Devilbiss excell model exgh5010-2 Generator
- Thread starter Mark H_NO
- Start date
Friday morning update. The rod from governor arm to throttle are was pretty snug at the throttle end. I lightly sanded and got it moving more freely, and lubed the pivot points for both arms and it cut down on the amount of surging. It must have been binding a little. I also adjusted the low idle screw a turn or so to limit the range. I adjusted the spring till the rpm was around 3500 to 3700. I think it settles down some under load. I'll check that. I'm changing oil, don't remember ever doing that, though the oil looks decent. It's not deep black yet.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hello M.,
Aftermarket carburetors often have a tight linkage end fit that will stump a person. Aftermarket carburetors only claim they will fit, but no mention of working correctly, especially under a load.
Sounds like you are on the right path though.
It is best to set the readings on a portable generator using a Kill-O-Watt plug in tester so you can read the actual Hertz and voltage output. Unloaded usually reads around 61.5 Hertz/ 120-125V at 3600 RPM and drops slightly below when under electrical load. The voltage will be calibrated by the AVR if it is working correctly.
Watch some of the videos by James Condon that I mentioned earlier. It really helps.
Note: The oil is the "lifeblood" of any air-cooled generator engine. Plan on changing it once a year regardless and be sure to give it a "run exercise" under load once a month for at least 30 minutes.
Never trust the engine oil by looks alone, if it turns "black" that would mean serious wear, poor running conditions and neglect. New oil once a season also means more life for your generator and less problems when you need to rely on it in bad conditions.
As the economy has gotten tighter, small engine equipment, especially portable generators tend to get neglected more than ever. The manufacturers bank on people neglecting and abusing them.... Ever notice how retail stores stock up on them quickly when bad weather is predicted? That is no accident.
Aftermarket carburetors often have a tight linkage end fit that will stump a person. Aftermarket carburetors only claim they will fit, but no mention of working correctly, especially under a load.
Sounds like you are on the right path though.
It is best to set the readings on a portable generator using a Kill-O-Watt plug in tester so you can read the actual Hertz and voltage output. Unloaded usually reads around 61.5 Hertz/ 120-125V at 3600 RPM and drops slightly below when under electrical load. The voltage will be calibrated by the AVR if it is working correctly.
Watch some of the videos by James Condon that I mentioned earlier. It really helps.
Note: The oil is the "lifeblood" of any air-cooled generator engine. Plan on changing it once a year regardless and be sure to give it a "run exercise" under load once a month for at least 30 minutes.
Never trust the engine oil by looks alone, if it turns "black" that would mean serious wear, poor running conditions and neglect. New oil once a season also means more life for your generator and less problems when you need to rely on it in bad conditions.
As the economy has gotten tighter, small engine equipment, especially portable generators tend to get neglected more than ever. The manufacturers bank on people neglecting and abusing them.... Ever notice how retail stores stock up on them quickly when bad weather is predicted? That is no accident.
Put a rag down to catch the gas. Drop the bowl. Would be nice if you had a shut off valve to control the gas leak. Look at the float and see when it closes off the fuel. Float arm should be parallel or just under parallel to the bowl mounting flange. By just under I mean the float shuts off below parallel, just a tick. Carb on engine as in real use.
Most of my old mowers are rich runners. I do this to slightly lean them down. Doesn't really work. Probably people in the past using drill bits or welding rod tip cleaners to open the jets up. Works on Holley carbs.
Thanks Auto Doc's and slomo. Both helpful. I was just looking at it and as it surged, I got the idea it was overcorrecting, and checked for free movement. It is much better. I believe a buddy has a good tester, all I have is a VOM, and a EE degree. I'm working on leaky gas tank next. It's plastic, and I was going to try a couple JB Weld products that are supposed to be good with plastic and fuel. I have a non leaky tank as alternative, I just have to adapt it to the frame, as it's a couple inches smaller in width.
Auto Doc's
Lawn Addict
Hi Mark,
If it has a cracked or rusted through tank, replace it.
All JB weld and other epoxy products do are slow a leak down, they do not resist fuels. (I've tried them all)
The only thing that I have seen that works with sealing fuel leaks on a tank are aviation specialty tank sealers and that stuff is very expensive.
If it has a cracked or rusted through tank, replace it.
All JB weld and other epoxy products do are slow a leak down, they do not resist fuels. (I've tried them all)
The only thing that I have seen that works with sealing fuel leaks on a tank are aviation specialty tank sealers and that stuff is very expensive.
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Don't waste your time and money on JB. Get some plastic welding rods. SAME material as the tank. I'm fixing my trimmer tank waiting on some HDPE rods. Look on yours for the material type. Should be HDPE???
If so, these are very slick plastics. Getting at epoxies don't stick well even scuffing the tank up. Probably the reason why yours leaked 3 years later??
Best repairs are same type rods as the plastic or a new tank.
If you get a plastic welding iron, get one with a hole in the tip that you can insert the rod in and melt away.
How about this one? https://short-url.org/1x6KY
(warning, link to amazon)
(warning, link to amazon)