Cub Cadet XT1 - Keeps blowing 20 Amp Fuse when trying to start - No Crank No Start - just blowing fuses - SOLVED!!!

[JoeFromRomeo]

I've got a Cub Cadet XT1 LT1 - purchased at Home Depot. It's been a great mower up until now. It won't start or crank - and keeps blowing the 20 Amp fuse that is inline with the starter solenoid. I can jump the starter with a cable from the positive to the starter -- and it will crank then. I replaced the starter solenoid - and it's still doing it. Any help is greatly appreciiated. I haven't done anything with the wiring harness (no add on lights or horns).... I can't find any bare wires rubbing against the frame ... Any help is appreciated.
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SOLVED!!!!
- The problem as a dead short in the headlight wiring.
- Someone said - start unplugging the various circuits - and see if the fuse blows.
- I Unplugged the front head lights - and could start the engine!
- As it turns out the wires had gotten pulled, and bare sections of wire were contacting one another resulting in a Dead Short.


Model #: 13AOA1CS056
Serial #: 18108H40302
-----------------------------------------
Engine:
Kohler 5400 Series
18 HP /541 cc
KS540
SPEC PS-KS540-3011
MOdel KS540-3011

 

[bertsmobile1]

So you have a dead short
Start by disconnecting the rectifier/regulator plug & see what happens
Note the battery can not recharge when you do this so you get 3 to 5 hours of mowing then the battery goes flat and the fuel solenoid closes so the engine stops .

 

[ILENGINE]

The question is does it blow the fuse when the key is turned on or just when it is turned to the start position. Blow when turned on would point toward the regulator or the fuel solenoid. Crank could include all the safety switch wiring on the start circuit.

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

The question is does it blow the fuse when the key is turned on or just when it is turned to the start position. Blow when turned on would point toward the regulator or the fuel solenoid. Crank could include all the safety switch wiring on the start circuit.

The question is does it blow the fuse when the key is turned on or just when it is turned to the start position. Blow when turned on would point toward the regulator or the fuel solenoid. Crank could include all the safety switch wiring on the start circuit.

I WAS mistaken - The Fuse blows when I rotate the ignition switch even to the first setting!! (With or without the rectifier in the circuit - completely removed)

 

[JoeFromRomeo]

So you have a dead short
Start by disconnecting the rectifier/regulator plug & see what happens
Note the battery can not recharge when you do this so you get 3 to 5 hours of mowing then the battery goes flat and the fuel solenoid closes so the engine stops .

I'm not sure where the Rectifier / Regulator is. .....

 

[shadetree#1]

For a logical answer we need the complete model number of your Cub Cadet XT1 tractor and the engine model would also help. (so as we can look at a wiring diagram)model will be something like for example 13AXXXXXXX

Without have the EXACT full model number only thing we can tell you is unplug things and test.
You might have to throw in the towel on this one and take it to a repair shop if you do not have any electrical troubleshooting knowledge or know how to use electrical test instruments.
I have clamp on electrical testers that I can use to immediately monitor DC amps and not ruin fuses instead of just constantly blowing fuses by trial and error.

 

[StarTech]

Fuses are a lot cheaper than wiring harnesses so don't just jumper the fuse holder.

But we do need the model number from the serial number tag of mower and the engine model and spec numbers so we can see what you are dealing with. Otherwise we are blind as to what you have.

And shadetree said you need the knowledge and tools to do the troubleshooting. It can get expensive very fast swapping parts.

 

[shadetree#1]

I've got some extra in-line type automotive fuse holders and sometimes I have to install them in the branch circuits to determine which circuit has the Overload. The 20 amp fuse is the main fuse for all. Installing a fuse with a 5 or 10 amp rating in a overloaded branch circuit will sometimes blow that fuse instead of the main 20 amp and this gives you a heads up as to which BRANCH circuit has the overload. Your OL should be little bit easier to locate since it is instant. the harder ones to locate are the intermittent Over Loads and adding addition branch circuit fuse holders in this case helps locate which circuit has the OL. lAfter all is normal I usually remove the installed branch circuit fuse holders. You can get the in-line fuse holders at a automotive store but are cheaper on-line.
Here is an example of the fuse holders. You have to keep a heads up when buying replacement fuses or fuses for the fuse holders, their are two different blade widths.

https://www.amazon.com/SIM-NAT-Automotive-Standard-Replacement/dp/B07RY8Y2QV/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?adgrpid=1332608658134674&hvadid=83288255971001&hvbmt=be&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=61759&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvtargid=kwd-83288387915682%3Aloc-190&hydadcr=19109_13353472&keywords=automotive+in+line+fuse+holders&qid=1668094342&sr=8-1-spons&psc=1

As StarTech says do not ever jumper out the main 20 amp fuse or install a larger rating or you will let out the smoke and ruin the harness plus other things.

 

[StarTech]

or better yet get some resettable ATC fuses.

https://powerwerx.com/resettable-at...MI1bvtvoCk-wIV4idMCh1Rywk-EAQYASABEgKfJ_D_BwE

 

[shadetree#1]

or better yet get some resettable ATC fuses.

https://powerwerx.com/resettable-at...MI1bvtvoCk-wIV4idMCh1Rywk-EAQYASABEgKfJ_D_BwE

Very good
I seen them manually resettable ones from 5-30 amp in a kit on Amazon prime at a reasonable price with free shipping.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F9KJDWQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1