Craftsman LT2000 2013 with Briggs 331977-0008 Intek 540cc engine, carburetor pulsating

[Auto Doc's]

Fuel flow looks good from the line, make sure to check the carb fuel inlet nipple and float seat are for any trash lodge in them. It only takes a small flake of debris to create headaches when it comes to carburetors.

I noticed the idle air screw has not been removed (Black restrictor cap on the side). Take a pair of side cutters and cut down alongside that black cap. Get the cap off and carefully screw the metal needle inward to count how many turns until it stops lightly.

Then remove it and blow through the passage and make sure it is cleared out. Install the needle fully seated and count the turns to get it back close to the original adjustment setting that you counted earlier

Once everything is cleaned and dried, reassemble it and see what happens. You may have to adjust the needle out or in slightly, but it should run much better without all the surging up and down.

 

[1chris1]

I'd highly recommend replacing that bowl gasket and little O ring, if they fail, they will overflow your carburetor
Briggs and Stratton 698781

Thanks for the part number, I'm going to order new seals and keep the carburetor. The little o-ring still holds for now, it got pinched when I left it up in the metal assembly. I then ran it like that immediately after, and the pulsating in that video was identical to what it was doing 3 years ago. The next morning there was a small puddle of gas underneath the air elbow as I also forgot to reconnect the small tube that goes from the engine straight to the bottom of the air tube. (I probably wouldn't have noticed it otherwise). I cleaned the air tube really good, reassembled the carburetor & it has never flooded again. Trouble is right after that first run it won't start again. So I am starting again at square one tomorrow with the air intake elbow off, but I have a feeling I might have engine trouble at this point.

 

[1chris1]

Fuel flow looks good from the line, make sure to check the carb fuel inlet nipple and float seat are for any trash lodge in them. It only takes a small flake of debris to create headaches when it comes to carburetors.

I noticed the idle air screw has not been removed (Black restrictor cap on the side). Take a pair of side cutters and cut down alongside that black cap. Get the cap off and carefully screw the metal needle inward to count how many turns until it stops lightly.

Then remove it and blow through the passage and make sure it is cleared out. Install the needle fully seated and count the turns to get it back close to the original adjustment setting that you counted earlier

Once everything is cleaned and dried, reassemble it and see what happens. You may have to adjust the needle out or in slightly, but it should run much better without all the surging up and down.

Someone told me to do take the black cap off and clean under there on TractorForum, I didn't understand the whole procedure with the adjustment screw -- thanks again for the detailed, step by step instructions as it is really helpful for newbies like me. I'll start there tomorrow and report back if I can get it running again or not.

 

[1chris1]

I got the black plastic part off the adjustment screw, it turns in about 1 whole turn and 14 out from there. I sprayed through that passage with carb & choke spray, which looks clean now. It is the top right little hole in the second picture. I'm going to reassemble it and see how it runs.

 

[1chris1]

I tried to start it up again this evening, but no luck. Back to square one: took carburetor apart again and sprayed everything out, it looks as clean as a whistle. Tested solenoid with 9V battery, still pulls in OK. I did try choking the air tube with the filter off, it didn't make a difference. Also tried backing out adjustment screw on carburetor one full turn. It acts like it is not igniting the fuel, since I know it's reaching the engine after I started it on the first try. I think it may be time to check the ignition coil, so I will buy an inline spark tester tomorrow.

 

[slomo]

Nikki strikes again. Forget it guy. A carb sitting for 3 years needs to be boiled clean several times. Even then it might not run good. I would get a Walbro replacement Chinese carb. Hate to recommend non OEM parts but a Nikki is a POS. Tried couple times with OEM Briggs parts. Never ran right. Those gaskets are stamped rubber and didn't line up.

 

[1chris1]

Nikki strikes again. Forget it guy. A carb sitting for 3 years needs to be boiled clean several times. Even then it might not run good. I would get a Walbro replacement Chinese carb. Hate to recommend non OEM parts but a Nikki is a POS. Tried couple times with OEM Briggs parts. Never ran right. Those gaskets are stamped rubber and didn't line up.

I ordered an aftermarket rebuild kit and carb solenoid, should have just bought a whole new carb as you recommended. I wanted to put the same as what it had in (Nikki OEM), but the prices are way too high.

My solenoid feels squishy and slow like there is liquid in the core, and it doesn't always click when it moves. I charged my battery up to 100% and it still isn't starting, I also haven't checked the ignition coil yet.

 

[slomo]

My solenoid feels squishy and slow like there is liquid in the core, and it doesn't always click when it moves.

One can snip the after fire solenoid plunger off. Install an inline fuel shutoff valve. Close it a minute before shutting the engine down. Never have to worry about it "not" starting again.