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Cutting Heights

#1

D

Dalmatian

What height do you cut at? I've heard different things from different people. Some say no less than 3" so that the grass will be able to have and maintain a good root system. Thoughts?


#2

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

I cut at 3 inches, but half the time it is out of necessity because the grass gets so tall! :laughing:


#3

Ric

Ric

Before you ask what would be the best height to cut your grass, determine your grass type. Grass cutting heights are determined by the type of grass you're cutting. Different grasses such as Bahia can be cut between 2 1/2 to 4", Bermuda 1/2" to 2 1/2", St. Augustine between 2 1/2" to 3 1/2 ". Other conditions such as weather, location and time of year can also determine cutting height.


#4

C

chn

Depends on what type of grass really
like zoysia, you don't wanna cut it any lower than the 2nd and 3rd wheel settings on a standard 9 setting mower. weeds it doesn't matter really, I cut it on the lowest setting and it's still a green carpet.
for a good looking lawn, whatever setting makes it look good without causing it to brown out by being short is ok, except fescue and grasses like this, they do better when cut higher. but if your yard is like mine (weeds) I hate it getting out of hand so I keep it cut as low as I can, the sun would save me some trouble if it would just burn it


#5

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

chn said:
but if your yard is like mine (weeds) I hate it getting out of hand so I keep it cut as low as I can, the sun would save me some trouble if it would just burn it
Click to expand...

I agree! :biggrin:


#6

EngineMan

EngineMan

If you cut it too short all you end up with is weeds, and weeds don't give the grass any hope...:frown:


#7

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

Well my lawn is past the point of it having a chance to get better, so I can cut it as short as I want! haha:laughing:


#8

C

chn

my yard has no hope, I have 1.25 acre atleast to cut, I will admit though that I have a few sections of St Augustine but I would have to flow up the whole yard and reseed. I'm cool with the weeds.


#9

Ric

Ric

I don' know about other places or parts of the country but here the lawns in most subdivisions are St. Augustine front and sides and Bahia grass for the back yards so we're cutting two different heights when doing lawns.


#10

T

Tombstonebilly

:wink: I just cut the little bit I have next to the street as high as my push mower will go, it looks like its spreading an filling in real nice. My murry rider I cant get it to cut very high I'm thinking of getting some chain and pulling the deck up to where I would like.Local shop says the only way to get it higher is put bigger tires but thats to much money :eek: when my tires now are in good shape. By the way its an old rear eng. 30" 10hp.


#11

J

jenkinsph

I mow fescue in my locale about 3 1/2 to 4 inches in the summer and let it grow to about 6 inches tall between mowings. In late fall when it slows down its growth considerably I will trim it lower about 2 1/2 then apply winterizer and additional seed. Cover this with a very light layer of top dressing and smooth out any divots from the years mowing. In the spring I will mow it close again and dethatch, vacuum up and water up good. Weeds don't have much of a chance if the grass roots are thick they are choked out.


#12

scott47429

scott47429

i cut all m y weeds at 3.5" and its been like every 3 days here since we been getting all this rain and cool weather


#13

F

Freedom1955

4". My front lawn (full sun)does not do well if cut shorter.


#14

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

Freedom1955 said:
4". My front lawn (full sun)does not do well if cut shorter.
Click to expand...

WOW! That is pretty tall! You probably have to cut it pretty often!


#15

P

panabiker

My question is, for the last cut going into winter, how high do you cut? The argument for cutting low is to reduce the chances of developing snow mold. The argument for cutting high is to allow further, deeper root development when the top stops growing because the longer grass causes more photosynthesis.


#16

lawn mower fanatic

lawn mower fanatic

panabiker said:
My question is, for the last cut going into winter, how high do you cut? The argument for cutting low is to reduce the chances of developing snow mold. The argument for cutting high is to allow further, deeper root development when the top stops growing because the longer grass causes more photosynthesis.
Click to expand...

I would say medium because you don't want it too low because when the snow melts (if you have snow) it will get muddy. But not too high because you want it to look good all winter!


#17

C

chn

About this time of year I have been planting seed and fertilizer for customers. Does any one else on here have grub worm problems when thatching old grass out?
I usually cut it short short when I'm seeding and fertilizing. and about the grubs was a curious question by my buddies and I that do lawn care


#18

C

claudedog1234

Dalmatian said:
What height do you cut at? I've heard different things from different people. Some say no less than 3" so that the grass will be able to have and maintain a good root system. Thoughts?
Click to expand...

This article has the specs for cutting heights. Give it a read and I hope it helps. Thanks

How To Start Your Very Own Lawn Care Business On A Shoestring, And Make Huge Profits, While Keeping Your Current Job.


#19

Perry

Perry

Reducing Cutting Heights

I've always been perplexed, nay, amazed at the cutting heights commonly mentioned on here.
Anything over 3 inches I would regard as a field for grazing sheep, rather than a lawn. Where
I live in New Zealand, it never snows on my lawn and I have Hunter irrigation installed, so it
never gets a chance to dry out. And lately, I've decided to lower the cutting height.

