but I end up with a mess usually, or I feel like everything works against me to create unique and unheard of issues. All that to say I need major help. I will try to cover everything I have done up until this point, because I may have messed something up along the way. Here we go:

2013 Ariens A22H46 lawn mower.

Lots of backfiring and battery kept draining. I replaced the coils and plugs, battery, major cleaning of the carb, changed oil. Battery was on the charger. Seemed to help, but then she started backfiring again and then wouldn't start. Bought a new battery and she ran great, then mower blades wouldn't engage and she wouldn't start anymore.

Replaced electric PTO switch and ignition switch and solenoid. Charged battery. Worked for a while until the PTO just quit. Read that it might be alternator so sure enough, not charging battery when checked with multimeter. Replaced stator and voltage regulator, checked inline 20 amp fuse (still good), still not charging battery. Don't know what else to do and don't know how to use a multimeter to its full potential.

To recap, these are the items that have been replaced with new parts: (and I bought them all from Amazon, but they seemed to be small businesses working with Amazon)

Ignition switch
PTO switch
solenoid
coils and plugs
stator
voltage regulator
checked fuse and it is good

still no charge at battery when engine is running. And battery is now showing 10.75 volts and will continuously drop voltage when it is running, no blades engaged or lights on.

I have bypassed the safety switch in the seat because it had finally given up the ghost. I bypassed it by removing the metal sleeve type thing in the harness under the seat. I saw a video on it but can't remember any more details about it.

Oh, and the ignition switch seems backwards. I used to have to turn it back one position to keep the blades engaged while backing up, that position has changed now. I no longer have to turn it back, and if I do, the blades will disengage when backing up. It's like the poles have reversed or something.

I think that is it. Again, I am not the best at automotive electrical and could really use some help. I want to learn because I know this hinders me and I won't let it beat me. Thanks for any advice.
 
TxTodd said:
Good evening. I am at a loss. I would like to begin by saying that automotive electrical is not my best subject. I try, but I end up with a mess usually, or I feel like everything works against me to create unique and unheard of issues. All that to say I need major help. I will try to cover everything I have done up until this point, because I may have messed something up along the way. Here we go:

2013 Ariens A22H46 lawn mower.

Lots of backfiring and battery kept draining. I replaced the coils and plugs, battery, major cleaning of the carb, changed oil. Battery was on the charger. Seemed to help, but then she started backfiring again and then wouldn't start. Bought a new battery and she ran great, then mower blades wouldn't engage and she wouldn't start anymore.

Replaced electric PTO switch and ignition switch and solenoid. Charged battery. Worked for a while until the PTO just quit. Read that it might be alternator so sure enough, not charging battery when checked with multimeter. Replaced stator and voltage regulator, checked inline 20 amp fuse (still good), still not charging battery. Don't know what else to do and don't know how to use a multimeter to its full potential.

To recap, these are the items that have been replaced with new parts: (and I bought them all from Amazon, but they seemed to be small businesses working with Amazon)

Ignition switch
PTO switch
solenoid
coils and plugs
stator
voltage regulator
checked fuse and it is good

still no charge at battery when engine is running. And battery is now showing 10.75 volts and will continuously drop voltage when it is running, no blades engaged or lights on.

I have bypassed the safety switch in the seat because it had finally given up the ghost. I bypassed it by removing the metal sleeve type thing in the harness under the seat. I saw a video on it but can't remember any more details about it.

Oh, and the ignition switch seems backwards. I used to have to turn it back one position to keep the blades engaged while backing up, that position has changed now. I no longer have to turn it back, and if I do, the blades will disengage when backing up. It's like the poles have reversed or something.

I think that is it. Again, I am not the best at automotive electrical and could really use some help. I want to learn because I know this hinders me and I won't let it beat me. Thanks for any advice.
Click to expand...
Check your grounds again. Stop throwing parts at it and take it to a shop if you are stumped.
 
Need the six digit model from serial number tag or the Husqvarna 96............ model number from the same tag.

But the blades disengaging in reverse is normal.

Btw a customer had spent over $300 in parts. And finally brought it into my shop where I found it was $2.50 part that was the root cause. Sometimes it is better to pay a little in labor than cleaning out your bank account buying unnecessary parts.
 
Last edited:
StarTech said:
Need the six digit model from serial number tag or the Husqvarna 96............ model number from the same tag.

But the blades disengaging in reverse is normal.

Btw a customer had spent over $300 in parts. And finally brought it into my shop where I found it was $2.50 part that was the root cause. Sometimes it is better to pay a little in labor than cleaning out your bank account buying unnecessary parts.
Click to expand...
Model # 93605300/A22H46 Serial # 013012A008475

And regarding the blades disengaging in reverse, I know that is a safety feature, was just pointing out that when I replaced the ignition switch the position to keep the blades engaged changed. Didn't know if that might contribute to an electrical issue somewhere else.

As far as me cleaning out my bank account buying parts, if the original parts are still good then I will have spare parts laying around that I can use later if I can keep the mower going another 13 years, and considering the age of the mower and that I've never replaced anything on it except batteries and blades, spending a little money and doing a little tune up isn't going to harm it. I might have spent that much in parts and labor anyway, who knows. I am not opposed to taking it to a shop, but I came on her to try and learn something before I take that step. I was hoping I could gain some insight on electrical since I know it's not my strong point, but it seems like the responses I've gotten so far are just to take it to the shop instead of gaining a little knowledge.

Appreciate your response.
 
TxTodd said:
To recap, these are the items that have been replaced with new parts: (and I bought them all from Amazon, but they seemed to be small businesses working with Amazon)

Ignition switch
PTO switch
solenoid
coils and plugs
stator
voltage regulator
checked fuse and it is good
Click to expand...
Every part you listed needs double tested to confirm they work. The double part is you bought from amazon and saved all that money LOL.
 
Tiger Small Engine said:
Check your grounds again. Stop throwing parts at it and take it to a shop if you are stumped.
Click to expand...
I will check them again. I've only checked battery ground and cleaned where the voltage regulator bolts to the engine.

I will take it to a shop if we can't figure it out on this forum, which is what I was hoping for when I posted. I suppose listing the parts I've replaced wasn't the smartest thing to do because that's all anyone is focusing on. I thought listing the parts would help diagnose the problem, but I also don't mind spending money on my mower since I haven't had to do any major work on it since purchasing it. Figured after 13 years, some of these things were bound to start failing so it's a win/win for me. But since I've replaced everything and still having problems, was wanting a little guidance on fixing it myself since I don't want to take it to a shop every time something goes wrong with it if it's something I very well could fix myself if I had the knowledge. And that's why I am here, to learn, if possible, from people who have more knowledge than I do.

Appreciate the suggestion to check the grounds again. Will do that when I get home from work. Hopefully that is all it is.
 
slomo said:
Every part you listed needs double tested to confirm they work. The double part is you bought from amazon and saved all that money LOL.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm thinking that could very well be some of the problem. You know how it is, they can get the parts the next day so it seems like a great deal. I should know better by now. Is there a place you recommend? Should I just buy from Ariens directly? I've called the place I bought it from and they said they can try to get parts, but lately it's been hit or miss on availability. I didn't ask why because it isn't my business, just took them at their word. And I know I could probably check all the parts with a multimeter, but I don't know how to use a multimeter to it's full capacity. I understand resistance and open loops and such, but that's just the basics.
 
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