Craftsman Leaf Blower won't start

[6010fd12]

Found a thrown out leaf blower and decided to try and restore it. Model# 358.794764
I don't have much experience working on small engines and this is for sure my first time owning a two stroke engine. It turns over fine but feels like it has weak compression (imo). I double checked with a gauge and here is what I got.
First Try
Second Try

I have replaced the spark plug and the carburetor as well as put some new fuel/oil mix in. While changing the carb I noticed that the fuel filter was either clogged or not tight enough on the hose because priming the bulb would not suck fuel in. So I replaced it and that allowed me to prime the carb.
I tried to turn the engine over and still nothing. I looked in the cylinder again and I noticed there is some type of muddy liquid(dirty water?) inside. I cleaned it off by sticking a towel inside but after turning it over again the liquid reappeared.

I had some more time this weekend to look over the engine and I found another problem with it. The cylinder head was unattached from the crankcase.

This probably explained the lack of compression that I felt and explains the muddy liquid. I took apart the head and tossed it in the ultrasonic cleaner. I replaced the piston ring and a couple of the gaskets by the head and carb. There was still that liquid resting in the bottom of the crank case so I tried to pour out as much as I could before reassembling the engine.

I poured a bit of 2 stroke mix into the cylinder and this time the engine actually ran for a couple of seconds before dying. I repeated this a couple of times but it seems like it either won't suck fuel in or maybe there is still water at the bottom of the crankcase. Any ideas?

 

[ILENGINE]

90-100 is about the minimum for that engine. Sounds like you still have a fuel problem. What did the cylinder walls look like when you had the cylinder off. And the cylinder coming loose was a common issue on the older ryobi, yard machine, yardman, trimmers and blowers with that style engine.

 

[6010fd12]

90-100 is about the minimum for that engine. Sounds like you still have a fuel problem. What did the cylinder walls look like when you had the cylinder off. And the cylinder coming loose was a common issue on the older ryobi, yard machine, yardman, trimmers and blowers with that style engine.

Here is a picture of the cylinder walls.

https://imgur.com/a/A1MpORU

Right now I think I got it to start with the choke on but after running for maybe 10 seconds it gets slower and slower then dies out.

I can get it to start immediately afterwards by pulling the cord but after that it only starts on for another 3 seconds then dies out.

I also forgot to ask. I blew out the old oil/liquid at the bottom of the crankcase. Should I fill it up with a bit of premixed or leave it as it is?

https://imgur.com/a/VIcKHXZ

The new ring has damage in the same spot as the old one.

https://imgur.com/a/Y1BmNie

 

[ILENGINE]

The cylinder is scored about the exhaust port and the piston is scored/galled along the intake port of the cylinder along with ring damage. the engine has enough compression to start since the extra fuel/oil is sealing the ring to the cylinder wall until it starts and burns off the fuel, and then the compression drops below the level it will run at.

Either going to have to replace the piston/ring and cylinder assembly or toss the whole thing.

 

[6010fd12]

The cylinder is scored about the exhaust port and the piston is scored/galled along the intake port of the cylinder along with ring damage. the engine has enough compression to start since the extra fuel/oil is sealing the ring to the cylinder wall until it starts and burns off the fuel, and then the compression drops below the level it will run at.

Either going to have to replace the piston/ring and cylinder assembly or toss the whole thing.

Dam I was really hoping that wouldn't be the case. I took the head off again and poured a small amount of oil mix in the crankcase and on the cylinder walls. I also replaced the intake fuel hose with a new one since it still kept feeling like the carb wasn't getting enough gas. I put it together and let it run until the excess oil burned off but now I have another problem. I can get the engine to start consistently but even after it's warmed up as soon as I apply any throttle with or without the air filter it dies right away. Is there maybe an idle screw I can adjust or is this just a contributing factor of the cylinder gouge?
Here's a vid.

 

[bertsmobile1]

The first thing you do with street finds is pull the muffler and check the cylinder walls for scoring.
Scoring happens because the owner has run the engine without an air filter or more commonly on strait fuel.

Domestic ( really cheaply built ) 2 strokes have only 1 piston ring and it does a massive amount of work as it has to seal in both directions.

If that was a new ring, it is toast now so toss it
If you want to persist with this engine you will need to clan all of the carbon deposits off the exhaust port.
Then you need to get inside the cylinder and remove all of the little nicks & burrs around the exhaust port till it is dead smooth
Use a flap wheel with the finest paper you can find or a buffing wheel and polishing paste
This is a very fiddley job because it you under cut the port you will loose the seal between the cylinder & the ring.

Once you have cleaned up the bore then you need to look at the pressure tightness of the entire fuel system.
The fuel tank & the carb run at around 5 to 10 psi.
If they can not maintain these pressures then the carb can not keep up with the engine.
The tank pressure is the same as a lift pump in a deisel or those old outboard motor engines that you had to pump up the fuel tank to get them to run.

 

[6010fd12]

Ok so I just wanted to give everyone an update. I found out why the engine dies when the choke is off. My idle screw was not set. I adjusted that and my high and low screws and it runs and idles like a dream now.

My only concern now is that if you hold it at full throttle for maybe around 10 seconds you start to hear a metal clinking sound that goes away when the engine is idling. I've read that it could possibly be a bearing but I'm unsure.