As I've been away at critical times, the cutting height has crept up a bit, over the last sum-
mer, because I don't catch the clippings - the area is too big for that - and the amount of
clippings would've been too great, if I'd cut it at the usual mower setting. But the winter
weather is here, growth has slowed and so I've dropped from 3 inches to two and a quarter.
And I plan to go lower, yet.

That's produced the inevitable few bits of yellow turf, as all the photosynthesising leaf area
has been removed. It will 'green up' over time, but it did make me wonder. So here's a question
for all you budding turf agronomists:

When the aim is to shorten the grass length, what's best?

1) Lower the cutting height a notch at time, over an extended period, until the desired height was achieved?

2) Hack the hell out of it at a mower setting a couple of notches below the desired height, then let it grow back to the desired height?

A few potential considerations.

Would the choice of 1 or 2 be influenced by the season, like Spring, Summer or Autumn (Fall)?
Grass species would also be a factor, I suspect. Mine's dominated by dwarfing rye (lolium perenne)
and fescue (festuca rubra fallax). Details here. Cutting height can be as low as 1 inch.

I'm using option (1) for now, but I'm keen to hear other perspectives.

When measuring cutting height, how do you do it? I check it off against a tape, when the
mower is standing on concrete. But when it's going across the lawn, there will be an extra
height margin gained as the mower wheels ride across the actual turf vegetation. How much
extra height would that add to the standing-on-concrete measurement, I wonder? Another
quarter of an inch? More?


#20

exotion

exotion

Perry said:
I've always been perplexed, nay, amazed at the cutting heights commonly mentioned on here.
Anything over 3 inches I would regard as a field for grazing sheep, rather than a lawn. Where
I live in New Zealand, it never snows on my lawn and I have Hunter irrigation installed, so it
never gets a chance to dry out. And lately, I've decided to lower the cutting height.

As I've been away at critical times, the cutting height has crept up a bit, over the last sum-
mer, because I don't catch the clippings - the area is too big for that - and the amount of
clippings would've been too great, if I'd cut it at the usual mower setting. But the winter
weather is here, growth has slowed and so I've dropped from 3 inches to two and a quarter.
And I plan to go lower, yet.

That's produced the inevitable few bits of yellow turf, as all the photosynthesising leaf area
has been removed. It will 'green up' over time, but it did make me wonder. So here's a question
for all you budding turf agronomists:

When the aim is to shorten the grass length, what's best?

1) Lower the cutting height a notch at time, over an extended period, until the desired height was achieved?

2) Hack the hell out of it at a mower setting a couple of notches below the desired height, then let it grow back to the desired height?

A few potential considerations.

Would the choice of 1 or 2 be influenced by the season, like Spring, Summer or Autumn (Fall)?
Grass species would also be a factor, I suspect. Mine's dominated by dwarfing rye (lolium perenne)
and fescue (festuca rubra fallax). Details here. Cutting height can be as low as 1 inch.

I'm using option (1) for now, but I'm keen to hear other perspectives.

When measuring cutting height, how do you do it? I check it off against a tape, when the
mower is standing on concrete. But when it's going across the lawn, there will be an extra
height margin gained as the mower wheels ride across the actual turf vegetation. How much
extra height would that add to the standing-on-concrete measurement, I wonder? Another
quarter of an inch? More?
Click to expand...

Spring and fall I cut lawns as short as I can keep that dam yellow stuff low low. Summer I usually cut 3 in some customers prefer closer to 4.


#21

Perry

Perry

exotion said:
Spring and fall I cut lawns as short as I can keep that dam yellow stuff low low.
Summer I usually cut 3 in some customers prefer closer to 4.
Click to expand...

Do you catch the clippings when you do the short-length cuts?


#22

exotion

exotion

Perry said:
Do you catch the clippings when you do the short-length cuts?
Click to expand...

Yes I always catch clippings in lawns. There are a couple fields I take care of I don't bag but that's it


#23

Ric

Ric

Perry said:
Do you catch the clippings when you do the short-length cuts?
Click to expand...


Personally I never bag grass, it's time consuming and unnecessary if you are cutting your lawn correctly. Remember the one third rule, removing more than one-third of the grass plant when you mow leaves the grass less resistant to disease and the stress of hot summer sun and weather. Clippings left on your lawn will eventually decompose and recycle nutrients back into the soil, it also helps shade the soil, keeping the roots cooler and reducing moisture loss. Remember grass is 75 to 80% water. Leaving the clippings on the lawn also contributes to your fertilization needs. Mow your lawn more often keeping your grass clippings one inch or less in length lets the clippings decompose quickly and will be more beneficial to or for your lawn and besides you can remove one inch of grass twice a week faster than 3 or 4 inches once a week and it's easier on you and the mower.


