Cub Cadet 1600 Drive Issue

I noticed the ball the first time I disassembled the rear and have been very conscious of its place. It is definitely seated and producing the pronounced "Click" sound as the shift rod moves through the gears.

So would the bushings be the culprit here? How would I know if they need to be changed or should I just change them anyway? Think I answered my own question there...
 
So after some research on the old version of the rear and the new one it seems the part I am having trouble with was a common replacement which lead to the development of the new design. Considering the cost of a new rear, or to replace all the guts with the new style parts, I think I am going to try and tinker with what I have. There is a washer behind the forward gear and I beleive that by replaceing it with a slightly thicker washer I could delay the inevitable solution of full replacement. Also If I can get the collar off I'd like to grind down the studs a bit and weld a washer on the end to reprofile them. That is if the bushing and thicker washer doesnt resolve it first.

I cannot seem to find anything listed as a bushing though. Are you referring to these?

https://www.amazon.com/MTD-941-0336-Flange-Bearing/dp/B005UAXWQ4

Also what grease would I use to replace what is in the rear?
 
sypherz28 said:
So after some research on the old version of the rear and the new one it seems the part I am having trouble with was a common replacement which lead to the development of the new design. Considering the cost of a new rear, or to replace all the guts with the new style parts, I think I am going to try and tinker with what I have. There is a washer behind the forward gear and I beleive that by replaceing it with a slightly thicker washer I could delay the inevitable solution of full replacement. Also If I can get the collar off I'd like to grind down the studs a bit and weld a washer on the end to reprofile them. That is if the bushing and thicker washer doesnt resolve it first.

I cannot seem to find anything listed as a bushing though. Are you referring to these?

https://www.amazon.com/MTD-941-0336-Flange-Bearing/dp/B005UAXWQ4

Also what grease would I use to replace what is in the rear?
Click to expand...

Yep,
Thems look like the animals.
First one I pulled down it was suggested I replace both and I sent the new parts back cause they were the same size & the mower clearly has a thinner flange on the drive side .
One of those Duh moments.
Just be careful there was a person doing a similar box a while back & they found the new bushes were too thick and caused the shaft to bind when bolted up.
I use tractor gearbox 00 lithium grease in all of these transaxels.
If it is good enough for a bull gear on a 10 ton field tractor it is good enough for a 1/10 ton lawn tractor.
Being thinner it flows better inside the casings and takes a lot longer to cake up.
Most of the ones I take apart, the grease is dry, so the shafts are dry & badly worn.
The thinner grease not cushion the dogs as much as the heavy grease, but if you remember to stop before you change and to take your foot off the brake as you do so the dogs have some wiggle space it should not make any difference .
Down side is it does tend to leak a little through the axels but most can live with that till they invent white grass.
 
Well, seems I damaged the clutch while trying to remove it. The blades aren't engaging anymore. Any special work that can be done on one of these before I chalk it up as an expensive mistake?
 
The wires break off just where they go in to the clutch itself.
A common problem caused by the copper wires work hardening due to vibrations.
 
Sounds repairable to me! Once I can get the blades spinning again ill order the flange bearings and some grease. If I can talk my wife into spending some time in the garage with me i'll get her to take pictures for a how-to.
 
sypherz28 said:
Sounds repairable to me! Once I can get the blades spinning again ill order the flange bearings and some grease. If I can talk my wife into spending some time in the garage with me i'll get her to take pictures for a how-to.
Click to expand...

Carefully cut the insulation back from the end and look for a broken wire.
Resist the temptation to solder.
Screw in a small self tapper and fit eye terminal to both wires.
Do one at a time and mark the clutch + & - as some are polarity sensitive .
Get some liquid electrical tape and smother the connections when you have finished.
Give them 4 or 5 heavy coats then find a spot for a cable tie to hold the wires very tight onto the clutch.
A repair I do once or twice a season that I pinched off Taryl Fixes All.
Prior to that I soldered and all 4 of the soldered repairs failed within 3 years
 
Seems something else failed on the clutch because the whole circuit is dead. Waiting for payday to order a new one with the flange bearings. C'est la vie.

Another thing that bothers me is the height of the blades. It has 6 positions and anything below 5 just scalps the ground. I thought it may have been an adjustment but there aren't any for deck height. When It is at its top position the lifting arm is touching the frame. When its at 3 or lower it's resting on the ground. I assumed the tires were the wrong size but they arent. Do you think it would hurt anything to just get taller tires? Any other tricks I am missing?
 
sypherz28 said:
Seems something else failed on the clutch because the whole circuit is dead. Waiting for payday to order a new one with the flange bearings. C'est la vie.

Another thing that bothers me is the height of the blades. It has 6 positions and anything below 5 just scalps the ground. I thought it may have been an adjustment but there aren't any for deck height. When It is at its top position the lifting arm is touching the frame. When its at 3 or lower it's resting on the ground. I assumed the tires were the wrong size but they arent. Do you think it would hurt anything to just get taller tires? Any other tricks I am missing?
Click to expand...

Try energising the clutch with some jumpers.
They are expensive and it there is a wiring problem you have just wasted a lot of beer money.
Double check the wires on the mower side.
I use an old headlamp as a test light to put a reasonable current draw just in case a terminal is hanging by one strand.

As for blade height, have you adjusted the front drag links ?
they wear which allows the front to drop and the back to raise so it bottoms out on the underside of the mower.
You should have about 1/2" height difference front to back.
Check by turning the blade strait ahead and check both blades as of there is a little difference left to right.
 
I energized it off the battery with jumpers I made. I confirmed with a multimeter that the circuit is open somewhere. I drove screws down as deep as I reasonably could hoping that maybe the break is just deep down but nothing worked.

honestly didn't notice any adjustments on the front. ill check that out.
 
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