Craftsman t2500 deck mandrel 587819701 / 187292 questions

[Florida]

Hello all, been searching the forums and found tons of great info getting me closer to my answer.
My 2017 craftsman (917.255830) is in good shape but I thought it may be wise to have some spare mandrel bearings on hand after using it for the past years.
Is replacing the bearings in the mandrel a reasonable idea? Instead of buying an entire complete mandrel assembly?

I've been trying to track down the bearing specs / P#s but I can't find the bottom bearing listed except when sold with the mandrel shaft.
Here are the current parts and cross referenced numbers I could find:
Non-electric PTO
Deck (46" Mower Complete Assy.): 583477401, 432250
Mandrel complete assy.: 587253301
Mandrel housing: 187281
Mandrel top bearing: 585323901
Mandrel shaft (w/ bottom bearing): 587256501

I did manage to find one website store that mentioned bearings for their assembly which looked like it may be the same as mine, they listed the bearings as:
TOP: 6203-2RS
BOTTOM: 6204-2RS

I figured i'd look around/ask online before tearing down and inspecting the bearings for markings.
Will update.
Cheers fellas!

 

[StarTech]

If you use the standard 6203-2RS bearings you will need the 532187690 spacer washer (ring) as the top bearing from Husqvarna now has this built-in their bearings. Also spindle shaft (mandrel) is the non grease-able version which Sears is pushing the non grease-able spindle assemblies. If you want the grease-able version then you need the complete 587820301 spindle assy which retails for $33 through your Husqvarna dealer. Also if are just replacing the bearing in the grease-able version remove the inner bearing seals.

Also you will need a bearing separator to remove the lower bearing.

 

[Florida]

Thanks for the input StarTech. Priced out the 4 bearings SKF is retailing around 34. I imagine the greaseable genuine husqvarna mandrels may out last a sealed bearing to make it worth the extra money?
Also thank you for heads up on needing separator. I wouldn't mind an extra tool but I assumed it was possible to just use drift and pop them out carefully (maybe that isn't a best practice?)

 

[StarTech]

Thanks for the input StarTech. Priced out the 4 bearings SKF is retailing around 34. I imagine the greaseable genuine husqvarna mandrels may out last a sealed bearing to make it worth the extra money?
Also thank you for heads up on needing separator. I wouldn't mind an extra tool but I assumed it was possible to just use drift and pop them out carefully (maybe that isn't a best practice?)

Here both the greaseable and non greaseable spindles are the same price.

The reason for the separator is the metal shield plus the lower bearing is press fit and it will needto be pulled at least the width of bearing to get it off. HFT has a set for $50. I have use mine enough that I had to replace the clamping studs due to some hard pulls.

Also a piece of advice. Don't remove the spindles from the deck unless you are ready to replace them as the mounting screws tends to break off on one that have been installed a good amount of time.

 

[Florida]

Ah yes just noticed the shield, If I was to replace the bearings could I not do the following?
with spindles attached to deck
1) block blade
2) remove pulley nut, pulley, spacer (if applicable)
3) remove blade
4) thread on pulley nut to prevent deformation, block sides of bottom bearing, drive out shaft
5) drift out top & bot bearing
6) drift in new bearings
7) drive in old shaft from bottom etc
Or am I missing something again?

Since my spindles/shaft/pulley are all in perfect shape I assumed that replacing bearings would be ideal.
I'm not opposed to new mandrel assys if they're the smarter choice, though.
Aye, i've had that experience with those bolts breaking on previous deck, was going to do it in situ if possible.

Thanks again for your time and insight, StarTech.

 

[StarTech]

The shield is pressed fitted to the shaft. Once it is loosen it will just stay loose unless you reshape it and press it back on. Otherwise the removal of the shaft usually take a 2# brass hammer here as a rubber mallet just don't work on the stuck in lower bearing which usually stays on the shaft as it comes out. Keeping the nut on the shaft does prevent flaring and thread damage as does the brass hammer. But even a brass hammer can still damage the threads otherwise. Of course the nut has to be removed to get the shaft out later once the shaft is nearly out. Now the top bearing will also need to driven out carefully as not the deform the spindle housing.

As for breaking the spindle screws I just recently had to drill out 18 broken bolts on a Toro commercial mower where the owner removed the spindles breaking all of the bolts. A real pain to keep as close to original location since they are use tri - lobed self tapping screws.

Now I got to pull a Honda engine from Hustler ZTR for rebuild since the owner has had to run it without oil. Oh what a fun day it is going to be as this is my first HOnda V twin teardown without the service manual. At least it looks like most of the rain is over until nightfall.

 

[Florida]

Thanks for breaking it down for me StarTech. Good advice in regards to not deforming mandrel during job.
When you suggested I use a bearing splitter for the job, is the picture attached the type of kit you were talking about?

Sounds like a hell of a job on the toro. I assume there is an engineering or safety reason as to why they use self tappers for the spindles instead of the proper grade bolt/nut/lock nut/thread sealant to avoid the bolt breaking problem? Or do they select self tappers because the bean counters want to save a few pennies?

 

[StarTech]

Yelp that the separator I am referring to.

And yes it is the bean counters at play along the robotic workers.

 

[bertsmobile1]

Thanks for breaking it down for me StarTech. Good advice in regards to not deforming mandrel during job.
When you suggested I use a bearing splitter for the job, is the picture attached the type of kit you were talking about?

Sounds like a hell of a job on the toro. I assume there is an engineering or safety reason as to why they use self tappers for the spindles instead of the proper grade bolt/nut/lock nut/thread sealant to avoid the bolt breaking problem? Or do they select self tappers because the bean counters want to save a few pennies?

Ultimately it is the cheapness of the purchaser
People will not pay a reasonable price for just about anything now days and the shop with a mower that is 50¢ cheaper will get 500 more sales.
Thus the cost cutting has to be done somewhere.
A self tapper is a very quick one man job and requires 4 less parts ( actually 8 including the washers
Even better is a custom tool which does all 4 self tappers in one hit .
Followed by the robotic arm that places the mandrel then does all 4 self tappers in one operation.