#24

Perry

Perry

Ric

Do you think you're in the minority or majority? Do many
contractors mow twice a week to avoid bagging all those
clippings? Can the clientele stand that cost? My lawn is
simply too big to consider bagging without a big ride-on
that has a voluminous catcher.

That said, I agree with you. I mow my own lawn twice-a-
week on average. But I'm retired and can afford the time.
Before next Spring, I hope to have a Husqvarana 260/5ACX
automower on the job. I also plan to chronicle the purchase
and installation process/experience elsewhere on this forum.

Returning clippings has - for me - carried another risk. The
incidence of brown patch. But I'm wondering if the cutting
height is implicated in that. What seems to have happened
over the last summer is that the grass has become long
enough to become 'wavy' and lay down. So the blades are
growing sideways some distance, before rising vertically.

I can see that when examining the scuff of my footprint, at
times. It's one of the reasons why I'm trying to drop the
cutting height - to get back to vertical blade development
in the lawn. The newer grass has been more susceptible
than the old part, and the fescue got nailed, but the rye
seemed to recover OK.


#25

Ric

Ric

Perry said:
Ric

Do you think you're in the minority or majority? Do many
contractors mow twice a week to avoid bagging all those
clippings? Can the clientele stand that cost? My lawn is
simply too big to consider bagging without a big ride-on
that has a voluminous catcher.

That said, I agree with you. I mow my own lawn twice-a-
week on average. But I'm retired and can afford the time.
Before next Spring, I hope to have a Husqvarana 260/5ACX
automower on the job. I also plan to chronicle the purchase
and installation process/experience elsewhere on this forum.

Returning clippings has - for me - carried another risk. The
incidence of brown patch. But I'm wondering if the cutting
height is implicated in that. What seems to have happened
over the last summer is that the grass has become long
enough to become 'wavy' and lay down. So the blades are
growing sideways some distance, before rising vertically.

I can see that when examining the scuff of my footprint, at
times. It's one of the reasons why I'm trying to drop the
cutting height - to get back to vertical blade development
in the lawn. The newer grass has been more susceptible
than the old part, and the fescue got nailed, but the rye
seemed to recover OK.
Click to expand...

Do I think I'm in the minority or majority? Probably the minority with the way I think about grass and oil and things of that nature. I guess you could say I'm old school.:smile: I can tell you that when it comes to lawns and My beliefs that I practice what I preach and do cut some of my clients lawns twice a week if it's needed and the second cut is at my expense not the client and yes in that I'm definitely in the minority. The thing is it only takes cutting the lawn every two or three days for a limited time before you get the grass under control then you can mow on a seven day schedule taking off only a third of its length the way it should be done, at that point you'll find your mowing time and finishing time will be faster and easier.

The problems with lawns are the owners a great deal of the time and there practices of up keep causing more harm than good. I have clients who think they have to water there St Augustine 6 days a week, fertilize every to months and you can't convince them that what there doing is nuts and they make the lawn maintenance guys job a whole lot harder than it should be.

Now I know that not everyone can mow lawns more than once a week or would if they could and had the time. All I can tell them is do the research, look at the studies that have been done and find out the correct way, then as my shop teacher told me many years ago you can do it your way or the right way, no skin off my behind either way.


#26

Perry

Perry

Chilly View

Here's a glimpse of what my biggest lawn looks like on a cold and frosty morning. Two pix stitched together, hence the 'fish eye' distortion. The empty pond is obvious.

perry-albums-general-picture14657-park-pan-31-may-2013-e-s.jpg


#27

lawnbarbers

lawnbarbers

Ric said:
Personally I never bag grass, it's time consuming and unnecessary if you are cutting your lawn correctly. Remember the one third rule, removing more than one-third of the grass plant when you mow leaves the grass less resistant to disease and the stress of hot summer sun and weather. Clippings left on your lawn will eventually decompose and recycle nutrients back into the soil, it also helps shade the soil, keeping the roots cooler and reducing moisture loss. Remember grass is 75 to 80% water. Leaving the clippings on the lawn also contributes to your fertilization needs. Mow your lawn more often keeping your grass clippings one inch or less in length lets the clippings decompose quickly and will be more beneficial to or for your lawn and besides you can remove one inch of grass twice a week faster than 3 or 4 inches once a week and it's easier on you and the mower.
Click to expand...

We bag all the time...up here in the north you would just help the weeds to grow by blowing them around.


#28

jimrs

jimrs

Here are a few pictures of my yard back in early March. I cut it at 3" but now at 3 1/2" due to heat.
The sprinklers are running off the waste water treatment we have. No Septic tanks are allowed this close to the lake.

Attachments









#29

S

sgmgarden

Try not to cut it too short, especially when it's hot outside. Cutting your grass too short will just cause more unnecessary problems for you, as it encourages the growth of moss and weeds.


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