Cub cadet driving me insane!!!

mwrman said:
B&S engines also may have trouble starting to hard to start when valves need to be adjusted.
Can you perform leak-down and compression test? Also what your spark plugs look like?
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That may be a bit outside of my skill level! It had been turning over just fine.
 
ILENGINE said:
I don't know if this is true, but if you were in a dark area and the mower had run more than a few minutes, it isn't unusual for the exhaust manifolds to have a red glow to them. they operate around 700 degrees at full throttle.

If the mower will run with the jumper cables, get us a volt reading with the engine running. Should be around 13.5 at full throttle. I suspect you are below 12. So it that is true that you will need to disconnect the wires going to the voltage regulator, It will be the small box on the opposite side of the engine at the starter. Connect each lead to one of the wires in the double connector, and set the meter to read AC. Should be 28v AC or higher. If that is true then replace the voltage regulator. If the AC voltage is below 28 v then you will need to replace the stator under the flywheel.
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Ok,with the engine running,the volts were like 1 or2. The ac reading at the voltage regulatory was 32. I installed a new regulator jump started it and the battery charged up. I mowed for 15 min and the mower stalled. Turned the key and it would barely turn over,still 12 volts at the battery.jump started it at the starter (starter spins freely) ran for a few minutes and slowly died again! help!
 
Something else we may need to check. disconnect the single wire at the voltage regulator, and check for voltage on the tractor side of the wire, engine doesn't have to be running. We are making sure you are getting battery voltage to the regulator. On some mowers you may need to turn the key on.

If you have charged and discharged the battery several times, it may have damaged the battery, and now won't hold a charge.
 
Below a certain voltage the voltage regulator internal switch will close and will not power be output. I can't remember if it is 6 volts or 9. If you have 12 v across the battery terminals and only 5 volts at the regulator, that will need to be tracked down. If not already done you can hook a wire directly between the voltage regulator and the battery side of the starter solenoid.
 
Sorry it took me so long to respond, my"real job" took me out of town:0( with jumper cables hooked up to the battery, I'm getting 12 volts at the single wire on the voltage regulator
 
I think that I may have found the problem? I jump started it again and let it idle for a couple of minutes. It then just died,and again would barely turn over. The oil pressure light was on also. In the Briggs manual,I read that if the oil pressure drops below 4-6 pounds, a pressure switch will either activate a warning light or stop the engine. Did I screw something up when I changed the crankcase gasket ???
 
That gerotor oil pump system is about bomb proof, so I would say you didn't screw anything up. If it wasn't correct you wouldn't of got the sump back on the engine. When it was running was the jumper cables still connector. If not the voltage could of dropped due to a week battery, and without a certain voltage the voltage regulator will shut down and then it will close the fuel solenoid and kill the engine.
 
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