All good!
I sharpen blades nice and sharp. They only get dull from there, so why not sharpen them nice and sharp? I realize the blade is more susceptible to nicks, etc. the sharper they are. I do not balance blades.All good!
Some perhaps obvious points when balancing:
Good Luck!
- Clean the blade thoroughly.
- Use sharpening the first 10-30 mm from tip (less is best) as the reduction in weight, on the heavy end.
- When sharpening, go for a 45 or more blunt degree edge, as this will last longer than something less.
- If the blade is near balanced, use judgement to decide if its worth trying to make perfect (remeber, in work, it will wear/chip & collect material quit quickly ie change the balance.)
- Vibration is not always balance related, it could be a bearing on the way out, check for movement
Where would you find a shop that does this? Most shops use the cheap cone balancers. You're lucky if you find one that uses an Oregon-type magnetic balancer. I don't know of any dynamic balancers for sale anywhere. This is a great concept, but not practical in practice.The next step is dynamic balancing, which takes into account the rotational forced acting on the system. If your dynamic balance is out, no amount of static balancing will fix it.
This is the one that I use. Purchased it at auction from a retired mower shops estate sale about 25 years ago
This one is not dynamic. It's like the magnetic Oregon balancer, which is the best thing I've found commercially. A dynamic balancer would be MUCH more expensive.
I don't disagree that dynamic balancing is the Holy Grail of balancing. However, at 3600 RPMs, I've found that my Oregon magnetic balancer is better than a cheap cone balancer, and makes a difference. I had a blade on a push mower that was causing vibrations, even after balancing with a cone balancer. Once I balanced it with my Oregon balancer, the vibrations went away. So in this case, a push mower running 3600 RPMs, good static balancing was good enough.
