Thanks.....my cylinders are within tolerance. I can stay with standard just need to carefully hone off the "glaze".View attachment 73594
Can go .020 oversize.
Thanks for the suggestions. Interesting comment about not using synthetic oil initially. I am interested why you suggested that?Hello B.,
Use only a fine hone (320 grit) lightly and scrub the cylinder wall(s) really well with dish-soap and water to get all the oil and glaze stone and metal deposits out of the inside of the engine.... Wiping with a rag only gets the heavy stuff.
If you can "eat off of it", then it is clean enough to start rebuilding. Coat everything with plenty of SAE 30 or 10W-30 oil during reassembly. Do not use grease or any heavy oil additive like STP
Run SAE 30 or 10W-30 for break in for a few hours (about 10 hours) then change the oil again. This will help remove any wear-in deposits that come from the rings and cylinders.
I do not recommend synthetic oil on a newly rebuilt engine regardless of what any advertising may say. Wait at least the 50-hour mark before considering synthetic oil.
Hello B.,Thanks for the suggestions. Interesting comment about not using synthetic oil initially. I am interested why you suggested that?
thanks again,
bartles
Makes sense....I was with Cat when they introduced a medium speed engine, 10" , bore for high horsepower applications like Mississippi river line haul tow boats. Initial installations complained about high oil consumption....the fix was to "plateau" hone the liners...too much oil was getting left in the honed grooves.Hello B.,
I don't recommend synthetic oil for a break-in after honing and new rings are installed because it is too "slick" and delays proper ring to cylinder wear in. This is also why initial oil changes are critical so the "sludge" can be flushed out with the break-in oil
There are exceptions to new factory automotive engines because of the cylinder coating technology now being used.