Engine Did I Break Camshaft Gear or Lobe on Camshaft? HELP!

brownfox

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I am new to the Forum and have a very general 4 stroke engine question. I left 10% ethanol gas with fuel additive in my Troybilt Generator (Briggs and Stratton Engine 6.5 HP) way too long and the residue completely froze my fuel intake valve stem. I pulled on the starter cord several times and it was a lot harder to pull than I remembered from the past. I did remove the OHV cover and detect that the intake valve was frozen and not moving any, just the exhaust valve, when I pulled a few more times on the cord. The rocker arm and everything was just stationary on the intake side. Then I used some carburetor cleaner, penetrating oil to loosen the valve stem and it began operating up and down again when I pulled the cord. It appears that on the compression stroke that both valves are open part of the time and I think the timing of the valves opening has been totally altered. Is it possible that I broke one or some of those little plastic/nylon cogs that are part of the camshaft assembly for the intake valve? I think the intake valve was frozen closed and the rocker arm was frozen when it received the push from the steel rod to open the intake valve (compress the spring). It does look to me like something had to give when that rod could not push the rocker to compress the spring. Like I said, the question is very general and most any 4 cycle engine mechanic can tell me yes or no. Thanks for your input.
brownfox
 

mechanic mark

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brownfox

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I have some numbers from the engine: 031014 FE then below that: 1203120145 E1. The generator model is 01924 Rev 02.
 

tigercat

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If you see the valves working up and down, I don't think you bent anything. The water in the gas is what rusted the valve closed.

I would check and if needed reset your valves to proper clearances using a feeler gauge then remove your carb and clean it up. Change your oil and fire the engine up. In the future don't store fuel in the engine. Even stabil marine (blue colored for ethanol fuel) is only good for 12 months of storage. I use stabil marine but still I run the carb dry. I hate fixing things that don't need fixing....
 

brownfox

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I am still wondering if there is anyone out there who can tell me whether my camshaft/valve opening and closing is busted. I have cleaned tank and carb, put new fuel in, tried to set the valves but have run into a problem that when my piston is in the top dead center (looking and feeling through the spark plug hole) my intake valve rocker has that valve springs for both valves pressed down and the valves half opened. The only place I can find the tension off both my rocker arms and the valve rotators is when the piston is at or very near the bottom of the stroke. I was expecting to find that when the piston was at top dead center both my intake and exhaust valves would be fully closed with the ability to insert a feeler gauge for valve setting. I seem to be able to find that place where rocker arms have enough tension removed to create a measurable gap is when the piston is down, down, down farthest from top dead center. That is what makes me think the nylon or plastic timing part or parts (maybe even cam lobe) have broken. I am hoping a mechanic can tell me that the valves should both be closed at top dead center or both open at top dead center.
 

tigercat

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At top dead center rotating the engine clockwise, both valves are closed. Slip a screw driver into the spark plug hole and rotate the engine. When the piston is at the highest point your at TDC.
Is it a OHV engine?


edit to add

If OHV this is how to adjust the valves. I didn't watch the the whole thing, but I'm sure Donyboy gave the basics.

http://youtu.be/0cWoEk5Guos
 
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