Craftsman head gasket issue?

Rivets said:
If you are a little mechanically savvy, you should be able to replace the gasket yourself. Less that an afternoon job. Post your engine numbers and I'll find you a service manual and get a list of parts you will need. I'm pretty busy, but I'll get back to you ASAP.
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18.5 B&S OHV Intek plus Model# 31P777 0348E1 04100 42D

Thanks - Rick
 
I have better luck just using the engine number stamped on the valve cover. With that model number and serial number, just search B&S engine for proper parts needed.

Head gasket
spark plug
valve cover gasket
exhaust gasket
intake gasket
 
part number 794152 valve overhaul gasket set, includes the head gasket, exhaust gasket, intake gasket, valve stem seal, and the valve cover gasket.
 
tigercat said:
I have better luck just using the engine number stamped on the valve cover. With that model number and serial number, just search B&S engine for proper parts needed.

Head gasket
spark plug
valve cover gasket
exhaust gasket
intake gasket
Click to expand...

I checked out the YouTube video you sent and it is a great step by step. The valve adjustment is the only only thing that concerns me. Turn the crank 1/4 turn and then use the feeler gauge? Does not seem like an exact science.
I need to find the head torque setting and the valve settings. The YouTube said .003 and .004 for the valves?

Also, I guess you do not use gasket seal on the head gasket? Thanks - Rick
 
Rickcin said:
I checked out the YouTube video you sent and it is a great step by step. The valve adjustment is the only only thing that concerns me. Turn the crank 1/4 turn and then use the feeler gauge? Does not seem like an exact science.
I need to find the head torque setting and the valve settings. The YouTube said .003 and .004 for the valves?

Also, I guess you do not use gasket seal on the head gasket? Thanks - Rick
Click to expand...

The B&S manual says once you reach top dead ceter, rotate engine clockwise, as you watch the piston drop 1/4". I don't rotate flywheel 1/4", maybe it works the same, I never checked.

Correct, no thread sealant anywhere, but on the valve cover. Sometimes they leak oil and it will smoke up on the muffler.

I need the "model series" of the engine for exact valve clearance specs. Normally they are around .003-.006 where the exhaust side will be larger by .001

I don't think the specs are too critical. It will run or not. If it don't turn over by hand easily, then you have something wrong. Head spec torque is important as well as the pattern to tighten it up. If you bend the head as you tighten it up, or strip a thread your screwed.
Torque tightness is 220 inch pounds
First step is 75 in lbs, then redo at 150 in lbs then final torque @ 220 in pounds. You need to follow the bolt pattern on the 8 head bolts.
Pattern is this as I will try in type what the pattern is....

1st bolt .... 6 oclock
2nd bolt .... 12 oclock
3rd bolt .... 7 oclock
4th bolt .... 1 oclock
5th bolt .... 11 oclock
6th bolt .... 8 oclock
7th bolt .... 5 oclock
8th bolt .... 9 oclock
 
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In the manual are the exact valve clearances you will need. Torque pattern should also be in the manual. Also, the torque specs given by tigercat are dry torque, meaning do not use any lube or antisieze.
 
tigercat said:
The B&S manual says once you reach top dead ceter, rotate engine clockwise, as you watch the piston drop 1/4". I don't rotate flywheel 1/4", maybe it works the same, I never checked.

Correct, no thread sealant anywhere, but on the valve cover. Sometimes they leak oil and it will smoke up on the muffler.

I need the "model series" of the engine for exact valve clearance specs. Normally they are around .003-.006 where the exhaust side will be larger by .001

I don't think the specs are too critical. It will run or not. If it don't turn over by hand easily, then you have something wrong. Head spec torque is important as well as the pattern to tighten it up. If you bend the head as you tighten it up, or strip a thread your screwed.
Torque tightness is 220 inch pounds
First step is 75 in lbs, then redo at 150 in lbs then final torque @ 220 in pounds. You need to follow the bolt pattern on the 8 head bolts.
Pattern is this as I will try in type what the pattern is....

1st bolt .... 6 oclock
2nd bolt .... 12 oclock
3rd bolt .... 7 oclock
4th bolt .... 1 oclock
5th bolt .... 11 oclock
6th bolt .... 8 oclock
7th bolt .... 5 oclock
8th bolt .... 9 oclock
Click to expand...

Wow, this is all great information!! Everthing I need to know, now I just need to order the parts and do it! Ironic that the youtube video mechanic turns the flywheel 1/ 4 turn and your research said to drop the piston 1/4 inch. That would be easier since I could measure and mark the flywheel when the head is off to excatly locate the 1/4 inch.

Thanks again, between you and Rivets, I will attempt the repair!!
 
Rickcin said:
That would be easier since I could measure and mark the flywheel when the head is off to excatly locate the 1/4 inch.
Click to expand...

Works well as long as you make sure the piston is TDC on the compression stroke before you remove the head. After the head is removed you no longer have the rocker lever positions for reference.
 
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