Cub Cadet with Briggs and Stratton motor

I'll check the intake. I am pretty sure I didn't over torque it but it is a possibility. What is driving me crazy is when it does start to run it runs beautiful but then starts backfiring and stalls and just cranks and cranks and backfires. I've had the thought of the fuel solenoid not controlling the fuel flow or closing and it is allowing too much fuel into the cylinders? I did have to wire that.
 
As a side note in 2019 I did some work for a gentleman that fixed lawnmowers and sold them. I replaced the intake gasket on his pacifica. Anyways he gave me both the riding mowers. Neither ran. They had been sitting for awhile in a field. The troy bilt needed a new starter solenoid and the cub cadet was a new starter. The reason I didn't use the troy bilt as it has the shifter between your legs and the brakes didn't work on it. We like using the foot controls on the cub cadet. I have a 48 in snow blade I hope to use this winter on it.
 
Go to this link and tell us which carb that engine has?
Is it the dual throat 125 or the single throat 125?
Are you saying your Briggs twin NOW idles OK but will not rev up when advancing the throttle?
Really need to know which carb that engine is using??????????

Next thing about your Kohler with the bad crankshaft keyway.
When the tapered shaft is clean and the taper inside the flywheel are both free of oil and TORQUED properly the aluminum key is only used for placement of the flywheel so as the engine is TIMED CORRECTLY.
I've used engines without a ALUMINUM flywheel key by assembling and torqueing the flywheel properly. I've seen where some people (space cadets) even lubed the tapered shaft so as the flywheel could be removed easier next time. (bad idea)
The aluminum key is not to prevent the flywheel from spinning on the crankshaft. You were not cleaning/installing the Kohler flywheel properly is why it's now in bad shape.
 
1. The Kohler broke the keyway when it hit a root and got jammed. First few times I will admit I did not torque it down. When I looked up why it kept breaking I found it needed to be torqued down. Even after doing that it still broke. In the pictures that is how I found the keyway and flywheel when I first took it apart. As far as the carb goes I believe it is a double based on the fuel solenoid that it has. I am not a small engine mechanic. I don't have 20-50 years experience doing this. I can say I do not have the money to take it to a shop or to buy OE stuff.
 
I think I figured out the problem. I'll fill in if I am right. I won't get the keyways for this motor till next week so I'll post probably Wednesday next week
 
Often when the key shears it damages the key ways in the flywheel or the crankshaft
Check carefully and you will probably find a lip on one edge on one of both
These will need to be removed carefully before you replace the key or the flywheel will not be able to lock onto the taper and the key will keep on shearing .
 
We all are getting worn down by these OP's stating they have perfect fuel flow, strong spark, solid compression and tons of air. Still can't get the mower to run????????
 
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